PaulR
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Posts posted by PaulR
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I'm in the process of plumbing a Holley Commander 950 into my '71 Z w/ 350 Chevy engine. I am replacing the 4 barrel carb I now have with a TBI unit. The carb is currently fed using a Holley red (6psi) fuel pump mounted near the stock tank. My plan is to mount a surge tank in the engine compartment and use the Holley red pump to feed the surge tank via the stock Z line and then pump out of the surge tank with the high pressure pump to the TBI unit via 3/8 line with a 5/16 return line back to the surge tank. My question is: Do I need to have another return line from the surge tank back to the gas tank? I am guessing that I don't, because the Holley red pump seemed to work fine on the carb without a return line, and worse case it mould pressurize the surge tank to 6 psi. I've also heard that this pump actually likes some back pressure to work against. There is a small (1/4"?) vent line to the engine compartment... maybe I could use that as a return line. Your comments and opinions are, as always, appreciated.
BTW, here are a couple of pictures of the surge tank I just made. Any guesses what I made it from??
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OK, back to the original topic
I just used the discount code (M26100) to save $135 off the price of a Holley Commander 950 TBI system. Remember, good till Dec 31.
Paul
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Pull-A-Part in South Everett, just N of 128th on Hwy 99. Yes, their parts are very inexpensive. There is another Pull-a-Part in Lynnwood on Hwy 99 w/ same prices.Originally posted by Dp351zcar:Paul what yard were you in? Were the other parts that cheap for the other cars?
Don
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Anyone try to make a Toyota Supra differential work in a Z? I just came from the Pull-A-Part yard and saw 2 of them there. One was a build date of May '85, the other was a similar vintage. They have a finned rear cover, use CV jointed half-shafts, and have a sticker that says "use LSD oil only", which imlpies limited slip, right
I couldn't turn the wheels to verify LSD or ratios. The yard wants $30 for the diff and $20 for each half-shaft. Anyway, I seached the archives and didn't see anything. Even if I could make it fit, any opinions as to whether or not this diff vould hold up behind a healthy V8?Thanks,
Paul
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The 17x10.5 wheels are 28mm offset and have a 6.8" backspace.Originally posted by Tomahawk Z:Paul what is the backspace on those wheels?
The 17x9 wheels are 24mm offset and have 5.9" backspace.
In the front, I am using the 300ZX hubs ('86) and rotor spacer that Ross describes. I am not using a wheel spacer in the front.
On the rear I re-drilled for 5 lugs and use a 1.25" bolt-on spacer.
I got my wheels from www.performancewheeloutlet.com , but there are lots of other aftermarket suppliers for this style wheel. Performance Wheel doesn't get high marks from me for customer support, but in the end, everything worked out. Pick up one of the Mustang enthusiast magazines next time you're at the grocery store and thumb thru it if you what to see who else makes them.
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Have you looked at the aftermarket Mustang Cobra "R" wheels? The ones in my sig picture are 17x10.5 rear and 17x9 front. The nice thing is that they are 5 on 4.5 and the fronts fit perfect if you use the 300ZX hubs (ie, no spacers or flares) and coil-overs. The rears are re-drilled and use spacers (1.5" I think) with coil-overs and 1.75" flares. Mine are painted, but chromed or polished are also options.
Paul
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Yup, here's my versionOriginally posted by Jim Powers:What needs to be done is to redesign the mount to put it under compression instead of tension. There have been at least 3 different designs on this board for doing so. All require bending and welding some metal.
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Well, here's an update: I tried the Napa 7369 hose and didn't like the fit... so I had the local Napa store order the 8948 hose. I just installed it and it was a much better fit. So, the bottom line is use the Napa 8948 lower hose with a Giffin radiator and a SBC in the JTR position.
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Yeah, it kinda weird sometimes... I was planning to replace the lower hose today and had already done the research and found the info from Brian's site. Then, I just saw this post as I was having my morning coffee before going out to my shop (the building in the background of my sig)! BTW, I did a quick look on napaonline and their p/n for the Gates 20608 is 7369 and it does include the inner coil.
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On this site:
The author states "I ended up using a Gates/ECR p/n 20608 for the lower hose and a Gates/ECR p/n 7368 for the top hose. I had to cut a little off of each of these hoses. Note that the 20608 should work for a Chevy in the "Set-Back" position also."
Paul
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Sure... I would still like to try and figure out if using the original control module could be done. Thanks Pete.
Paul
Originally posted by pparaska:Paul,
Sorry I missed the rest of this thread.
Let me know if you want the control module wiring diagrams.
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I picked up a Taurus fan and Relay module from the local Pull-A-Part and I am hoping I can figure out how to wire things up using the OEM module. (Pete, I think I rember you mentioning in another post that you might have a schematic for the OEM fan control circuit. If you do, could you scan a copy for me?) The relay module has a 24 contact connector going to it! I can figure out some of the wiring without a schematic, but there are still a bunch of wires that I don't have a clue where they go. I figure that connecting the appropriate ones to +12 and ground will switch the relays the way I want. That way I can take advantage of both the high and low speeds. Anyway, if I figure it all out, I promise to post a detailed description for others to use. BTW, the module has 4 large relays in it, so like Pete, they've probably paralleled them up for the high current.Originally posted by pparaska:Dave, thanks for doing that test, instrumenting and giving us the results!
Just be careful - My Mustang GT fan pulls 35amps on HIGH. You need some good sized wiring for that. I'm actually running 2 VF40 automotive relays in parallel to handle the loads. I'd imagine the Taurus fan is the same way.
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You're right. Searching "ALL" doesn't work either. Maybe because that routine searches the Chevy board first?Originally posted by Dontrell:Are you sure it is just with the Chevy Board? Because I tried searching all of the boards at once and wouldn't work.
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I can't get a search to work in the "Chevy V8Z Tech Board" forum. All I get is a blank page. Searching the other forums seems to work fine. Is it just me, or has anyone else seen this too?
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OK, have to chime in with my version. Its similar to the angle iron approach, but instead, I folded up a "U" channel out of 1/4" plate to catch both sides. I also added a rubber pad between this bracket and the bottom of the cross-member:
I made the rubber pad from an old 240Z engine mount that I cut up with a hack-saw. Here it is mounted to the cross-member:
I carved away part uf the U-Channel to clear my 3" exhaust. Here is everthing installed (from the rear looking forward)
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I recently built a DIY-WB using the Honda sensor and the Oz kit and thats exactly what I am using it for... tuning my carb. Its great because I can tune all the circuits including WOT. I am running a Edelbrock Performer 750 and what I have found is that the jetting was way too rich out of the box. I have gone 4 stages leaner on the primary jets and 3 stages leaner on the secondaries. I am now running near stoich (14.7) at cruise and about 11.5 at wot. still a little fat at wot but I think I'll leave it there to be safe. Anyway, very handy as a tuning tool and it cost about $200 for the kit and the sensor. I am simply using a DVM for the display, but I plan to build one of the 40 LED bar graphs that are available as kits too. Also looking into this $25 data-logger: DataqOriginally posted by BLKMGK:For a carb'ed V8 I'm not sure just how much tuning you could do with a W/B since I believe the carb's adjustments are far more coarse than with EFI. If you're going EFI in the future though the W/B is damned near a must for tuning!
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Thanks, I would have guessed you hook connect both the yellow and orange striped wires to the battery + for the high setting, but it seems to work fine with just the one... and like you said, it the brown/yellow for "high"
Originally posted by LoneInAZ:Black is your ground, and I believe its brown yellow for high, but simply using a jumper wire and touch positive to yellow or orange strip will tell you which is which pretty simple.
Regards,
Lone
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OK, I picked up one of these today at the local Pull-A-Part. Anyone know what the wiring is? It has three wires:
1: Brown with Yellow stripe
2: Brown with Orange stripe
3: Black
Thanks!!
Paul
Originally posted by Greimann:I ran across a vehicle cross reference for the Taurus fan and a resource on where to get a new one if a person doesn't want to go the Salvage yard route:
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I live in the relatively cool (temperature wise) Pacific North West and I had never had any cooling issues... but 2 weeks ago, I made a trip south to Mt. Shasta for the All Datsun Meet and I was worried that I might have problems on that trip. They were experiencing all-time record highs and it was 108 when I got there! I know that a lot of you guys see temps like that, but it was a first for my Z. BTW, the guys who ran at the Thunder Hill track in Willows, CA said it was 118 there!!! I think I would have died had I gone.
I am running a Griffin 2-core (1" tubes) and a Black Magic fan.
It was definitly running hotter than it ever had before, but I don't feel it ever really got close to "over-heating" . On I-5, going through the Siskious (a series of +4000 ft passes) the mech Autometer guage would get close to 220 on the climb and cool back to 190 on the coast back down. The hottest it got was on the "Poker Run" were we drove up Mt Shasta 'till the road ended (about 8000 ft) at the top I was at 230, but still no sign of boil-over. Some research I have done says that an upper safe limmit to run a SBC is 230-240, and that you can run all day at 220. Anyway, if I lived in a hotter climate, I might consider the 1.25" tubes for the extra cooling
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Edelbrock's carburetor manual implies you should tune their carbs for about 12.5 at Wide Open Throttle, around 14.0 for part throttle acceleration and 15 - 15.5 for part throttle cruise.
You can see their full explanation here:
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/eps_sect1.html#requirements
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Just for another data-point, here's what I am running:
FRONT:
wheels: 17x9
tires: 245-45-17
coilovers: yes, 10" free length
flares: no
comments: no rubbing at full bump and/or lock
REAR:
wheels: 17x10.5
tires: 275-40-17
coilovers: yes, 10" free length
flares: yes, 1.75 inch (MSA "street flares")
comments: no rubbing at full bump
I don't think I could go any bigger in front without flares. In the back, I think 295's would fit. Therefore, you should be able to get those tires to fit given you have OPTIMIZED OFFSET . Also, be warned, parking lot manuevers were a B*TCH before I added power steering
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My Hybrid Z is celebrating it's 10th birthday today!!! I registered it, after having completed a JTR conversion, 10 years ago today. Its seen a lot of changes and improvements since then (brakes, body/paint, wheels/tires, etc) but its has been on the road for the most part since that time. I've always had that need for more power, so I am on the third engine, going from a basically stock 350 to a 377 and then to the current Edelbrock Performer RPM package. Anyways its been fun and the changes and modifications continue. Here's to the next 10 years
Paul
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From the Washington State Legislature site:Originally posted by 77KZA:is it against the law to have no bumbers? oh yea i live in WA if that makes any diff...
http://www.leg.wa.gov/wsladm/default.htm
RCW 46.37.513
Bumpers.
When any motor vehicle was originally equipped with bumpers or any other collision energy absorption or attenuation system, that system shall be maintained in good operational condition, and no person shall remove or disconnect, and no owner shall cause or knowingly permit the removal or disconnection of, any part of that system except temporarily in order to make repairs, replacements, or adjustments.
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Have you looked at the Kumho Ecsta Supras? Tirerack has the 245-45-17 for $100. They're not the stickiest tire, but I think they're a good value for the price.I love 17's too but haven't found the $ for the 17" rubber in my annual budget yet
, that's all that's holding me back from 'em. A bud just bought a set of 17" chromed trophies, 2nd Z bud in as many months...I'm getting stale with my 16x8 245 combo at 44 lbs As I need new treads I'm on the lookout for a deal myself
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, that's all that's holding me back from 'em. A bud just bought a set of 17" chromed trophies, 2nd Z bud in as many months...I'm getting stale with my 16x8 245 combo at 44 lbs 
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Supra LSD??
in Drivetrain
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