PaulR
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Posts posted by PaulR
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Thanks Tom, its just your basic 2.5 inch coil-over components that allowed me to get more backspacing. I've added a couple of more pictures to the link:
That show how I checked for clearance with a cardboard template before I actually had the spacers machined. This was done with the bottom spring perch lowered all the way. I run them a bit higher which gives more clearance.
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Originally posted by z ya:Do you have to fiberglass those things in tolook like his? Or do they just bolt up????
You have to rivet/bond, fill, sand, paint, etc. Definitely only a job for someone with good body-working skills. The inner fender has to be cut and fiberglassed to the new flares as well.
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OK, found my MSA catalog... Yes, these are the "Sreet Flares" p/n 50-1552 They cost
about $100 per pair when I bought them 3 years ago.
Paul
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Here are several pictures I took of the bottom of my Z when it was up on a rack. Thanks to Duane Bender of Motorworks Ltd. in Bellevue, WA for allowing our Z-Club members free access to his shop for a day (had to get that plug in)
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Hi Paul, glad you found the HybridZ site. I saw Paul's ride at Port Townsend and it is really nice. SBC set up for high speed rally's. I took some pictures at the meet and will post them when I get back from vacation... BTW, NWZ and ZCCW are having a combined drive to Mt. St. Helens. Checkout the web site at:ZCCW for details.
The other "paul"
Paul R
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Originally posted by Paul Z:I'm new to the site and from the Portland area. The best way to get together is to come the the next North West Z-club meeting. They don't have an "attitude" about V8 power, they just want to have a good time. You can view their schedule atI met a couple of the members at the Meeting of the Mindz in Port Townsend, WA last week end. Good Guys.
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Thanks for all the help in trying to get these links viewable. I did some research and its true, geocities wont let you link to files from another non-geocities site, but you can link to a page. So, sorry for the confusion. If you still want to see the pictures, i put them on this page:
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I finally got my new rear wheels installed and would like to share them with you
These are Cobra "R" copies from Performance Wheel Outlet
But... the reason I went for these rather than OEM Ford is that they are available in 10.5 inch wide! I wanted to get as much tire as possible under the rear and these fit the bill. They are 10.5 x 17 and I have 275-40-17 tires mounted. In order to get these to fit I had to use coil-overs which allow me to use about 5.5 inch backspacing. These wheels are +28mm offset, so I am using a 1.25 inch bolt on spacer to achieve the right spacing. I am also using flares from Motorsports Auto and I had to re-drill the hubs for 5-lugs.
Now I have to do the fronts!
Paul
[ August 16, 2001: Message edited by: Paul R ]
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I have some 10 inch wide by 15 inch wheels for sale. Check out my ad on the Buy/Sell Forum.
Paul
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Pete's right, the behaviour you describe is normal. Thats how mine has been working for years. As for the indicator light... I've hooked mine up to a piezo "buzzer" as well as an indicator lamp. Lets me know right away if I throw a fan belt... which was happening frenquently untill I installed a Moroso deep-groove crank pully. It doesn't take long for thing to get real hot if the water-pump stops turning (same belt)
Paul
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I'm in the process of re-drilling my rear stub axles for a 5-lug conversion and I have a question.
The rear stub axles on my 240Z have a formed sheet metal plate that is retained by the heads of the wheel studs after they are pressed in. Is there any reason to try and keep this piece when doing the 4 to 5 lug conversion? Its not obvious to me what it is for and I doubt I can redrill it anyways. What has everyone else done?
Thanks for the help.
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I did some quick "back of the napkin" calculations and figured that removing a .5 inch dia cast iron slug, at a radius of 2.25 inch (half the bolt circle dia) would be balanced by adding a .05 ounce wheel weight at a radius of 7.5 inches (ie, a 15 inch wheel). I don't honestly know what wheels are typically balanced to, but I bet they don't get anywhere close to 5 hundreths of a ounce. So I would say the imbalanced caused by redrilling 4 to 5 lugs would be insignificant.
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Like Pete said, you should modify a closed-end wrench. Here is what the one I use on Z half-shafts and drive-shafts looks like. The one on the right is a standard Craftsman wrench. The one on the left is a cheapie that has been ground down around the perimeter and necked down at the base. I keep it in a drawer in my tool box with a bunch of other "special" tools.
[ April 29, 2001: Message edited by: Paul R ]
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I was doing a search for spacers (adapters) awhile back and found this site:
They are $50 each for the 1 inch thick.
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The shape of the pan is the easiest way to tell the TH350 from 700R4. Try this link for pictures:
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Here's a good start:
http://kmhafer.homestead.com/files/wheelFAQ.htm#The%20Wheel%20Chart
Its a list of wheels that fit the Datsun 510, which we all know has the same (4 on 4.5) bolt pattern. I used the 15" 200SX wheel centers and had 10" wide rims welded on as a low $$ alternative 'till I get my 5-lug conversion done.
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I used the following circuit to control the lock-up on my 700R4 trans. http://www.geocities.com/paul_richer/trans_schem.pdf
When I want to engage the lock-up, I push the button (switch 1), and the converter locks and stays locked, unless I apply the brakes. If I push the brakes, the converter unlocks and stays unlocked until I push Switch 1 again. The toggle switch disables the circuit completely (converter never locks). The idicator lamp turns on when the lock-up is engaged.
I've been using it for about a year now and I think its pretty usefull.
Paul
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Adam (and anyone else interested),
From the Z-Car Club of Washington's activities page: http://www.zccw.org/Club/Activity.html
It's August 17-19, and yes, everyone is invited.
Paul
quote:
Originally posted by madmanadam:Originally posted by Ross C:You doing Pt. Townshend this summer? Looks like that might be one event I'll make.Ross,When is the PT. Towshend and is anyone welcome?
Adam
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As you can see, I'm using a "no-frills" strut bar... a straight piece of polished stainless steel tubing (boat railing stock) with the ends flattened and drilled to mount to the forward most strut stud. This was described in my JTR manual (1st edition). Cheap but effective
Paul
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If you try to slide the rod as close to the crank as possible is there is still a gap between the rod and crank? (is that maybe the .005 gap you were refering to?) The rod should be able to slide up tight to the crank. If it doesn't, I would bet that Terry (BlueOval) called it correctly and the rods are in backwards. The "tang" on the bearing should face outward. ie, the tang the rod for cylinder 1 would be on the same side as cylider 1 (front drivers side).
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>Looks great Paul....BUT what's the ole butt dyno tell you !
>You getting that 1%/10 degrees? Any before engine bay temp readings?
No didn't take any temp readings, but it does seem a bit more responsive. I had always notice that the car seemed faster on cool mornings and got a bit soggier as outside temps went up... so I figure this couldn't hurt
>You doing Pt. Townshend this summer? Looks like that might be one event I'll make.
For Sure... I like the Port Townsend meets... a great mixture of ZEE's and ZED's
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Awhile back, there was some discussion regarding ram-air to help get cooler air into the carburetor. I was looking at buying one of the units from www.ramairbox.com but it didn't look like theirs would clear my front strut bar. I decided to try and make my own and with a little junk yard scrounging and a few pieces from the hardware store, I came up with this: http://www.geocities.com/paul_richer/Z8_RamAir.html
And it was a lot cheaper too!
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I ran across the following site that sells Cobra R wheels:
http://www.performancewheeloutlet.com
The interesting thing I noticed was that they have some BIG sizes (like 17x10.5 and 18x9)
in 4-lug as well as 5 lug! The 4-lug is described as "for earlier Mustangs". Aren't those the same bolt pattern as a Z? (I'm not sure).Prices are pretty good too (ie, $185 for silver finish 17x10.5) If the bolt pattern and backspacing of theses wheels are right, they could be a good alternative.
Paul
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Its not obvious to me why the companion flange couldn't be bolted to the CV adapter instead of welding it. Is there enough "meat" in location of the 4 companion flange holes to have tapped holes in the CV adapter to accept bolts?
Setting the engine back a further 3/4"?
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
Tim, that is pretty much what I am running: A points-style distributor with a Pertronics Ignitor which is triggering a MSD-6AL ignition module firing an Accell Super-Coil. When I made up my JTR set-back plates, I added an additional .5 inch offset, which offsets the mounts by 4.0 inch (vs 3.5 for the JTR plates). Like Pete says, its not a big difference and I certainly wouldn't go thru all the trouble to change an existing set-up... but if you're starting from scratch... why not?