4.6StangRage

Very interested in this project! good to see someone wanting to swap a 4v mod motor into a Z! I have thought of doing this myself at one point.

I am thinking of eventually doing an Ecoboost 3.5. However I have thought of doing a ecoboost 2.3 out of a mustang. I think its all about what parts I find first when it comes time to do it. Im sure wrecked '15-'17 mustangs will be more common in a few years. I am also looking at trucks as well for the 3.5. A 2.0 would be pretty good as well especially since they are based off the duratec which is awesome!

I Think a cyclone 3.5 would be the cheapest way to go with this one however the added displacement would work out pretty nice. A ford MT-82 will bolt directly to it. That seems like the least expensive options. Have you guys seen anything about a similar swap done on anything?

Yeah I have not even checked out the cylinder walls yet so I am also concerned about that. I guess Ill make a determination when I figure out how severe it is overall.

I blew a head gasket on my L28 a few months back and since I dont start it up often enough, rust developed on the camshaft. Is there a good way to polish the rust off without taking too much material off of the cams? I was thinking of light grit sandpaper or steel wool. I was thinking tackling it with gentle pressure until it is gone. I understand if it caused pitting the cam is faulty but I just want to get it back on the road until I can either completely build another L28 or just go straight to my Duratec (or Ecoboost) build. Opinions, ideas? thanks guys/gals!

Hmmm, I know this is old but I am curious about wiring standard 5 pin relays instead of the factory harness? Has anyone done this because I was thinking of tinkering around with the idea.

Yeah a picture would be good. It would be apart of the EFI relay or ECU. I know there are mostly white wires in the loom and maybe 2-4 blue wires.

I used MAXI fuses to replace my fuse links. I just have not done it on my Engine control unit yet. alright, Ill check it out.

On my '76 280Z, I want to replace the current power distribution system with a better designed system. I have already replaced the 4 small links on the passenger side, now I want to replace the one which connects from the ECU to the battery. anyone have any suggestions on how many amps to replace it with? I know I can locate a diagram and go by the gauge of the wire which I think it is about 10 or 12 gauge. Any ideas?

I swapped a '77 harness into my '76 Z. the only difference is there is a 5-pin plug (I believe) which contains the circuit for the ignition coil pulse signal to the ECU which signals the injectors. on the 76 it is 4 circuits on the connector with a stay and on the '77 it is 5 circuits on that one connector. If I could point it out i would. it will take following the pulse circuit and determining what exactly is the difference. For me, All i did was cut a wire out of the harness and build a 2 pin weatherpack (that was all i had) and join the circuit together. I hope this makes sense.

Yeah its a taurus fan. I trimmed the shroud as much as i could before it bottoms out on the radiator. It will go in between the water pump and radiator but it touches the water pump.

Disable the pulse signal going to the ECU (you guys know, the circuit to pin #1 on the ECU) This one would not be obvious and would be difficult to figure out if you dont know the injection system in our cars.

As the title says, yeah I could use come ideas on the orientation of the cooling fan. This probably is a idea prone to failure so I was thinking of getting opinions from people on here. Option 1. Install fan in front and set polarization to suck the air through the fan. Good: there should be plenty of room to do it and I wont have to do any extensive modifications to make it work. Bad. Fan may not work properly in alternate polarization. Airflow might not be as good being done this way. Option 2. Fan from same position as above, but set to the stock polarization to blow. Good: Refer to above. Also, no extensive mods need to be done to change direction. Bad: Under-hood temps may be too high. This might not be too practical. Option 3. Attempt to modify fan to make it work and mount in stock location. Good: Well, yeah stock location is always better. I wont have to worry about whether it will cool properly. Bad: The modification could be a complete waste of time and I could risk damaging the fan and rendering it completely useless. that do you guys think?

The best and most definitive way of determining the parasitic draw would be to connect a ammeter inline between the ground terminal and the battery. Record the results before doing anything. Next disconnect the alternator (notate if there is a major drop in amps) DO NOT RECONNECT Next, Pull each fuse while noting any drops in amps DO NOT RE-INSTALL FUSES UNTIL YOU DETERMINE WHICH CIRCUIT IS IN QUESTION. I would do it this way because there could be different variables causing the drop. This method makes it so you dont get all wrapped up and running in circles and stuff.

The 2.7 is smaller than the 3.5, so it should work better. Ill have to utilize the existing wiring which wont be impossible, it will just take some time thats all. Plus, I have lots of time before this comes to the marketplace anyways so someone will likely have some type of direct injection PCM kit I could use if i opted out of the OE wiring. Yeah I know it could be an intense amount of wiring so I will be looking for the challenge. However the 2.3 ecoboost is tempting but I am still not entirely sure about that one. I am still thinking about the 3.0 Duratec out of the Lincoln LS but I still thinking about it.