4.6StangRage

first of all, I did an alternator test and found that my alternator works within Specifications even when loaded with a carbon pile from a VAT-40. The molded side of my voltage regulator was cracked so I replaced it with a used but working voltage regulator. I have everything plugged in properly and notice now I do not have the charge light on any more. Even though I dont have the light on anymore it still does not charge. I looked in my service manual and it states that the voltage regulator is interconnected to the Starter Interlock Unit, but I cant seem to find this unit in my Z. I have a 1976 280Z 4speed 2+2 can anyone show me a pic of where this device is located and what it looks like because the illustration in the manual looks nothing like what i have under my dash. Btw the Z starts and runs great, it is just not charging. if anyone has any ideas on what i can do or has any information on this interlock unitI would certainly appreciate it! Thanks, Randy

Excellent!!! Unless you want to keep the original look, you should consider replacing the Fusable links (at least the block of four links) with Maxi fuses. I know when I replaced mine it eliminated current and future issues. Look it up, there are some sweet and inexpensive setups out there.

Also, the Fuel injection relay is a critical component to whether the pump will run. I would make sure you check for proper operation, well after you take the systematic approach. seriously, dont go jumping around because I made that mistake in the past. Start from either side of the system. from the fuel pump in or from the battery out.

First off, I would check for spark. If there is spark, spray some carb cleaner or TB cleaner down into a vacuum port (makes it so you dont have to take apart your intake hose). If it fires up for a brief moment, you obviously have fuel injection problem. first of all I would check the injectors themselves because they could be the root of the issue. A grounded out injector will cause the PCM not to signal the injectors. Next I would hook up a noid (or make your own with a test light, jumper wires, and paperclips) light to the injector plug-ins, do you get a pulse? If so then you definitely have a fuel delivery issue regarding the pump and the lines surrounding it. If not, first I would make sure you have an oscillating signal at pin #1 on the ECU. The colored wiring diagram is available somewhere online and it is extremely valuable! It was my personal friend when diagnosing my Z. Definitely go with a systematic approach otherwise you will definitely miss things that could prove crucial. good luck!

Yeah That is true, It would be a challenge to get the electronics such as all of the coordinated systems to be able to work properly in a new chassis. I guess some of the easiest of new ford engine swaps would be the coyote 5.0 especially since ford makes a wiring harness dedicated to hot-rod building.

This would be a sweet idea if the ford 3.5L ecoboost can be hooked to a north/south config and suitable for a car. I am curious if the bellhousing for the 3.7 will work on the 3.5 ecoboost. If so, this would be an awesome build. Does anyone have any information about the new ford tech?

Looks like a solid plan, it would be nice to see some final pictures. The cruise control looks interesting but unnecessary for me.

I am having issues with corrosion in between my Fuel injection relay and my Dropping resistor. My friend gave me an idea that I should eliminate most connectors by soldering them together, therefore I am thinking of soldering my dropping resistors directly to my engine harness. I am thinking about using GM weatherpacks in areas that need disconnection. I want a perfect connection at my FI relay but I am not sure what route to go. I am on a budget at the moment so I need to figure how to get a solid connection with my resistor pack and FI relay. What do you guys think?

I am interested also, my switch is damaged and I would like a more modern setup. If you have time, can you do a breakdown of the wiring?

So why the 4.6, did you find more performance parts for it? or is it more bang for the buck?

Nice, a well planned venture! I hope one of these days I will too be able to embrace creativity. I personally have always dreamed of having a 4.6 in a Z!

I got it running yesterday and it was shorted injector wiring which eventually led to a shorted out injector. It runs on 5 cylinders but nevertheless it is running.

I am in envy! this project is amazing! looks cramped but i bet it is or will be totally worth it.

I located a short in my FI harness and repaired it and then I discovered a short in the corresponding injector. I unplugged the injector and the Z started up. btw I did use the EFI bible and the Nissan Factory manual and it did not mention to check resistance in the injector.

I already did that and yes it starts and runs for a few seconds.

first, I have downloaded the EFI PDF file and looked it over. I have done all of the no start troubleshooting I could until it instructed me to plug in another ECU and give that a try. A pulse is evident from coil to ECU I get an 11 volt signal to each injector terminal (in other words, no ground signal) I plug use my LED test light, which has green and red LEDs, red for power and green for ground and i get a pulse in that case not when an incandescent bulb is plugged into the injector plug. I have consistent fuel pressure, spark and compression is normal. I have used artificial fuel to confirm this along with the conventional methods I have tested all circuitry coming from the ECU and everything is going where it is supposed to. All signs point to a faulty ECU, but I am nervous about replacing it. I want to be sure about it and i want to test the unit itself. I swear up and down that there is a way to Test the ECU by continuity and resistance values through pin to pin in the 1975 Datsun 280Z factory service manual. Does anyone know where to point me when it comes to finding a proper diagnosis on the ECU itself? Thanks for reading!!

Hey Tony, Is it critical how the individual resistors are wired? I made sure the Positives were properly wired but I may have mixed up a couple of resistors. Can you shoot me in the right direction if i am on the wrong path? thanks!

Nice, thanks for the info. I wired the dropping resistors with a 10 pin connector. Unfortunately, I was not able to get a weatherpack connector but I got one that is almost as good. Now I am having issues with the connectors that are plugged into the injectors. I am hoping I can pick up some new connectors at a junkyard temporarily

I have a 1976 280Z and I have been having reliability issues with the Dropping resistor connectors. Initially I want to replace the connectors with GM Weatherpacks, but I cannot find any 6 pin connectors locally. I find it essential to have the six pin and a 4 pin connector opposed to having (2)4 pins and (1)1 pin which would be readily available where i live. I was thinking is wiring the resistors directly to the EFI harness by soldering and heat shrinking the wires carefully. I would have to exercise heat control because I would not think these would handle too much heat. What do you guys think about the direct wiring method?

Hmmm coyote 5.0, now that would be impressive!!

Yeah I am interested also!

Yeah, I have a '96 ford mustang GT for that. I can't wait until I can get it driving on the road. I need 280ZX rotors, install my "new" brake master cylinder. Hopefully I can get my clutch slave and master working. The minor things I need to do is get the ECM wiring harness configured and mounted properly, wire the fuel pump right (instead of being jumpered) and repair a fuel injector plug and then I will drive it home! These are exciting times!!!!

I would keep the car, you sell it and you will regret it. I was in the same boat as you when I was 18. I had a Z that did not run ever and now I finally got it started up 8 years later. I hope it happens sooner for you. Lastly, dont go buying injectors unless you know they are faulty. Test resistance with an ohmmeter as it should read Close to 2.7 ohms. If they read fine, soak the tips of the injectors in decarbonizer. I ran into this when I got my z going the other day for the pintels were frozen in the injectors. I would do a power balance test before doing this

Yeah you read it, finally after eight years I got my 1976 280z running. This is a very exciting time because even though I have had eight cars in the past, I now can drive my first car!

Thanks tony, I appriciate the quick response! If anyone has any more info please let me know!