PaulR
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Posts posted by PaulR
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The data I have says that the LSD was added to the turbos after build date 4/1987. Maybe that one has an earlier build date?
Does it have a finned cover? (the LSD units do)
Paul
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One thing I was wondering is if this new rack will clear the harmonic balancer on a Chevy V8 swap? Mine (JTR set up) comes real close to the stock Datsun rack. Looks like you have (or will have) a Ford... and Terry's write-up on the T-Bird rack was for a Ford set-up as well. Do the Ford set-ups have more clearance? I was looking at using a T-Bird rack and I'm pretty sure I would have to cut the brackets off the front crossmember and weld new brackets on to get it low enough to clear.
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I've seen references here to people re-drilling the rear flange from 4-bolt to 5-bolt. I took a look at the flange on my 240Z and I am wondering if there is enough "meat" to do this. I generated the attached drawing (to scale) and as you can see, 2 of the new stud locations are only about 1/8 inch from the flange edge. I would appreciate any comments or feedback from anyone who has already done this as I would like to do the same.
Paul
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quote:
Originally posted by pparaska:Sure, a $10 solenoid is hardly a tough band-aid to apply, and if it helps alleviate the heat soak problem (it historically has) then it should be one of the first lines of defense.
I've found two other reasons I like the remote
solenoid:
1) It makes it real easy to hook up a remote
starter switch.
2) It gives you a good place to hook up any
direct battery connections, like a
MSD ignition and Flex-a-lite electric fan.
(they use both direct battery and switched battery connections)
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quote:
Originally posted by Frank280z:I'll try the remote sel. and see if that cures it....hopefully. Frank
For what its worth, I had a heat soak
problem. I added a heat shield on the
starter and still had the problem (maybe
not as bad). I then added a remote solnoid
(Ford style, around $10) and the problem
went away.
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I'm trying to find out if there is any advantage
in the short vs long waterpump set-up. I have
a short aluminum pump that uses spacers to position
it at the long pump's location. Since I plan to
replace my pulleys (I'm the one that's been throwing
fan belts) I figured I could easily go either way.
I am using an electric cooling fan, so locating a mechanical
fan is not an issue. Thanks for your help.
Paul
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OK, just saw the 0-60 posts in the
"I'm tellin' ya" forum. 4.51 sec
is pretty impresive!
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I like the emblems... of course I'm biased
because that what I've got. I gave up the
sleeper look when I added the rear fender flares
and fat tires anyway.
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I am running 2.5" Eibach 175 lb/in, 10 inch
free length. This is probably as stiff as I
would like for a daily driver, stock springs
are about 110 lb/in.
I simply use a piece of 2.5"
(I think that's the dia) exhaust pipe
cut to length as a spacer to support the
threaded sleave. Just slips over the strut
housing after removing the stock spring
perch.
The new lower spring perch sits just above the
tire (275-50-15), so this allows me to run
a wheel with 5.5" backspacing.
I'm not running alot lower than stock, so
I haven't had any problem with the struts
bottoming out.
quote:
Originally posted by Scottie-GNZ:I am planning on installing a set on the rear primarily to get wheel/tire clearance for eventually stuffing bigger meats in the fenders.
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I'm curious, what kind of 0-60 times were you getting? I've been getting around
4.6 sec measure with my G-Tech. BTW,
6/10 is quite an improvement!
quote:
Originally posted by MYRON:I bought a g-tech pro and started tofine tune my car. After playing with the 0-60times and adjusting the jetting and timingI trimmed 6/10ths of the time.
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You know what? Now that I think about it,
I'm pretty sure it was a Mustang II rack
& pinion. Hope I didn't "steer" anybody
wrong. (sorry about that)
Paul
Originally posted by pricher:I saw a Z that had a Power steering R&P
retrofitted from a Chevy II front end.
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I saw a Z that had a Power steering R&P
retrofitted from a Chevy II front end.
Required welding mounting points to the Z's
front crossmember so that the rubber "doughnuts"
on the Chevy R&P were used. Also required some
custom fabrication for the tie-rod ends,
but I don't remember the details. Obviously,
you could use a Chevy pump with this set-up,
but I think he was using a Nissan one (stock
L6 engine). The Chevy II parts are pretty
commonly used for Hot Rods and kit cars, so there
are a lot of aftermarket parts available.
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Will the TrickFlow heads even fit on a 305?
I thought the biggest valves that would clear
the small dia bore of a 305 would be 1.94"
and that the 2.02" used in most performance
heads would hit the cylinder wall. I know
that TrickFlow has repositioned the valves
so maybe they've solved that problem. I would
make sure before spending $900 on them though.
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Since I put a new 350 in my 240Z, I've
been having problems keeping the fan-belt
on. It often (not always) flys off on hard launches as the rev's hit about 6000 in
first to 2nd shift. I am using a stock
V-belt set-up with no accessories, ie just
the crank pully, water pump and alternator
(stock passenger side location). I am not
running a fan off of the water pump (electric). I have double checked the alignment and tension and they both look
good. Is this a common problem for Chevys?
Any suggestions for solutions? Thanks.
Paul
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I have run both a Performer and Performer-RPM
w/ Holly 600 and 750. I use a low profile
(dropped) aircleaner and stock hood. The RPM
is about .75 inch taller than the Performer.
I am running the JTR setup INCLUDING the .5 inch frame rail spacers. The RPM might not
fit without them.
Paul
quote:
Originally posted by ZR8ED:Which will fit under the stock hood? I'm concerend with clearance, and don't want to change or cut my hood.I will be getting an aluminum one..edelbrock seems to be fairly cheap and plentiful...BTW with a 650 holly carb.Scott.
Sobering L28 dyno results again!
in 6 Cylinder Z Forums
Posted
Hey! That would be me! http://zccw.org/Club/MembProfile/PaulR/details.htm
Yes, our club has put on 3 dyno days up to now. I have to admit, I expected higher numbers for my set-up (Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam intake, carb, flat-top pistons, etc). Edelbrock advertises this package at 420HP (flywheel). I'm sure I can get more with some tuning, but 420HP minus 20% for drivetrain loss is about 340HP at the rear wheels... I doubt I'll find that much.
I have to admit that I was totaly impressed by a late model Toyota Supra at the last Dyno day we had... over 500HP at the rear wheels! (Big turbo and lots of boost)
[This message has been edited by pricher (edited February 07, 2001).]