4.6StangRage

PCV is needed to make it so the crankcase can Breathe. If blocked, you will likely have oil leaks. I would not eliminate this component.

I would tackle the system one side to the other. Check if there is spark at the plugs, then cap then, check the signaling device (your ignition signal) then check power or signal going back to your ignition module. My Z had the pickup coil go out, in fact mine was cracked. I would look into checking resistance in the pick-up coil which is in the distributor. If there is an open (OL, meaning out of limits) that means that there is an open circuit with in the component. I would Re-Check things just to make sure you did not miss something because it sucks to purchase parts that are unnecessary.

I have thought of the Ecoboost engine, the 3.7 out of a mustang would be pretty awesome also! This is a long term thing i am thinking about; I plan on using the L28E or L28ET for some time until i get the money to do the swap. I hope the engines will be more common in the junkyards by then.

See i really do like the 3.8, i can even get a displacement bump with a similar engine which is a 4.2 out of the f150 pickups. I am definitely looking for a light weight setup (all aluminum) which can rev good. I want a good power band and and for cheaper than a VQ setup. Quite a bit of fabrication would need to be done but it may be needed so i can have a unique setup.

I would go with a 3.8 out of a Thunderbird super coupe but i am thinking all aluminum, i am thinking of a lightweight and compact setup.

I have been thinking of an eventual swap for my '76 280Z and many different things have been going through my mind lately. One point in time i decided that the VQ35 is the swap i want to do, then especially lately I have been thinking that I may want to try to be unique. I have been thinking of these engines to swap into my Z 1988-95 SHO 3.0/3.2 (can use a M50D-R1, or a T-5 with a special adapter as a N/S trans) I have also been thinking about the Duratec Family of Engines. It seems like they work with a Miata trans or a Ranger duratec 2.3. SHO V8 (which is of the Duratec Family) would be cool because a small nice revving V8 would be unique but the output is not quite what i would like. Again this would be very unique but I would have to get some solid opinions on this particular engine. Duratec 3.0 would be pretty damn cool, it has decent power if the right 3.0 was found, it would be light and inexpensive. --->> Here is a swap someone did which uses a miata http://www.miata.net/news/v6.html The Duratec or Ecoboost engines are an awesome idea but It does not seem like the engines would be affordable. Anyways what do you guys think about my assertions about these swaps? I think the 3.0 is a pretty good candidate however i may be much better off aiming to the VQ as a goal for my Z. I think ultimately it would come down to what i can find for the least amount of money at the time when i am ready to do the swap.

That looks like the ignition relay. It serves many functions . Before targeting that I would charge the battery and do parasitic draw test with an amp meter (multi meter). Connect the meter in series on the ground side. First thing i would do is disconnect connections on the alternator. Do one connection at a time and see which one brings you down to at least .5 amps. If you did not find it there, I would then remove fuses until the the draw goes away. Do not put fuses back in after you check them because that may throw your readings off. Once you determine that circuit is causing the draw, specifically diagnose that circuit and repair the specific device or circuit.

It would be nice to see this done. It seems to be a nice swap not just only for the power output but when you get the power in rpms which i heard it has a nice powerband.

first of all, I would advise you not to attempt to replace the EFI harness with the aftermarket wiring setups (unless you have a system like Wolf EMS, MegaSquirt, or a refurbed stock harness. A Standard style Relay for the EFI can be used, but you need to know what triggers certain parts of the relay to do the voltage switching. There is a 6 Pin (or 5 pin with 1 stray pin, i think) connector which joins the EFI harness to rest of the Z harness, I would look into what you need from there. You need numerous relays (not entirely sure how many or what exactly they are) in your car and they are configured differently than a standard 5-pin relay. The large fuse you are asking about is called a MAXI fuse, some audio shops sell Maxi fuse blocks otherwise you can check out your local auto-parts store or look it up on painless wiring's website. Weatherpack connectors are expensive but are worth it and keep everything clean. I would recommend making the wiring in the column area longer to where they connect under the dash, I would use smaller pin connectors for in the column. Buy a Weatherpack tool because it will save you so much time. Wire sizes, length and Fuse amp ratings are to be taken into effect when wiring. Anything with an electric motor will draw high amps because they peak at high amps during the closing of circuits. Looking up some electrical principles would help in understanding how electrical circuitry works, trust me on this for I wire hot rods for a living. There is a lot to consider when you build a circuit. Protection? do I need a relay for this device? Does my relay have protection? When it comes to specific wiring, the original diagram will not be specific enough to help you, when it comes to this, you just need to do heavy research. Are you using the black/white diagram? These are just some things to think about.

I spotted an 81 Datsun Maxima at the jy the other day. Unfortunately, I did not have any tools on me because i was just looking around just for the hell of it. I am thinking of going back to remove the brackets off of the maxima but my problem is that i keep reading that i need power tools to remove the bracket and also that the brackets could be welded. I have read in other places that in 1984 they came welded and not the other years. Is any of this true? I am trying to do this on a budget and do it right so therefore i do not want to go through Maximum motorsports even though their kits look nice and are rather convenient. Is this setup worth my time or should I use a different setup that would be more worth it? 84-88 maxima brackets w/ 240SX calipers? for the Pro Drum brakes folk, I DO NOT WANT THEM, thanks for thinking about talking me out of it but Discs are totally worth it! Also, I have the tools to machine brackets if i cant get them at the JY, does anyone know where i can get the schematics for the bracket and possibly the S12-W spacer? Note: I want to use stock type rotors, I want to keep it inexpensive. Thanks for Reading, Randy

Those look awesome! If only they made a kit for Non OBD !! haha maybe pre OBD! systems.

Those are cool but I wish someone would make graphical 5" gauges.

Anyone thought of 1999-2002 Mercury Cougar Seats? Me likey.

Update: Nah I don't want to that swap. I am looking for more modern and more accurate gauges to replace the stock ones. I heard of something like defi gauges, does anyone have more info.

This would be a modification but almost no one would figure it out, but I would make a hidden switch which cuts the coil signal to the ECU. It would be a simple modification which only a Datsun Tech would know how to do and all it will do is prevent the needed signal from the coil to pulse the injectors to get to the ECU. This will prevent a hotwire and drive off or slamming the ignition (if either one even works). It will also prevent someone from being able to jam another key and starting it that way. It is simple and would take a few minutes as long as you know what you are cutting and splicing and assuming you don't install the switch in an obvious spot like next to the ignition switch.

I have a distributor I have yet to install. I suppose I could look into the zx distributor swap.

I am going to look into the delco remy alternator swap. I am going to get a bracket from a junkyard Z and modify it instead of possibly ruining my current one. 94 amps would be nice but i am not exactly sure of why i would need so many amps especially since i dont plan on installing any amplified stereos or anything like that.

I wish I could fix it but it is molded therefore it wont come apart.

I jumped the A post to the field post to test the alternator. I even loaded it with the VAT 40 and it worked within specs. To be honest, I was not 100% sure that the regulator worked. It was an educated assumption by inspection of the car. I determined that my regulator is faulty because of the massive voltage drop like it has an open on one part if the internal circuitry with only one path to go and that is through the 'R1' resistor.

I think my voltage regulator is shot. I get a considerable amount of resistance and from reading my FSM it looks like the P1 terminal is open therefore only giving the current the path to flow through the resistor.

yeah I should use a meter to determine field current. Exactly, that is what i am thinking, because there should be more fielding to the alternator. The pin that was missing on the 77 was the L terminal. In other words, the White/ red wire on the regulator. I think it is blue on the engine compartment harness side. I need to determine why the field strength is not where it should be.

I did about 75 percent of what you just said. The charge light does go through the white/red wire on the regulator. For some reason there is only 5 pins on the '77 I pulled the pigtail and portion of harness from. The signal coming out of the field section of my regulator to the alternator has a dim light when a test light applied. I know there is fielding going on but I am not sure if there is enough.

Another piece of information, My wiring has been modified and I discovered that it was wired incorrectly. I found a charging system diagram from a FSM online and re wired it. Now I have a signal at the field wire going to the alternator but I have no output coming from the alternator. In fact All I am reading from the system is battery voltage. At all points on the charging system, I confirmed continuity through all circuits. I am going to do a voltage drop on the field circuit because all i read was 2-3 volts on the field circuit. I think the reason why my charge light isnt on is because it is producing a minimal amount of voltage due to the lack of field excitation. I am thinking there should be battery voltage at the field terminal. I should read up on this because I think i am missing a crucial element, what do you guys think?

The battery drains slowly as the engine is running. The voltage reads as 12.4 when the engine is running and declines depending if i use my headlights or not. I do not get field signal to the alternator and i am not exactly sure why. maybe I have the wires coded wrong. My manual says 1975 and my Z was built 10/1975. I know it is a 1976 year model but my mentor (old friend) about 8 years ago said that I should get the 1975 manual. I have 6 pins going to the volt regulator but the regulator, which I pulled off of a 1977 has only 5 pins.

I'll look because it is a California model. I can remember some electronics under the passenger seat. Now that I am thinking about it, the connectors seem familiar.