z_webslinger

Just wondering what ultimately happened with this. Was your getup and go improved with further troubleshooting or is the TPS still suspect?

I'd be interested in meeting up for the next Northern VA event/get-together.

Tires are brand new Sumitomos, and only have maybe 100 miles on them. I had checked them just for kicks and they also appear perfect. I have the Toyota 4x4 brakes. I'm not sure of what "beding" the brake pads entails. I've looked over the suspension, but honestly, I'm not going to say I know exactly what I'm looking for other than something loose or apparent. I've had my wife turn the wheel left/right while I look for issues, but I've not found anything.

Also worth mentioning: When I brake and don't downshift, the vibration is the heaviest. (It jitters the steering wheel too) Now...when I downshift AND brake simultaneously, there's almost NO vibration at all. Just thought I'd throw that in there. Yet another reason I'm a little apprehensive to just assume rotors. I am going to have them checked with a dial indicator per suggestion above, but something tells me they'll check out ok.

The rotors are 100% brand new and in perfect shape. I just can't figure out why it only happens under braking. The symptoms and the actual feeling you get when driving it are telling you "HEY, MY ROTORS ARE WARPED!", but I've checked them thouroughly and they are perfect. Would the need of an allignment really make such a dramatic vibration under braking? Could a steering rack assembly have anything awry that would/could cause this?? I dunno... just wondering out loud.

Well guys, I replaced both sides today with the kit from MSA (the aluminum and nylon socket setup). The vibration under braking unfortunately was not addressed by getting the T/C rod bushings right. The Z was up on a car dolly when this happened. The front tires are strapped down and the rear tires drag. I think that it must have been loose all along and once I winched down the front and then made turns while pulling the whole setup with my truck, it released the pressure that was on that nut previously and allowed it to work itself the rest of the way off. We'll never know if it was original or not, because everything that used to be on the T/C rod was lost on the road. Once the nut was gone, the wheel moved drastically forward and pulled it out of where it was in the frame... hence tossing all but the very last washer. Thankfully, you only need one of the big fat washers per side with the new T/C bushing kit, so I was able to use the extra one from the driver's side for the side that had nothing. Any further ideas as to what I should check regarding the persistent shimmying under braking?

Hey ya'll, Just thought I'd share a recent experience that will hopefully avoid at least one person some trouble in the future. I just moved from Tampa, Fl to Waynesboro, VA. In order to get my Z up here, I unfortunately had to tow it. (U-haul didn't think my v6 Nissan Frontier truck could pull their auto transporter) Well... I checked the Z every time I stopped... just to make sure all looked ok. Half way up to VA, I noticed the right-front wheel looked oddly close to the fender well. I then saw that the tension compression rod had somehow come out of where it mounts to the frame. I have no idea how in the world the nut worked itself off of the rod, but it did. It kinda ticks me off that Nissan didn't think to at least put a cotter pin at the end of the threads. I'm amazed that it hadn't come off some other time... like when I'd last driven it in Florida. Sheesh. Also, a question to the gurus in the community: Would a loose or loosening nut on the T/C rod cause bad vibration under braking? I'm wondering if that nut has been working it's way off for a long time. I have new rotors, calipers, tires, ect... and I hadn't figured out what was causing my bad vibration and shudder when braking... which stops immediately upon release of the break pedal. One would think rotors or something, but they're new. Anyways, my purpose of the post is to warn others about those T/C rod nuts coming loose. I put a second set of them on as a backup... plus I'll be checking them often from now on. Any help on my question also would be greatly appreciated!

I just wanted to add something that may help someone in the future. My problem was this: My turn signals and hazards were working just fine. I installed a stereo and shortly thereafter I ran into a problem. The hazards all worked fine, the left turn signal worked fine, but the right turn signal did nothing at all. No click, no blink, nada. I suspected the main plug that you have to disconnect when taking out your center console. The one for the hazards/turnsignals ect. I checked each pin for continuity and each one checked out good. I checked and reseated the connectors for the turn signal cellenoid thingy (small, round and silver located under the dash to the left of the steering column). Still no change. This is how I fixed the problem: I used PB Blaster which is an all-purpose lubricant/cleaner ect. I sprayed some into the steering column right where the turn signal lever is. I checked the right turn signal and found that it at least turned solid green. I proceeded to spray a ton into that switch and worked it up and down, front and back. Tried the turn signal again and WALLA! It's like new! I highly recommend trying this if you're having the above described problem. (By the way, the recent stereo install had nothing to do with the problem. It was just coincidental timing) Hope this helps someone!

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This site is called "Hybrid Z", not "V8 Z". That's nice that it started out as primarily v8 people, but we have since evolved. Change is good. Removing some of the topics that are Hybrid Z related sounds like a ridiculous idea. The more Hybrid Z related topics we can have, the better. Even a Z car sound system forum topic would be a good idea. The stock sound setup is horrible. Sharing ideas about speaker positioning, modding the interior to accomodate sound equiptment, etc. would be useful. Let's keep evolving into the best Hybrid Z site out there. I plan on doing the v8 swap one day, but don't trim down to an archaic, v8 only site. Keep up the awesome job of keeping idiots out.

Thanks Scottie.

Um, pardon the ignorance... but where in Georgia is this Z meet? And when? Anyone have details? Thanks!

AWESOME

Count me in for Tampa, Florida. Great idea.

I recently purchased their Front Air Dam II, their side skirts, and their Rear Skirt. They had a special and gave it all to me for $465 Shipping was steep at $95. I had a bunch of other stuff that I got from them so they just put it all in one box for the $95. That kit normally costs $510, so if you can get that for what you're saying... grab it. I don't really like the rear skirt and won't be using it. I personally think that it takes away from the incredible lines of the Z. It looks too "80's-ish". Purely my opinion. Obviously other people like it and that's why everyone's Z looks diffent in some way. Instead of the rear skirt, I took the rear bumper off and I'm having the back of the Z "shaved". Basically filling in the bumper shock holes, and a couple of other holes back there. I do like the four small oval shaped holes that are in that rear panel tho so I'm leaving them. Besides, they're symmetrical. Good luck!

That does sound awesome. Talk about trick!

Ok... when you say "switch", is that the actual switch on the steering column that you turn the lights on with from inside the car? And what is a relay? What does it do? Do you basically bypass the stock wiring by doing the described above? How many wires are we talking? Two for each side...positive and negative? How do you know what wires to tap into in the existing wiring harness?

I see these guru's suggesting that you test the voltage at the lights.... is that while the car is running, or not? Is it supposed to be 12 volts? Also, from what I've seen so far... is it accurate to replace the wiring before going with new/more powerful bulbs? If so, what EXACTLY do I need to get and where do I get it? Does Autozone, Discount Auto, ect. have it? Does Walmart? Sometimes people post these suggestions in terms that are rather foreign to someone with no exposure to the subject matter. So... I humbly ask that you spell it out like "headlight brightening troubleshooting for dummies" would.

Mike, how do I get a hold of Ross? Do you know how much appx. he has them for? Thanks for the replies guys.

Howdy all, I spend a lot of my spare time just reading thru the invaluable archived information in this forum. An incredible resource IMHO. I'm sure my answer lies somewhere in a previous post, but I can't find a clean-cut answer. I'm not a racer... and I just have the normal straight 6 that my 76 280 came with. I just did the front brake conversion from stock to the 79-85 Toyota 4x4 calipers. The new calipers and stainless braided brake hoses look awesome. I went with an 80 280zx 2+2 master cylinder and a 75-78 280z 2+2 booster. Everything bolted right up beautifully. All I had to do was trim the dust guard. Both of my front calipers were seized up before the conversion, so I can't tell the vast difference of stock vs. the Toyotas. I'm sure they're much better tho. It likes to stop on a dime now. (when compared to not stopping at all before, I guess that would be a bit of an improvement) I went ahead and got the stock rotors turned, and they're now barely within spec. I also noticed that the car kind of pulsates to a stop... I'm guessing that it's because the stock rotors are old and worn? Therefore, if I have to spend the money on new ones ayways, I want to get the best rotors for the $$... hopefully just bolt-on. No serious mods. So my question is: What are the best rotors to replace my worn out stock ones with in my situation? 280zx? 300z? .... Thanks guys!

Thanks for all the helpful advice guys. It's much appreciated. Anyone else feel free to add any info you have too!

Anyone ever attepmt this feat?

Has anyone rigged up an air conditioning system to fit from another type of vehicle? I'm trying to avoid having to spend 600-1000.

How hard is it to add air conditioning to a 280z that's never had it? Also, can you put the "new" air in it instead of the old type?