4.6StangRage

9rider, these wires changed between '76 and 77, that is why I have a weatherpack in place. I had to modify the connection because they were different by one wire and it was a crucial wire. I check injector pulsing with my LED test light and those can be found for pretty cheap. Seriously, Check pulsing at pin #1 on the ECU with a test light that will confirm that the ECU is getting the triggering it needs. If the triggering exists that is good. I dont know the exact specs of the injector resistance but if you find one that is Out of limits (or reads "OL") or has much higher resistance than the others. That will certainly cause an engine to die and not start up until you unplug the particular injector.

Here are the connectors under the dash. The ones that are using the Weather pack connection is the one that controls injector pulsing. Definitely go to the single connector, which will be a small square connector on yours (assuming that you have a '77) and check for pulsing on the Blue colored wire. Use a test light and probe it while cranking to see if there is a pulse. If you don't have a pulse your problem lies within this circuit. Also, did you try checking the resistance on your injectors? A shorted out injector will definitely cause your ECU to not fire the other injectors.

i cant tell from the pic for it is too small. ill take a pic of mine today.

Three things to check for that is required to run. Spray Carburetor cleaner into the intake to (as close as possible to the throttle body) then crank. You will determine whether you just have a fuel problem or not. Personally I undo a vacuum line spray carb cleaner down into the intake directly then reconnect the line. Then I crank to see if it fires.

Yeah the Pulse from the coil will go to the ECU Pin #1. That is what this Bosch system uses as CPS.

It should be under the drivers side dash btw.

Okay I did not see the information about the engine harness swap. I have a '76 which I swapped a '77 harness to. There was one difference in the harness which I had do modify my harness to make it start. There is a wire which sends a pulse to the ECU to pulse the injectors. Look at the wiring diagrams for the differences. I will post a picture when I get the chance but I am positive that is your issue because I had the same exact problem. I dont remember to precisely what size of connector it was but one harness had a 4 pin connector with a stray connector, and the other harness had a 6 pin which included the stray wire. I think the '76 had the 6 pin and the '77 had the stray one.

That was how i diagnose a no start, I missed the running for 2 second part, haha. There must be something that keeps you from getting fuel. Ill have to think about that. I was thinking of your MAF not opening to trigger the fuel pump, because iginition signal will do it to start the engine. You might want to have the fuel pressure gauge on while you attempt to start the engine. This situation seems familiar so i will come back with more information.

Nice, i envy that! i wish AutoX happens where i live.

First of all I would spray carb cleaner into the intake manifold, that will be sure whether it is a fuel problem. If it starts check if there is pulsing at the injector by plugging a test light into the injector plug by probing one side and grounding the other. I would use a paper clip to interface it into the plug and use jumper wires. crank for pulse. If there is a pulse, check injector resistance on each injector. If you find one with improper resistance, unplug the injector then attempt to start it. If no pulse, the wiring should be checked going to the ECU and to the Ignition module.

I would not go with an automatic, slap a T-5 on there! I have an automatic mustang and i love the car but i think i would like it better if it was a manual. Automatics are heavier and require more maintenance, they also deliver less power to the wheels. Just my .02

Plus your alternator need the signal from the battery to work anyways (field signal) and yes I dont recommend it either, back EMF is not good on the diodes.

There is a connector difference between the two harnesses. I did the exact opposite. I have a '76 in which I installed a '77 harness on to. The difference is a connector right under the passenger side of the dash which sends the pulse to the ECU for the injectors. In your case you will have a stray wire which will needed to be adapted into a plug that has 5 pins. I am positive that is your issue, you might want to compare differences in the harnesses.

Yeah I have noticed that about the Zetec/duratec naming. And I am quite familiar with the duratec 4 which i want to install into my focus. I drove an Escape with a 2.3 in it and it had good get up and go, I can only imagine it in the focus. That one in particular is a pipe dream for the fact that I wont likely get to that car before I get a newer focus. I am curious if the 3.5 duratec shares the similar bellhousing bolt pattern and pilot bearing size and other dimensions. I was told it was different. Looks like I have a great deal to research.

Btw I searched for the t5 stuff with minimal results

http://quad4rods.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=18&category_id=2&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=100041 Here is a T-5 adapter, thanks Scorob! I will have to look around some more and find an even larger aftermarket. I have done some research and found some but this one. This is a big deal so i will make the job quite a bit easier. I have a t-5 already but i think it is from a S10 Blazer. if anyone knows where i can find rebuild kits which will make it handle more torque that would be awesome!

Yeah I thought of the VQ engines or the VGs but again I want to be more unique. Yeah I will pay when it comes to time and money (in a way) for fabrication but i think it would have good results. Yeah there is a Getrag 5 Speed manual that comes on these but they are not strong enough to last on the Jag V8 that came in the Lincolns therefore the torque produced by a modified Duratec will destroy one of these. I Am thinking of adapting a t-56 to it and there is somebody online that adapted a t-5 to theirs so i dont think it could be too different.

A V8 is a cool option but I dont want 2 V8 powered cars. You are talking about the coyote 5.0 V8, Right?? I want mine to be unique, powerful, and awesome handling. I want to drive my L28 for a while, then I want to eventually will do the complete restoration. I plan to chop off the roof and therefore delete the horrible sunroof that was installed years ago and get rid of plenty of bondo and rust.

On the f150 ecoboost, I would want to do that but I am trying for something that will cost a fraction of the cost. If i can attain one for relatively inexpensive I would go for it. thedarkie, I am thinking the exact thing. I would go for RB but I want all aluminum and the compact nature of the V6.

I know people who race these 3.0 V6s in their Contours. They seem to have an decent aftermarket and they are pretty common. They come 235hp stock and N/S configurations exist except the stock getrag would not last with the power i plan to put to this. Noble built a 450hp version of this engine. There someone online who made an adapter for a t-5 to adapt to the duratec. Personally I would want a stronger trans, maybe at least a t-56 6 speed or a better tremec. What do you guys think??

I am big into the Duratec 2.3. I drove an escape with a 2.3 and it has quite a bit of power. For an SUV it got decent mileage and it has 170hp, If boosted you can only imagine!! I also like the duratec 3.0 which are quite common and also come in a N/S configuration. I am critically looking into the Duratec 3.0 or 3.5 if they are similar. I was told the 3.5 was different but i need to research more on that.

I know the 280ZX distributor setup with the smaller ignition module is a by far simpler conversion. Look up that setup, i think it will work well if not better.

Hmm I hope I am not Threadjacking but I found a T-5 out of a GM vehicle. I did not take the time to pull it myself, it was already out and it was free. I heard and read that the T-5 out of the Nissans are different than the ones out of a GM or a Ford. I think it is the input shaft is different, is that true?

I am not sure about the sensors which i need to look at myself also. I know I soldered some 1990s ford escort injector plugs on and they work amazingly. They lock on and they have grip tabs on the sides to remove them when needed. They are common and cheap.

I would recommend finding a bracket at a picknpull or any jy of some sort and cut that one. If i am not mistaken you can use any alternator bracket from any L series engine and just drill the sucker, it is definitely worth it. I am not exactly sure what kind of amperage you want but you can get stock 95 amp alternators for cheap. In the aftermarket i think they can go up to 140 amp. They are versatile that is all. Personally i have done two of them and I have had good results so far.