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vqpwrd240

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Everything posted by vqpwrd240

  1. Just wondering what ITB's you are running? Look great so far. Ferhan
  2. Check the V-6 engine forum. Mckinney Motorsports just posted they will have the swap kit shortly. Check vq240z.com for Hoke's website. Ferhan
  3. Would you want a 72 240z with a 350 sbc and 350 trans? Ferhan
  4. That is a very impressive build. If you get bored make me one of those chassis and send it my way. Ferhan
  5. I am. I only wish you were closer. Could really use your help with the same stuff you are working on. Great job so far. Ferhan
  6. PM me your paypal and shipping address. I will to get the shackles out to you next next. Ferhan
  7. You already know I want one but I figured I post here too. Ferhan
  8. I have just finished installing a GM 3 wire alternator in my 72 Z. I have gone through the write up on the forums on how to do it. I now need to know what to do with the wires that go to the voltage regulator. I did see some diagrams showing what to do with them on a 76 and newer. Please help. Thanks in advance. Ferhan
  9. What is the price for the fwd kit? What is included? Any pictures? Thanks. Ferhan
  10. I have disconnected the voltage regulator. The battery stays at 12 volt without drainning. Somehow, this also took care of my run on issue. The car now does turn off when I turn the key to the off position. Ferhan
  11. The alternator looks like it is the stock or original one to me. Here is a picture of it. Ferhan
  12. Thanks. Got the fuel filter all taken care of. The alternator hook up is correct. I decided to unplug the voltage regulator to see if the voltage would still increase and over charge the battery. The voltage stayed at 12.4 or so. I let the car running for a while and it did not decrease or increase at all. I drove it around the block and checked again. Still the same. I checked the wires and they were not hot and the one off the started was not smoking. Not really sure what is going on here. Ferhan
  13. I had to put the point pretty close together to get it to fire. I believe that it is misfiring because there is a slight stumbling. I am still working on my voltage issue. I replaced the V.R. but my voltage is still increasing above 16 volts. My wires are heating up and the white power wire off the starter smokes after a minute or two. Ferhan
  14. I got the car started. Thanks to everyone. Have a question. Once I got it started, I noticed the white wire on the stater was smoking. It was the positive 8 gauge wire right where the battery is attached to the starter. Any ideas as to what is happening? I will be changing the voltage regulator once it arrives. Will that solve the problem? Thanks. Ferhan
  15. Just got home. I have doulbe check all the plug wires and connections already and the firing order. The plugs came gapped at .034 thousandths, I checked before installing. I will work on it now and see what happens. Lastly, I noticed that the owner before me have removed the fuel filter. I have one to put in but I need to know which line is which. The filter is the "L" shaped one made of plastic. Please let me know how is it hooked up. Thanks. Ferhan
  16. I used the Chiltons manual for setting the point gap. It said to set it at .4 to .5 mm at the highest point. Would that be about the same as you stayed? I will double check that. I just bought all the stuff for a tune up so I really do not want to buy a new setup. I will have someone crank it while I check the timing later. Thanks Greg. Ferhan
  17. Thanks. I cannot set the timing until I get it running. It cranks but will not start. Any ideas as to what happened from before the tune up to after? Ferhan
  18. Thanks for the response. I have determined that the voltage regulator is faulty. It continuesly charges the battery. I will be replacing it. I have just finished a complete tune up today. I looked up the timing and it should be at 0. Anyways, changed points, plugs, wires, air filter, and cleaned up the fuse box. NOW THE CAR WON"T START! What is going on? Thanks in advance. Ferhan
  19. Well I replaced all the fuses that I cound from under the console. There are a few that I cannot since I don't know what amp they are. Anyone have a picture of the fuse box cover that show what the fuses are? I did an oil change and put in all new battery and groud cables under the hood. I can get the car started but it is not running well. I will be changeing plugs, wires, and the distributor/rotor as well. I will also buy a timing light to check the timing on Sunday. Where should the stock timing be? Well here is the other problem. I got the car started but once it is running, you can not shut it off. I can pull the key out but the car keeps running. The previous owner had told me about this but I have no idea how to fix it. Lastly, there is one wire in the center console that is getting really hot. Not sure what it is to. It is white with a red strip. I think it screws right into the fuse box. Any reason why it is getting so hot? Thanks again. Ferhan
  20. I put in about $30 dollars of fuel before driving it. I know I have to get the timing set too. The distributer was loose when I was checking under the hood. Other than behind the center console, where else are fuses that I can check? Thanks guys. Keep the info coming. I am about to go out to work on it now. Ferhan
  21. How would I check to see if that is the problem? Any other possible causes? Thanks. Ferhan
  22. Well, if any one has any ideas as to what happened please let me know. I was in 5th diving about 55 mph. It just suddenly lost all power and started to coast. I pulled over. Tried to start it up but it will only crank. Wil not start. No fluids were leaking from the car, no smoke, or funny smells other than a bit of the fuel smell. I also noticed the the battery was very hot and looked as if the fluid was coming out of it. The battery is a new Optima red top. Any help would be great. Thanks. Ferhan
  23. I have a few pretty big cuts. But I will look into it. Thanks. Ferhan
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