fyanrudger

Finally had the time to work on the car. Definitely not the best job ever...I'm not great at welding, my level of patience was low, and knowing the fact that no one could see the work without pulling a fender or looking way too close will ever easily let me decide to lap weld a portion of the donated piece. But overall, taking the time to cut the bad portion out and prep the new piece made it short work.

I found a donor pillar relatively easy on here and got the part a few days after, but work took over. I'll post up a couple photos when I get it to it hopefully next week. Doesn't look too bad to fix, but not fun either.

I thiiiink I have Subtle Z fenders and the "mud flaps" are much smaller and they flare a bit more than those...at least from the look of the photo.

Thanks for the tips...definitely thinking a donor car is the way to go. I'll be on the hunt and hopefully can source a replacement in the next week or so. Thanks a lot. Nelsonian...I'm about to send you a PM.

Fixed floors, rails, rockers, battery tray/firewall...and this is the last of the rust on my car. An odd spot, at least in my opinion. Where's the source of all that moisture coming from? How high does rust like this usually climb up the pillar? Any advice on fixing it? I doubt anyone sells a panel and getting this made could be difficult. Donor car, I assume? Thanks.

My car and I were there. The real ugly one that was six different colors and no headlights, hah.

Same question. I'm also in the market.

You guys couldn't come to an agreement. You're both insulted for your own possible fair reasons. I do believe Max was out of step to say buyer beware when in fact, he wasn't a buyer ("inquisitive comment" noted, but still). Time to move on, fellas.

Hope so. That's the general purpose of my car, haha. Got two degrees of camber and, I believe, 5 degrees of caster on my car with just them.

If anything, I'd advise not ordering from Zforce. Aside from his past, I just had a five month experience with him that ended with a sub-par product.

I did...good turn around time and everything is good so far. His e-mail is krecs1@hotmail.com.

Hah. Genius! I may copy ya the next time I take get frustrated taking the seats out.

The rears are a pain. I was working on a short timeline and I honestly didn't even think about redesigning 'em. If you decide to contact him, maybe you guys can cook something up.

I thought the Bad Dog seat brackets were a little expensive at $240 + shipping for the pair, so I hit up a guy locally that has done some work for me in the past about making some seat brackets. I gave him my old passenger side brackets and he made these up. Although they were short a couple of tabs on the rocker (my fault, as they were cut off the stock unit I supplied), they went in pretty much seamlessly. I paid $160 for em. He said he's saving the stencil, so he can make more and I'm sure he could make some adjustments if you want them to be lower, etc. Just figured I'd post in case anyone else is looking for brackets. http://ironcobras.com/ or @ironcobrasfabrication on Instagram.

Ahhhh, thank you. It honestly never occurred that they'd be SAE....took the bolt to a local hardware store and 12x1.5 was the closest match. I chocked the bit of slop up to the extremely tired bolt. I'll take it back tomorrow and confirm it's 7/16" -20 before I order just to be sure. Thanks again.

Looking for eyebolts for my four-point harness. Where'd you get yours? I usually go to mcmaster.com for everything but they only have 12x1.75? http://www.mcmaster.com/#general-purpose-eyebolts/=qgt0il

Revisiting because the car is almost back on the road and I'd like to track down the issue. When I let the car idle the next day (engine was warm), I was able to adjust the fuel pressure up...I wasn't able to do that when I was having the issue. So, assuming the lack of resistance from the floats is the issue, what would the culprit be? Blown fuel regulator? Sunken float? Needle open?

Got everything all buttoned up...psyched. I already por15'd the floors on both sides, but what do people use for DIY undercoating? A search on here showed that no one was happy with spray can stuff.

After thought, would heat/prolonged driving time cause the adjuster to act differently/allow different fuel pressure when cold and hot? I know some are oil-filled, so they read differently, but the car generally runs fine. Unfortunately, I tore the car down shortly after I made this post to do floorboards/rails, so I can't drive it to diagnose for another week or so.

I don't believe it's the gauge, as the car is actually dying when the gauge is reading ~1psi and adjusting the gauge when cold brings the psi up or down...although adjusting it while hot (while I was having the issue) did not bring the pressure up at all, which led me to believe it's the pump.

Ahhh, I will have to read that. Basically where I'm at with the jack stand under the transmission (had to remove the mount to get at portions of the floor) as Morbias brought up below. I'm still torn on pulling the other floor out...I feel better about it now...but I'll have to see how this progresses over the next couple days. There's a lot more "massaging" to be done on the Zedd floorboards than I expected.

My apologies...body chapter?

Drivetrain and strut bars are in place. Inner rockers are solid...I assume you meant "you 'shouldn't' have a lot of movement", right? Hah. Getting new mounts made so I removed the seat rails on the passenger side, but I suppose I can remove the floors/rails and leave the seat rails on the driver's side until the passenger side is fully welded in and remove them last minute.

Doing Zedd floors/Baddog Rails. I'm doing the prep work and buddy is going to come next friday to officially weld things in. I just pulled out the passenger side pan and want to do the same for the driver side, but I read that it's possibly not advisable. This info came from a how-to/site that had the car on a rotisserie. My car is on stands and completely level front/back and side-to-side. Is the car prone to twisting/sinking without the floors and rails half-hacked off? Thanks! *Sorry for the double post. Should have been in this forum...

Doing Zedd floors/Baddog Rails. I'm doing the prep work and buddy is going to come next friday to officially weld things in. I just pulled out the passenger side pan and want to do the same for the driver side, but I read that it's possibly not advisable. This info came from a how-to/site that had the car on a rotisserie. My car is on stands and completely level front/back and side-to-side. Is the car prone to twisting/sinking without the floors and rails half-hacked off? Thanks!