rjracin240

I went from the 1" to a 11/8" bar that I found at a wrecking yard, honestly felt no difference, car does roll a bit as pictured. But does feel very stable, and predictable. Have the old AZ springs with the Koni 1152 shocks in front and some Koni's that AZ Z Car was selling, urethane bushings all around. Power output is probably pretty low considering I have a 30+ year old wrecking yard motor in it. So sounds like advice JHM gave is in keeping with my set-up

Put a set of these needles on my Z and definitely helped out, surprised the hell out of me at a autocross called the Bay Bottom Crawl looked down in one section where it is pretty short and car was almost to 8K, definitely think the needles helped out on that. Car always pulled strong with these needles

Just my .02C, be careful on working with those door bars and your left elbow, the more you stretch out your arms the less control you have in your steering wheel. That position is ok if you saw at the wheel but for finer control seating closer to the wheel in road racing provides more control. Looks like those door bars were inspired by a shop that is more familiar with drag racing than road racing! All welds and bends look of top quality, would like to see more pictures of the seat mounting points if possible

Not meaning to hijack your thread but do have a concern that is a topic of discussion when getting into frame rails: when replacing the frame rails and floors should the vehicle be supported in order to not get any unintentional distorting of the shell when replacing these compontnents (frame rails and or floor)? thanks for any advice.

Have the opputunity to get a boring plate cut for me, anybody have any input as to the need for one and if it is a good idea, any specifications for one?

With that head laying down like that and a camshaft installed, I wouold check to make sure no valves got bent. It is possible avalve is sitting proud of the head.

We are at a point where we as a group need to try and preserve the Datsun history, looks like that motor definitely made some history in its day.......let it keep on living in its glory and do the swap for the motor that you are really looking for.

Have the same aluninum blocks for the rear mount of my sway bar, just dont have the rest of that hack set-up. Found the adjustability of that rear bar interesting though. Found my rear bar set-up at a wrecking yard, seems to work good though!

XXR 15X81/4 with Toyo R888 225/50-15's little bit of fender tuck had to take bumpsteer spacers out due to rub of tie rod on inner part of rim, no other fitment issues