rjracin240

Did not balance cam. I am sure there has to be some advantage to balancig it. Just never heard of anyone doing it before. Not even sure if it is possible

Go with the 350Z setup those Toyota calipers sure are heavy!!!

Try using ACF-50 on your parts between this and the natural oxidization process of the aluninum think you will get the patina you are loking for.

Found that Castrol Super Clean works great on aluninum parts especailly getting the sludge out of valve covers. it is a lot less caustic but still needs to be used with care. However I have never had a problem of it turning the aluninum white. What you are seeing when youget the white powder is a form of oxidation where your aluninum is actually corroding. When we see this for of corrosion on our aircraft skins we remove the pitting if it has gone that far and then clean the area with a product called alumaprep. Once the aluninum has been cleaned it gets rinsed very clean and then prepped with Alodine zinc chromate or epoxy polymide primer then a top coat of paint. I would sugest reevaluating your acid solution for something a little less harsh.

I sectioned my struts to fit a set of Koni 8610's in the front and a set of non adjustable Konis for the rear. Then rewelded my stock spring perches back on and used the AZ Z Car HD springs. Seemed like the car with this setup definitely held it's own against the other Z's at the track event at Daytona. I have been running this setup for several years I strongly recommend it. Since I am interested in becoming more aggressive on track events I am considering several upgrades including following some advice from John Coffey concerning coilovers to increase my spring rate. The HD springs felt great on the street as well as the track. Good luck with whatever chooice you make.

I have a set of unused Motorsport Auto Camber plates that I would consider selling when I get back home around the 11th of Jan. Price would be $150 plus shipping

Thanks for the info to the thread. Definitely got wheels turning. Russ

I have been trying to find some answers as to what needs to be done to run the 280ZX calipers in the front of my 72 240Z? It seems like I read a thread on this before however I cannot find it. If I remember correctly the 280ZX calipers bolt right on then you use a 300ZX rotor that has to be machined to decrease its diameter. This to me seems like a much better solution for me than using the heavy truck calipers. I hope I am right on this also by using the rear 280ZX brakes you can use the 280ZX master cylinder as well as the proportioning valve. Allowing for better brake balance. This setup should be good for a car with appx 250HP Any help on this would be appreciated

My friend is interested in selling his mint original 72 240, hate to see him get rid of it. He can be reached at ejopco@embarqmail.com Good luck with your search

definitely did not go to these extremes of measurements but just followed along in the how to modify your Datsun book. Took a postal scale and just filed off in the areas shown in this thread until I had a good weight reduction and then matched all the rocker arms in weight. Wasnt neccesarily looking for specific weight just consistency between all the rockers in weight. Noticed a big difference in how the engine revved definitely revved quicker. I have been autocrossing my car and track daying this car for a number of years now with no related failure in my valvetrain. Definitely not afraid to rev the engine or baby it. Got a free evening and want some more performance for free, definitely give this mod a try. Pee yella 240 # 186 Track day Z Car Convention!

Thanks for the great time at the Track Day and Autocross. Wish it had been a slow week in Fl for motorsport events so I could have spent the entire week at the convention.

Just got back from S America this month and England last year. Europe has a sweet version of the frontier pickup with a 2.5 turbo diesiel. S. America had all sorts of diesiel pickups all the way from crew cab 721 to current crew cab diesiel pickups. Wrote to Nissan customer service asking when we might be getting a Nissan diesiel.......you guessed it absolutely clueless. What is the matter with those idiots?

Just curious on a couple of aspects on this thread: The dowel's pressed into the flywheel.....are these not for a shear load and the bolts there for a tension load??? With all of us obviously having a problem with using our stock flywheel bolts for the clutch, what support is Fidanza giving on this issue? Unfortunately I am currently out of the country or else I would call them myself. I know one of the threads said Fidanza was drilling the holes deeper and tapping them however this seems like it comes with a long turnaround time anyone with experience on this??

I put one in my 510 cant believe how much the engine buzzed so when I got the flywheel for my Z. Put the flywheel on my plastic cone for balancing the lawn mower blade and sure enough the flywheel was heavy on one side. so for ha ha's took some weights and my gram scale and piled on the weight. It took over 2 ounces to balance it out. Havent installed it yet pending finding a machine shop I can trust in the Jacksonville Fl area. Any suggestions for a machine shop??? Hey JC want to sell any of those bolts from the box of a 100???? Kind of curious what grade these bolts are actually as they only get torqued to around 26ft lbs if I remeber correctly and if you go much over that the head snaps right off ( back from my days as a kid with no torque wrench). Seem like an awfully soft bolt for its size.

I have a set of tie rod ends for a 280 I believe. Are these interchangeable with a 240 steering rack? How do you identify these rod end's between the different years assuming there is a difference?? Thanks for the help

This is the deal: got trip Mikunii 40's on the car, when running it hard (4500rpm+) it will tend to feel like it has a rev limiter on it and wont rev past 5500. Dicked around with the jets fuel pump etc and all seems like it is good. Starting to look at ignition now and looking for advise on the ZX Distributor that is installed in the car. When that little black box on the side goes tits up what symptoms do you see? anybody have any troubleshooting tips? Any alternatives when replacing this box? Thanks ahead of time for your help. Hoping to get it running strong for Daytona andthe convention hope to see you there.