rjracin240

Speaking out my backside, took a measurment on my 15X7 rims this weekend they have 31/2" backspacing which gives me positive offset. Put my 15X81/4" XXR's on with the 225/50-15's on them and had no tire clearance issue's at all. Hope this helps someone make a choice on rim size.

See your celebrating with a cold Corona!!! Congrats on your victory

Not sure what I am missing here, I have 15X7 with zerro offset with 225/50-15 Too R-1 tires, when on the track I experience tire rub of the outside edge of the tires when loading the back cornes in a turn. Loading the suspension would be just like adding negative camber (Static), knocked the dog snot out of the lip curling it up flat in area of rub. An suggestions would be appreciated, I must be missing something obvious if others are having success with 15X8/9's

Continuing on with some amplifying info, just completed a track day @ Barber Motorsport running my 15X7 with 0 offset rims and 225/50-15 tires. Experienced some tire rub on outside of tread shoulder rear tires, inner fender lips have been knocked in with a 5lb sledge hammer so they are virtually flat. Thinking that if I had put the 15x8" XXR's on would definitely have gotten bunches of rub. Anyone have any advice?

Removed bump steer spacers last night now all kinds of room!

Just wanted to illustrate the clearance issue currently experiencing. Will remove Bumpsteer blocks for now while lloking for quick steer steering knuckles as the final fix

Have a set of 15X8.25 with Toyo R888 225/50-15 When balanced they put weights on outer inside edge. Tie rod end caught weight and scarred inside edge. After taking wheels and getting rebalanced with weights more toward inside. Car has strut spacers about 1" which I think is causing clearance issues, Will take some pictures and post. Just a heads up for anyone interested inthis set-up

Old trick with the original pistons was to install them backwards (180 out) as it would run a little looser.

Did you ever find any more pictures of the BMW pulleys in use by the L6 crowd???

Budget.....hoping to keep cost's down by using stock parts bin use and then just doing the neccesary machining of these parts, so take that as the obligatory balancing, cylinder head freshening (3 angle grind etc)rebore if needed with the use of good OEM style piston replacements if needed. Would like to do it right so will be going to a reputable machine shop, if boring is necessary would like to use a boring plate (any specs or pictures of one would be appreciated as there is a lot of thick plate laying around work that I could gt burnt up for a boring plate) Bottom line building a parts bin motor so I can keep my daughter in college, EX Wife, etc....not to say that if there is a key item that needs to be procured or machined that I would not attempt to save to accomplish this! Hope to accomplish 200 crank HP if possible. Will get some pictures together over the weekend, not sure if I still have the hydraulic lifters; there is a lot of new info out there since I last was actively on here. Old school said dump those lifters and replace with solid, dont use the P79 use square port! Need to re-inventory parts this weekend, thanks for suggestions so far keep em rolling.

Here is the dilema, motor let loose last HPDE I went to. Motor was one of those Z car motors built from a bunch of stuff laying around and had quite a few miles, in its defense though lasted about 10 years of racing! Motor is a stock 240 block with 280 bottom end Z pistons, prior history unknown. E88 head that I had from my original motor basically stock. Engine had been running hot with some mild detonation for a while, but on the last day it ran, went way hot, loud detonation, then the cloud of oily smoke out of the crankcase vent. 0 PSI in #4 cylinder and the rest of the cylinders between 110 and 130. Car has trip 40 Mikuni's, 21/2" exhaust, tilton flywheel. Question is if block is usable should I put oversize pistons and a E31 head on it and let it roll or F54block and a P90 head. Have the following heads Virgin E31 head, E31 head that someone has shaved and done a valve job too (contemplating welding it back up and resurfacing so has close to stock compression, would rather use this head than get into the virgin head and save it for some later build) P90 head is also wrecking yard head that someone has shaved to just below the P90 on the side of head, this might be a good thing and might put compression closer to where it needs to be. Second P90 is unshaved but was a 93 with Hydraulic Lifters that I would swap out if used. Do work at a facility where they have a weld engineer and different methods of welding from MIG to TIG so any restoration of head should not be a problem. In order for weld engineer to work up a procedure, does anyone know the characteristics of the base material for the cylinder head?? Of course all info that is generated during this build will be shared for all on here. Any help and feedback would be appreciated.

Working in a ship yard with a real cool as in huge plasma cutter that can I have been told cut a knats behind out of a piece of 3" thick steel. Thinking a boring plate would be a good project for the guys to do in trade for something next time they had some scrap. With that being said any one got some dimensions pictures drawings of a boring plate that I can use. Of course it would be available for sharing with a reasonable deposit to insure it comes home!

I have a similiar thread in the motorsport section of our forums, however it does not seem like it is getting the viewing that it needs. The SCCA is considering changing the classing for the S-30 Z into DSP which would be a great move in making our cars competitive on a level playing field. Please write to the SCCA and let them hear your support of this. the squeaky wheel gets the grease! The SCCA has just posted the March Fastrack and includes this: Quote: Originally Posted by SCCA FasTrack STREET PREPARED - The SPAC continues to review feedback and data concerning the possible moves of Datsun/Nissan Z cars to DSP. (ref. 09-734, 09-739, 09-753, 10-003, 10-054, 10-055) That means we still have a chance! PLEASE, write a letter if you haven't done so. The above is an update from the classic Z car forum where I have a similiar thread going. Really looking for some help from all members in regards to writing into the SCCA. If you are not even a member but would write into them and say that you have a Z and would like to autocross but feel the Z classing is not on a level playing field, so therefore you are waiting for this change, it will help! Thanks ahead of time for any support you can give in the form of a letter/email into the SCCA seb@scca.com