Nizm0Zed

rotaries can be very reliable engines, i personally know of several that have done over 100,000kms. Like you said, look after it correctly and they are just as good as a piston motor. Warm it up, cool it down, make sure it has lubrication for the seals, use mineral base oils not synthetics, good quality fuel, proper tuning, regular maintenance ect. The things that kill a rotor is no lube in the fuel, hot oil temps (oil is used to cool the rotors), Poor tuning, no mechanical sympathy, poor quality rebuild/parts. From that, all of those things (except fuel lube) apply to any engine. There are also people that slag off rotors for blowing up and being unreliable because they heard of joe smith who rebuilds his rotor every year or 2 after a low amount of kms. What they neglect to add, or just dont know, is that joe's engine is a comp spec highly strung motor that does a LOT of track time. Same goes for a piston motor used in the same conditions. Full on competition racers rebuild after several runs/once a season. Same with rotors. Otherwise its in a street car that blew up, because the owner straps the balls off it, it isnt tuned properly and was rebuild cheaply. Again, a piston motor in the same situation will suffer the same problems, its just better at hiding it for longer.

That may help you to visualize it.

so where did you go to school? 1.3 + 1.3 + 1.3 = 3.9 1.3 + 1.3 = 2.6 This is a really crude way to explain it, but, bear with me. The rotor has 3 combustion chambers for each rotor. For a 13B they are 654cc for EACH chamber. the combustion chamber is the machined hollow in the face of the rotor. 2 rotors equal 6 in total. The engine is a 4 stroke motor, so at any given time when running, (talking about a twin rotor now) you'll have 2 combustion chambers in induction, drawing a fuel/air mix in, 2 chambers compressing and igniting the fuel/air mixture and the last 2 chambers exhausting the burned remains (and sounding like a pack of angry wasps) In a complete rotation (720 degrees, like a 4 stroke petrol motor) the engine will only use 2 of its 3 combustion chambers per rotor. So, looking at that, there are only ever 4 combustion chambers with any fuel/air in them at any given time in a 720 degree engine cycle. 4 chambers at 654cc = 2616cc understand? Like i said, very crude.

iirc, once you start getting high power 3 rotor and 4 or more rotors, you have a LOT of trouble controlling the twist of the motor. Probably need to start bracing them externally. Having said that, watching Mad Mike (from New Zealand) in his quad rotor RX7 drifting Eastern Creek Raceway during the World Time Attack Challenge was absolutely epic. And my god, the sound....

http://gktech.com.au/product_detail.asp?ship=show&id=4to5-spcr&veh=&country=Australia&postcode=2904&x=45&y=12 BAM!

I have 3 megasquirt ECU's and a Jimstim. I dont know if i should test them out and use them, or sell them on. Im not actually 100% sure exactly what i have. Pictures here... http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,10779.0.html

There is 4 wires, Looking at the plug it has a raised notch on one side. If that were oriented to the top, you'd have Top left - Signal wire (white wire) (inner band of 6 slots?) Bottom left - Signal wire (green wire) (outer band of 360 slots?) One of these signal wires is for the outer band of slits, one is for the inner band of slits, Sorry i dont know which is which. Top Right - Ground (black wire) Bottom right - +12v Power (red wire) hope that helps.

can be removed.

Thread bump! Does anyone have a E6X L28ET base map that I could perhaps have a copy of? My engine is a L28ET, 440cc GTR injectors, GT3271R, waste spark ignition. The big thing is the fuel maps, im pretty much ok to change any other settings to suit what I have, but im having a bit of trouble getting my head around the fuel side of things. I dont need it to run perfectly, its going to go to a workshop for a full tune. Unfortunately for my wallet, if it doesnt start/run/rough idle it'll cost me more for them to tune it as they have to spend longer on it initially. If anyone can help, MASSIVE thanks.

So, reading between the lines, there is your answer. Import a set of tyres from Japan (or perhaps another more local market to you? Cuba? Mexico? Brazil? dont know the logistics of that) From there, you can mount them to a nice light weight set of rims for track days and off street racing events. On the street you shouldnt require massive performance from your tyres unless your breaking several road laws in the process, and none of us ever do that.... I think personally if you want to keep that type of tyre on the street, you'll need to upgrade to a 15" rim, which doesnt look stupid and opens your tyre choices a lot. Move with the times, adapt or die out. Unfortunately manufacturers allways move with the times, and the 14" tyres are a dying thing. You'll still be able to get them, just not in the selection you once did. Its a similar story here in Oz too. Everyone is going for bigger rims.

Construction? Like buildings and things? If you have qualifications then yes, Oz has a decent skills shortage. Go through the proper channels and you will be able to get a working visa and job lined up before you leave. First step would be to look through some of the large contracting companies, Lendlease, Hays, ect.

yea, i dont blame you guys for not wanting to join. you get all the cool imports and we are stuck with an inept government, a 'justice system that is based on revenue raising and a massive problem of racism from the useless 'aussies' (flag waving bogans) who are too damn proud, too stupid, and too arrogant to make any difference in the things they are complaining about being hard done by.

lol.

trademe is New Zealand. New zealand isn't Australia (although we are better at sports, just ask them) Thats like saying Canada and America are the same