Z8

I have a Stealth on mine. It was recommended by CNC Power Heads out of California. He stated that on a built engine it flowed better than the Performer RPM. This was based on their heads, which have oversized valves, ported and polished. I have no reference to the Performer-I took the head builders advice.

Thanks TomoHawk, I've seen prewired setups before. They typically run $50.00 or so. I bought a push button for $7.99 and a toggle switch for another $7.00. I think I have it figured out on the ignition side. The ignition toggle will provide juice to the button and the MSD module. I think I can rewire the factory headlight/wiper/washer switch and the turn signal/horn switch with the new wiring. The rest I'll put on switches and relays. If you see any smoke rising from Columbusthis weekend- it's me

Seperate circuits/switches may be the way I go, I have to fab a new dash center and console anyway. I also found some switches that would look great lined up. A battery disconnect is part of my "secruity system", it has a key thats removable only when the system is off. Thanks for your input.

A group buy sounds like a good idea, and we have local support! If this takes shape I have a parts list put together already.

I have thought of putting each circuit on its own switch, but that's alot of individual switches. I was hoping to hit one switch to put power to the starter, interior lights, wipers/washer pump, etc. Sort of like the factory combination switch that triggers the accessorys along with the starter. But I'm not confident enough to just run the wires and see if it works, I would hate to fry my new MSD, or the new starter or set fire to the new wiring or ??

A momentary switch wired between your ignition switch and starter would do the trick. My challenge is that I'm rewiring the whole car and not splicing into an existing harness. In my case I don't know what circuits I should wire to the toggle switch, if I get a few of 20 amp circuits on it should I do a relay? For that matter should I put a relay on the momentary switch? it will be conducting alot of juice to the starter. Hopefully someone will see this thread that has some experience.

A toggle ignition switch will put power to the starter button. Security will be a hidden switch that cuts power to the ignition toggle. Plus with locked doors and nothing labeled the casual thief will be detered. I also know that if someone is a pro and really wants to steal your car, there's nothing you can do about it. I don't know if all accessory lines should go to the toggle or if I need a relay, etc.

I am completely rewiring my 240. I have a American Autowire set up and the switches that came with it are butt ugly. I'd like to install a push button start with a toggle ignition switch, a search turned up some hits but the only wiring help was on splicing it into a Miata harness. Can anyone help me wire this up right? Thanks!

I found grit around the perimeter of the bearing, but it could have been deposited there as I withdrew the stub axle.

Thanks Pete, I see that the outer bearing has a seal incorporated. But I found alot of grit inside and wondered if it was missing one.

I don't see a seal in the shop manual or in the Motorsports catalog for a rear stub axle seal for the wheel side. There is one for the differental side, but not a "inner" and an "outer" seal. The ones I took apart did not have one, but also had alot of grit in the bearing area? Anyone take a rear stub axle out lately?

On the Porsche concept, a 944 turbo (internally known as a 951) is an outstanding high speed chassis. Renagade Hybrids make a adapter plate and mounts to bolt in a Chevy V8. I don't know about Ford engines, but if it can be done with the Chevy they can do it with the Ford.

'70 240- Engine dynoed at 393hp & 400 ftlbs. Installed and backed up by modified C4 with a rachet shifter. Full Ground Control suspn. set up with adjustable everything, 3pc. Revolution rims 9" & 9.5". Been running it but have it back up in the air getting a complete car rewire with all new gauges and Wilwood 12.2" rotor and 4 piston brake upgrade. Will be out hunting again in the spring.

Yahoo!, I know it feels good! Congrats!

In my opinion, and experience (for whatever that's worth) in "real world" conditions and outside of wide variations in specifications, the only significant difference is the 35 lbs. of weight. A good iron head can make great horsepower and hold a high compression same for a good aluminum head. There are differences of course, but an iron head that has been ported, flowed, good valve train, etc. will make all the HP you need. I've built engines both ways.

I had the same problem, even with my adjustable suspn. on max height. I solved it by going with a dual side exhaust with a crossover pipe. Extreme solution perhaps, but I wanted retro anyway and I now have good clearance on the street and can get it seriously low for auto-x and track days.

Actually it might be easier than you think depending on your definition of "mid-engine". Technically that means an engine thats located between the front and rear axle lines. The new 350Z is a on Nissan's FM platform, which stands for "front Mid-engine". My 240 is a mid-engine car. my block is about 1.5 inches behind the front axle line. I haven't had it on the scales and corner weighted yet but based on caculations I will have a rear weight bias.

SWEET!

Congrats!! My daughter is a whole 10 weeks old, I know JUST what you're feeling-cool huh.

Hey E.RufusKay I don't want to start anything not in keeping with the thread (oops, too Late) But did you have to do a lift to get the 33's on your Bronco? (My tank is a '93 XLT)

I know we're all sorry to hear about a damaged Z, we work so hard to make them nice and it's gone in a moment. The good news is that you're OK and can build another if need be.

Thanks for the pic's, I have seen the Morten car race at mid-ohio and was able to get to pic's up close in the paddock and talk with the current owner, it was pretty cool. I have #4669 and hesitated about cutting it up, but even in the early days of the Z that's one of the things that people did right away was start modifying. Mine is no where near stock-no going back!

Building an oven was my first thought, but after pricing things out and thinking about the time involved, I started looking at a pre-built "box" of some kind that would work. I have not used an IR lamp personally, the lines issue is what I heard was a probelm with them. Some IR lamps available are quite large and for the most part lines wouldn't be a problem, but they are very expensive.

You're welcome to come over, just give me a heads up a few days out. We are usually pretty busy on weekends, but we just had a little girl (8 weeks old and smiling at her dad!) so we don't get out much!

The issue I have heard of with the IR lamps is uneven heating. If you can imagine a large part, say like a hood, (the thoughts crossed my mind-no rock chips!?) you end up with an area cured, then you have to move the lamp a few inches and cure again. This results in "lines" where along the edge of the heat lamps range it cured but wasn't quite hot enough and then you moved the lamp again. Thats why I want a large oven, my idea of a stripped out chest freezer would work, but a tank of some kind would be great too. even if it's thin metal you can insulate around the outside with rigid insulation to retain the heat. You can buy a thermo that takes a surface temp to check for proper temps.