zdrift

UPDATE- So i did adjust the throttle screw and just as i expected, the idle jumped back up to 1500 RPM'S, But a funny thing i noticed is the tube that goes from the j-pipe to the aac valve and factory by-pass valve when i squeezed the tube and cut air supply off it died, also if i added a slight amount of pressure it would lower the idle is that normal??? Also will be making a video tommorow and posting so you guys can get a better idea and see it for yourself. thanks for the help!!!

UPDATE- So i finished the fixing the leak, none to be found but it still idles at 1500 once it warms up, also i know if i remove the oil cap it tryies to die, but it only drops the idle to 1000 RPM'S and then jumps back up to 1500 RPM'S. Im gonna try the trottle screw, but i think its just gonna jump back up to 1500 RPM'S

UPDATE- So i have found out that my intake manifold is warped, but not by much. But i'm sure its enough to make the bolts loosen again over time. My question is would it be fine to put some red thread locker in and torque them down to spec's hoping that it wont come loose again????

So i know all the hoses that go to the valve cover from the J-pipe, AAC valve, and the other valve by the 4th runner on the intake manifold are all new. ill look on the pop-off valve and check the gromet, Also can some one on here help me with possible posting a vid and some pics so you guys can see it better for yourself. I'm fixing the exhaust leak as of today, So ill see how that goes

UPDATE-Would not having a carbon/ charchol canister have an effect on this??? Cause when i got the car that's one thing i noticed was missing. But i know that the lines that are suppose to go to it are all rerouted to the manifold so there wont be any leaks.

On the screw right??? So i can put it back just incase?

Also does anyone kno if the HSK sequential BOV is bad to run??? I've heard it is cause at idle it sucks in air. Also was told to get a greddy BOV so i can reciruclate it. Cause the HKS BOV cant recirculate.

So its inside the intake manifold?? Your not talking about the pop-off valve right?? Got any pics on what it looks like???

Ok ill try the idle screw today and see what happens. Also the bolt that was loose was not holding the intake manifold. It was one of the bolts on the end of the exhaust manifold that just holds it. let's see how this goes. Also got kragen to warranty my gaskets, so im going to fix the leak this saturday with no cost to me, YA!!! More gas money, currently $3.09-it blows, but TURBO dosent,lol

No im taking the blame on that one, But im blaming them for not having the silver gaskets and switching to some crappy brown cardboard,lol Also there are no vaccume leaks that i know of I've checked all the leaks (none to be found), just a bad exhaust leak, This wouldn't cause it would it??? Just need to know before i play with the idle screw.

Hey FlatBlack 280z, whats this Pallnet kit all about???. Is it like a APR head stud kit?, but for you intake and exhaust manifold???? Also there are no signs of warpage, Me and my friend rebiult the motor and got the Head, Manifold (both intake and exhaust) all resurfaced, But i know when i got the leak the exhaust manifold bolt (last one closest to the fire wall that's a nut on a stud came loose), And thats what caused the gasket to crack and cause a leak. That's all i know as of now Thanks for all the HELP guys:)

No i haven't tried to. I was goning to do that, but one of my buddies said it might be a different issuse, So he told me not to mess with it yet. UPDATE- to let you guys get a better understanding of the situation, Here is what i noticed. When i first start the car (after sitting for a while allowing the car to cool off, or first starting it up in the morning) the car idle's at around 800 RPM's, but once it warms up that's when it jumps the idle up to 1500 RPM's. Maybe some one has had this kind of experience with there's???

Ya i found some on ebay, But they seem to get pricey now. Also were would you find the nissan OEM gasket at??? Would i have to order it directly through nissan???

Ok so now i have a problem, all the work that i did was useless, i just found another exhaust leak. These damn sh**** felpro manifold gaskest. I used 2 of them and im only pushing 8lbs of boost and they still blew, Even torqued them down to specs. So dose anyone know of a good brand of manifold gaskets that aren't that hard to find???

Ok sorry about my last post guys and gals. I didnt use proper punctuation and i haven't seen the huge A** spell check button on top,lol. Anyways the reason im posting is cause last you heard i had blown my turbo, Well thats all sorted out. Now i have a new T3/T4 hybrid turbo in my car. It runs great, im boosting 8lbs now and the car pulls really hard:), But the thing i can't figure out is why my car is idling at 1500 RPM's? So i checked the vaccume lines and made sure all were well and hooked up. Then i checked for exhaust and intake leaks- none to be found But the wierd thing i do know is this- When i take the oil cap off the idle drops down to about 1000 RPM's, And to my understanding the car is suppose to idle at about 800 RPM's right?? So what could be doing this? Do you thing it could have to do with my PCV valve? I just want the thing to idle at the proper RPM Next thing, i want to boost more but had a few questions about it. And for you to better help me this is what i want to accomplish. Around 330 hp or more to the wheels:burnout:, And just a list of whats already done to the car. Front mount I/C Cold Air Intake MSD Blaster Coil T3/T4 hybrid turbo Full straight 3' exhaust My questions are: 1. What size injectors should i run? 2. Sould i change the TB? 3. Is HKS sequential BOV good to run on my car? 4. Should i use a aftermarket fule rail? Thanks guys and gals all your help is great!

Ok i have read the sticky on the z31 wiring to the 280zxt and i cant seem to figure out why it wont fire. the fuel pump comes on the car cranks but the ignitor wont fire so no spark. i have the new 34pin and 3 pin connected to the coil. but for some reason the the z31 ECU lights both the green light and the red light i have a 87 ECU and a 85 maf do you think it might be that??? i want my car to run and afshin if you could help that would be great, i have done everything you said so far but am wondering what went wrong and if my ECU is no good????

have had mine for about 4 months and its deffinetly the way to go if you dont want to spend the time and money to make your own, and yes they do sit close to the tranny, but they sound nice, i only wish they could make it in 3 and 4 inch but 2.5 is what it comes in:(. if you want it fast gotta go custom:icon44:

afshin do you have to hook up pin 34 to the + side of the coil for the car to run and is it the same for pin 3 to the - side of the coil, cause i did everything you said but never connected pin 34 and 3 to the coil and my ECU turns on but the green light and red light are showing together and my fuel pump wont come on and i dont get any spark, also i have a 5 pin bosh style fuel pump relay wired in my car how would you work with that??? please let me kno i want better maping:(

ok so im gonna try to explain it more clear and will post pics on tuesday. L28ET SWAP WIRING GUIDE NOTE: This is a wirte up based on what had been done to get my car running...Thanks Ray Anderson...So if you f!@#-up your car dont try to blame me it was done at your own will and i will not be held responseable!!!!! 1) Make sure you have everything for the swap!!! this contains the ignitor, wiring harness for the motor, wiring harness for the ignitor, complete turbo motor, ECU, turbo dizzy/distributor, and fuel pump relay ( I used a 5 prong bosch style relay for my fuel pump). 2) start off by wiring power for the ECU. These wires should be green and brown and should have a fuseable link inbetween them. Connect the green and brown wires to 12v off of your battery post (dont forget to use the fuseable link). This will supply power to turn on the ECU. 3) Now for the confusing part, the only wires that need to be connected are 2 black w/ white stripe wire. One is to power on the EFI relay the other is to fire off the ignitor, one b/w wire will be located on the ignitor harness that comes from the ignitor its self (wire connected to ignitor next to yellow wire). The second one will be found in the 5 pin plug on the motor harness, this plug will have many different colored wires, green, yellow, white, black w/ white stripe, and blue w/ red stripe. Use the b/w and connect both of the black w/ white stripe wires together and connect to 12v true igniton ( true igniton means that the wire will have 12v when switched and while cranking). This will allow the motor to fire ONLY if you have your own fuel pump relay connected. 4) Now the blue w/ red stripe wire is ment to prime the fuel system. It will have 12v for 5 seconds when the car is in ACC and 12v constant when in the ON positon. If you want this feature then all you have to do is connect the l/r wire to the power side of your fuel pump relay, DO NOT connect this l/r wire to switched power of any sort, the ECU controlls this wire when it gets power, So as long as you have your ECU connected properly and it turns on then you wont have a problem with it working. If any one has questions or would like a write up on how to wire in your own 5 prong bosch style fuel pump relay let me kno and ill make one. Good Luck!!!!!!!!

anyone know??? anyone? just asking for a little help here, just point me in the right direction at least

what the timing specs are for a 1983 280zxt? i read that it was 24 degrees btdc i was wondering if that was correct??? someone else told me that its 18 degrees btdc. so now im confused, also if it helps i sawped it into a 71 240z. please help!!! thanks

do you have to sign up for that?

hey, whats a good site to up-load pics from??? or should i just make a vid for you tube????

thanks, ill do that.

sorry guys i was tired i did it at 2 in the morning after coming home from work, if i did draw up a diagram how would i post somthing like that???