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Everything posted by Z_Dust
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Has anyone ordered the extruded aluminum fuel rail from Kinsler. How would you rate their quality? I'm thinking of ordering a couple of feet and finish it at my friends machine shop. So far they are the cheapest I've seen for 13.95 per foot. Thanks
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I would recoment that you go and talk to your local custom car audio shop. Usually these guys can whip up some pretty cool stuff using fiberglass and/or carbon fiber. I had a guy locally to build a custom low profile fiberglass midrange speaker "box" that replaces the kick pannels using same mounting bolt pattern. Good luck
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My starter just went out too last week. While looking for a replacement I noticed that the specs were the same for 77-79 as far as power consumption. If it turns slow it's probably just a bad starter, or you have some super high compression. I purchased a remanufactured one from a local auto parts store for <$50.00 with core. Replace it and you shoul be OK.
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I'll give this a try. I'm no Z expert but I have heard that the problem you are having can be caused by having the wrong ballast resistor or none at all with your coil. This in turn creates a spark that is way too hot and ends up burning the rotor . Maybe the previous owner installed a new coil and bypased the ballast upon installation. rotor caps are fairly chep. Good luck. I think I am at least partially right on this one.
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Check this place out. They sell red 5mm, 8300cmd, 23*, 630nm LED's in bulk. It seems a bit pricey but LED's is all they do. I ordered a LED' cluster replacement for my Mag Light from them last year and it was fairly good. WWW.theledlight.com
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Well, I replaced all spark plugs and used the car for a couple of days. I just removed the new plugs and they are covered by a loose black carbon like soot. I'm thinking too much fuel or retarded timing. How do I know if the plugs heat range is the correct one. How can I adjust a/f mix.
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If you are going throuh the trouble of doing a swap migh as well go with the ZXT engine. You will be very happy with it and there's plenty of room for HP upgrades down the road. The swap is basically a bolt on. Yes you will run into some minor probles as is the case with any swap project. I bought a wrecked 280zxt for $600.00. Take evrything from the ZXT, engine, transmision, flow meter, wire harnes , ECU, and move it to your 240/260?. Don't hurry it, Take your time. For me the wiring is the least fun part.
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Thats what she said!!! On a more serious note. It's not dripping wet but it is shiny. Not oily shiny but gas/liquid shiny. Smells more like gas than oil.
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My 77 z keeps fouling plug #6. I take it out clean it and it runs good. After a couple of weeks it does it again. It feels like #6 just shuts down. When I pulled the plug it looked wet. It appears to be gas fouled. Spark cheks out OK. Can it be that the injector is open all the time?
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Thanks for your posting. Thats what I was thinking of doing. I'll Follow the path of least resistance on this one.
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test
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As always, custom = $$$$.... 3" might be a little overkill unless you are riding with the big dogs on HP. If you want it bad enough go for it and let us know how it works for you.
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When using wheel spacers like the ones sold at Modern motorsports on a wheel with, say a 40mm offset. Does that mean that the spacer will compensate for the offset in such a way that the wheel will fit as if it was one with 0 offset? In essence positioning the center of the wheel in relation to offset in such a way that it aligns with the hub. If so, could it be possible then to measure the space available inside the wheel well and then try to find something that will fit in that space. Sorry if I'm not being too clear. I don't quite master the wheel lingo that well.
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Check this out. I found this while doing a search for the same thing. Good luck!!!http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/head.html
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Good ratchet set is a must and a good torque wrench (my only Snap-on tool). Get a good jack also. I use Craftsman all the time but I'm only a weekender-home-garage mechanic. I have broken a few and Sears always replces them, no questions asked.
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More than likely you will need a spacer for those wheels to fit. Go for it if you don't mind the spacers. some people just don't like them in their cars. me personally don't mind spacers at all unless it was a race car, which mine isn't. Spacers will allow you to choose from a much larger variety of brands and designs. So far I have not heard any major or valid complaints about them.
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I messed up during my search the first time and got no results. Got it now. I guess this thing is as usefull as a hydroscillator
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While searching around at ebay I ran accross something called an "electric turbo". Basically what they sell is some type of housing with an electric fan that installs at the TB. In theory it forces air into the TB, therefore allowing the engine to create more HP, right?. Is this a bunch of BS? would this be doing the same as a forced induction hood. I know enough to know that this in no way will ever replace a real turbo or a cam upgrade but would it help in feeding more air to the engine? I'm thinking the engine can suck air faster than that fan can push it in anyways, in that case it will just be in the way and probably reduce air flow.
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Lately when I went to start my car in the morning it would hesitate skip and pop until it warmed up. While warm it ran Ok but it was kind of weak.I was pretty sure it had something to do with the spark or fouled plugs. I replaced the coil with an ACCEL Super Coil and my Z is a completely different animal. I will replace the cables and plugs next week and hopefully it will be even better. I'm not sure if the old coil was really weak or maybe it's the new one that is so much better, either way I recomend it as an "OE" replacement. The car responds instantly and it pulls harder all the way up to 5K+. Even the exhaust smell is barely noticeable now . Soon I will have my N47 to go with my F54 and I will be smiling again. Needless to say I'm very pleased and just wanted to share this with people who can appreciate it.
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I use to have another brown colored 77z that my friends called the snickers bar. It ran great and pulled hard. Never did I had exhaust fumes problems wit it. I do remember that the pipe from the exhaust extended past the bumper about an inch and a half if not two. My current 77z can smoke a bad date off your car in three seconds flat, just roll down the windows. With the windows up it's very minimal, so I suspect some leaks.
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Well Pete, Basically from what I have read the easiest way to improve CR is to use the N47/N42 with the F54 block. Some of the guys here say that you can get as good or better performance off of a modified P79. To do this you need a good shop to do all the work and relatively deep pockets. There are postings about this topic for days. If you are like me, (champagne taste, beer pockets) then forget about the P79 and work with the N42 or N47. Its quick, it's easy and for the money, you cant beat it. I just got laid-off from work. That really puts a cramp on the spending. Let me know how yours turns out. I'll let you know about mine as soon as I get it done.
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I am considering increasing compression ratio by installing a N47 head to my F54 block. I hear that using a F54 block with the flat pistons mated to a N42/N47 head can most certainly cause pinging problems. Anybody out there with this setup that can give his/her opinion/experience
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Never mind. After doing a good search I found all the info I needed and then some. I feel smarter already. Thanks to all.
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I always thougt it was OK until I read this. Check this out and read the portion that talks about pinging and the N47. The following quote was "taken" from this site: www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/head.html
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Oh yeah a mild cam will be part of the equation