dexter72
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Posts posted by dexter72
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Read the Turbo Faq ok. You will learn alot from what others have done and experienced, before you.
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If it were me I would sell that ball bearing turbo and for what its worth, possibly buy 2 turbos. One for each of your builds. I would upgrade the zx stock turbo to a 50 or 60 trim t3/t4. Just decide what stage wheel you want in that one.
Did you read the faq's in the turbo section yet?. They show good options for turbo sizes. You can then up the boost to 10, 15, or 20 usable psi and enjoy. Running a z or zx turbo at 15 to 25psi on the street, is a lot of fun.
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The block is stamped for what size engine it is so look for which block is in the car. Nothing is wrong with an NA L28 engine fitted with turbo parts. Thats what im running.
Have you decided what your going to do with your harness yet?.
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Look in the turbo section and see what size turbos most people are using. It seems to be a pretty big turbo, maybe you can take it somewhere and have them make it smaller. Or you may need to build your engine up to perform in the rpm range, to use that turbo. But check and see first and see what others have to say about it.
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Have you thought about buying a megasquirt box and getting the efi harness for the megasquirt?. By the looks of the harness pics you posted, I see electrical gremlins just waiting to pounce. I would seriously look into doing that. You can find used megasquirt setups for under $400.00 bucks.
If you can't go that route, buy new injector harness connectors and sensor connectors. 12 gauge wire and run new wires into the cars harness. Doing that has to be better then trying to save that harness, its rough.
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It's cool that you got your car back.
I have a couple of questions for you to.
Does the car still have the fuel tank stup you made for it?.
Are you going to leave the paint and body as it is in the pic?. I'm kind of liking the rat rod look, Body and paint left alone. Drive train and suspension updated.
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The gasket could have broken off or the manifold could be starting to warp at #1. I would definately pull the valve cover again just to make sure the valve adjustment is correct on #1 cylinder.
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I would definately look into trying another carb, do you have another?. Or maybe a friend will let you swap his, with yours to see for sure. Is this a vacuum secondary carb?.
Check for vacuum leaks all over the intake, engine, and brake booster hose.
What ignition and distributor are you using?.
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Did you check the screen in the fuel pump?. If it has some of the rust particles caught in the screen that is the problem. To help filter the rust from the tank, Try adding one of those glass inline fuel filters in the line before the pump. That way you can catch and see everything that is coming out of the tank. Should keep the pump screens from getting clogged up also.
But i also had something in my tank that would only let my engine rev to 3000rpm. I pulled the drain plug from my tank and fuel only trickled out of it. I blew compressed air into the drain plug hole and after that fuel came gushing out of the hole. After draining the tank i used a magnet and got the rust out of the tank. Engine revved normally after doing that.
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I would use larger injectors for your project, 440cc or higher. Personally I don't think you will need to add the 7th injector. With megasquirt you can use either low impedence or high impedence injectors. Use whichever injectors you can find at a good price. Besides reading up on the megamanual to understand what you need to do. You have to change your megasquirt settings depending on which impedence injector you choose. I would also look up which upgraded injectors will work with your stock manifold in the faq's. There are plenty of options.
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Was the swap already done when you bought the car or are you swapping it?.
Besides the harness for the ecu, the ignition harness should be part of the efi harness. You can run new wires from the igntion switch and fuse box to operate the fuel pump and starter if desired.
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Sorry for the bad news.
After you get everything handled insurance wise and you buy the car back. Transfer its heart and vital organs into another S30 body.
A lot of work but worth it in the end.Iconic 73 240Z, A car barely alive, we can rebuild her. The $2 Thousand Dollar Z.
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Congratulations to you and your car.
Red has to be the best looking color on a z.
I'm biased because mine is red too. Maybe the writer should have left a card on your car saying he was doing a write up on it. He could have included more info about it also. Nice story and comments.
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If you haven't done so try a stereo shop. napa or a bap auto parts store. If not maybe run a new wire and terminal from one you cut from a harness.
You can going to a nissan dealership and try the parts dept. Service techs have a box with electrical terminal ends in it, they use terminals from that box to run new wires. Just bring your terminal with you to match it up, when checking on the part.
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Have you checked the Battery, voltage regulator Alternator and or charging system?. If it does this as often as you say, a voltage test may help tell you whats going on. Make sure all the connections are clean of corrosion and tight.
I would start with those and then get back to us with your results.
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You can use Megasquirt 2 or 3. You should decide if your going to build it yourself or buy one already assembled.
Not really plug and play because each persons setup can or will be different. Also depends on what your using for ignition. EDIS, Coil on plug, Turbo Dist.
You can copy maps from the map sharing sticky. Pick a setup that is similar to what your using in your car, copy a map and start tuning from there. It's supposed to give you a head start to get your engine running and possibly driving.
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ENgine needs to crank over first, Needs air, fuel, and spark next. See if you can get a discount on it, if you help him diag whats wrong.
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Enjoy, Tuning is fun. Wait till you get it real close.
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Your not going to get major tire wear from accelerating or decelerating.
Looks like the tires are wearing from hard cornering / making fast turns, As was said previously. 40-50k on tires is a good amount of mileage. I think your seeing a major problem with your tires when it is a normal condition. I would recommend taking corners, off ramps and so on at slower speeds. Keep the tires inflated at proper levels, have the front end alignment done once a year. Make sure who does your alignments, gives you a copy of the alignment after it has been performed.
I have seen full sized trucks wear tires in 15k miles just from taking corners and off ramps at fast speeds. The tire actually tries to peel itself off the rim, becomes choppy, and or will wear smooth on the edges.
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I would start by checking all the engine sensors and connections. If the connector terminals are green they are corroded, Clean all the connections.
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If you have a boost gauge that is about the same size as the clock. You can use the clock housing and mount your boost gauge, into the clock housing. Then install it just like you would a normal Z gauge.
I think there is a writeup on here about it, I used that write up as a reference. Look for boost gauge in the clock location.
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Yeah I was a bit shocked they sell for that much, I sold one for that price. The guy was happy to get it, I was happier that I still had my old 3.9 diff, that put the finned cover on. lol
The finned cover almost covered the price I paid for both 2.7 diffs.
) Tamo3, Yes I was Lucky as can be. I was only hoping to get the one diff I saw, first thing the next morning. I couldn't believe the other 300ZX had a CLSD in it also. I have never found one since i got those two, almost 5 years ago. Seems I usd up all my CLSD Luck with those.
But I'm not hating. lol -
The Suspension will not bolt up to the earlier Z.
I like the early z suspension better anway.
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Multi post Sorry Guys.
A lot of work but worth it in the end.
I'm biased because mine is red too. 
Early 260z L28et swap wiring issues
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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Yes or find a switched 12v wire at the fuse box, might be a cleaner looking install.