Scottie-GNZ

Pete, what would it take to have a copy of your loop made? Either the specs or have your machine shop make another. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

If anyone is interested, here are pics of the stock GN turbo I have for sale. Morgan, the 1st pic shows how it it is mounted on the GN and how it could be positioned on the VG30T. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

Hmmm. 6.0 in the 1/8 is projected to be a 9.42 1/4-mile ET. Thats awfully fast. Scarp, what ever happened to the GN you were chasing down? ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

Those brackets are used to fit 82-83 ZX rear disc brakes on a 1st gen Z. I do not have the measurements but I remember from my own comparison that the 82-83 has more pad area than the 79-81. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

Anyone know what his times are? ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

Rich, the flat brackets will not work with the 82-83 ZX brakes. Here is what they look like installed on my Z. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

My future turbo IS (yes, I got it) a PTE-51. I got it Friday night, slapped it on and ran today. Major spoolup problems at the line. According to my data logger, I did not get full boost until 3+ secs into the run, but still got it to run 11.53 @ 120.51mph 60' was horrible, 1/8 ET was slower but 98+mph. I suspect the problem is this custom 3" wastegate elbow and the wastegate puck is not properly aligned with the wastegate hole in the turbine housing causing bleedoff. Once I get it fixed, I should be running 10.90s @ 120+++ with a little more boost and tuning. That might be a little while because I blew an oil line or the oil pump and dropped 1.5 qts of oil on the track The entire engine is covered in oil. Normal oil pressure, no oil in water or vice-versa, no overheating. All feels OK but just a little rough. This might be an excuse to pull it and freshen up the bottom end in anticipation of 450hp So much for my adventure. The stock turbo I just took off is a T3 but huge by import standards. I do not know the specs, but to give you some idea, some turboZs hog out their compressor and stuff GN wheels in them. I am asking $275 complete with the wastegate housing and adjustable wastegate rod. If you are interested I will snap some pics and post them. It is "pretty", ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

My stock GN turbo is now up for sale. Makes the stock VG30T turbo look puny. Nice and tight, ported and polished compressor and adjustable wastegate rod. It is a Garrett, if you are interested in brand name. Went 11.50@117.24 with it. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

Guys, I have never been able to determine exactly what model Maxima had those brackets. I wasted more time, effort and gas scouring every junkyard in the Orlando area trying to find them. Dont waste your time, order them new. This is not your typical pickNpull part. Half the Maximas I looked at still had the wheels on with flat tires, because no one wants those horrid early Maxima wheels Ever tried getting the yard to pick up a car so you can see if you want to buy that $10 part? Ideal made mention that I bought them new but when I wrote the article I should have stressed the fact of how difficult it is to find them in the junkyard. Clint, of the 6 in your junkyard, you will be lucky if even one has the correct bracket. The most common Maxima bracket is not removable, so do not waste your time if you see that. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

The bracket that was welded to the crossmember to bolt up to the driver's side motor mount.

Morgan, glad to hear that the manifolds appear reversible. You are asking for comments/suggestions and I will make some, but please take it as advice from someone who has done a couple of complex swaps and is trying to help you avoid pitfalls. With both manifolds facing forward, you have eliminated the rear crossover pipe and move moved the turbo to the front. With that you should be able to move the engine back further. That should just about eliminate any concerns about the steering rod. You would then need a crossover pipe in the front of the engine with a "Y" into the other manifold pipe terminating with a flange for mounting the turbo. DO NOT consider any kind of flex pipe here. In fact, you want the absolute thickest pipe you can find. The turbo will be sitting on top of this flange and putting a lot of weight on the pipe, so consider some type of a bracket that connects the flange or the turbo to the front of the head to support the weight of the turbo. I strongly suggest you find a Buick Regal Turbo and study that setup as that is what you will need to do. Since you are going to custom make the support and flange for the turbo, do not limit yourself to the stock turbo as it is a POS!! MOF, I would suggest that you go with a stock Buick turbo as a performance upgrade and if you can get the original flanges and support bracket, then you just have to make mods instead of making everything from scratch. I have included a pic of my setup and hope I can help make heads and tails of it. The pipe in the upper right corner is for the TB so you can eliminate that from the discussion. The pipe in the middle/lower right is the compressor to I/C pipe. Between those 2 is a black flex hose and that is the inlet to the compressor from the air filter. That hose goes from the compressor to the air filter which I have on the drivers side forward of the radiator. The dark colored elbow on the turbine housing is a custom unit for more power and the stock unit is sitting on top of it for comparison. If you look to the left of the lower radiator hose you see the header (shiny) sweeping up at about a 45-degree angle with the turbine housing bolted to it. The circular bracket on top of the turbo is bolted to the turbo, sweeps behind it and is then bolted to the head and is the main support for the turbo. HTH, Scottie

Danny, seems there is one too many zeros left of the decimal point. That car probably has 2 3-wire O2 sensors at a dealer cost of about $65/ea and 1-hr labor makes $180 sound acceptable. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

Are you referring to the flange that comes out of R200 that the halfshaft bolts up to (4 bolts)? If so, that should pop out. I just removed mine last night and I unbolted the halfshafts at the companion flange and use a small pry bar to pop the splines out of the diff. Sure is easier than 8 bolts to remove a halfshaft. Scottie ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

Morgan, that would be an awesome swap in an early light body. My friend here has an original '85 RHD Silvia with the 1.8L engine and it is pulling close to 400hp. The Silvia ran 12.0 @ 119+ on street tires with lots of wheelspin as you can surmise from the timeslip. That engine is being tweaked and put in a stripped down early 200SX. In case you are wondering, the Silvia is getting an RB25. 250hp is easy. Save at least 100lbs, entire engine behind the front wheels and combined with a 4.11 diff from a 200SX turbo....... ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

Considering the incredible interchangability of early Datsun/Nissan parts, I would think so, but....... I will go find out. Scottie ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

For those that are interested, I checked with the driveline shop I use and this is what they gave me. Neapco, part # 1-0029BF They are about $15 and if you have the skill you can install yourself. My shop charges $8 per halfshaft (2 joints). To date, they are proving to be very strong units. HTH, Scottie

SilverT, as the owner of a Turbo Regal, I am surprised you are choosing to do a SBC instead of a turbo Z. Just kidding. Welcome. For a mild V-8 swap I like the '75. It was the 1st 280Z and had the nice features like wider trans tunnel, stiffer chassis and nicer interior. However, if you are going to have some horsies and a cage and frame rail stiffened, then go for the lighter early 240Z. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

This is the 2nd set of halfshafts which I had the solid u-joints installed. I just took them to the driveline shop and let them pop them in. Scottie

Any driveline shop should be able to get those for you but if not, let me know and I will get them here for you. Scottie

Here is where I am getting mine: http://www.fonebooth.com/forsale.html Scottie

I am planning on installing a set on the rear primarily to get wheel/tire clearance for eventually stuffing bigger meats in the fenders. I have a couple of questions: - What spring rates are you running? - How is the ride with that rate? - What did you do to hold the threaded collar in place on the strut? - If I adjust it to lower the ride height, do I have a concern about bottoming out the shocks? I asked this because I run the Illuminas at the softest setting and have major Z-car squat off the line. I do not want to reduce the squat because it is obviously working - Any problems with your setup? TIA, ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

If anyone is interested. http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/misc/octanebooster.html

I am currently running a -8 feed line from the tank to the fuel rail and using the original 240Z 3/8 feed as my return. Based on my latest timeslip, I estimate 450+ at the flywheel and I was running too rich so.... Of course, you need a pump that can deliver the volume and pressure and a FPR to regulate the pressure. I made a post a couple of days ago but I will repeat it. I advise you to run a 10-guage wire to the fuel pump. You might have 13+v at the battery but I can guarantee if you use the normal 16-guage wire, the pump will have not have enough voltage with that demand. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

Actually, Xylene is very popular among the turbo Buick crowd. In its purest form available commercially, it is 117 octane. The reason why it is so popular is that the Buick ECM and performance chips rely on the O2 sensor to control fuel mixture. In order to extract those ungodly HP numbers, very high octane is required and is only available in leaded form which quickly poisons the O2 sensor. Imagine relying on a contaminated O2 sensor to provide input to the ECM for fuel mixture when you are running high boost. This requires the sensor to be changed often and at $36/ea, it adds up quickly. Xylene can be mixed with gasoline safely up to a 3:1 ratio. At that ratio, using 93-octane gas, you get a resultant 99-octane concoction that is lead free and actually cleans the injectors. Because of its properties, a couple of ounces of some "top-end" oil like Marvel should be added. The Buick boys have been doing this years and there are no reported ill effects. I will be experimenting with a chip that runs in open loop mode and ignores the O2 sensor. I plan on using an EGT to monitor the mixture. If that works, then I can run pure leaded gas at the track and a lesser concentrate on the street without concern for the O2 sensor. If that chip does not perform as I want, I plan to run about a 7:1 ratio of 93 to Xylene for a mixture of about 96 octane on the street. If your car does not rely on the O2 sensor, then stick with adding a little race gas. If your ECM relies on the O2 or race gas is not available, Xylene is a proven and safe option. You cannot base any conclusions on what the F1 boys were doing. Remember, they were extracting 1hp/cc, REPEAT, per cc At 60# boost, that 1.5L engine was ingesting a mixture equivalent to 1L per cylinder. If we knew what the c.r. we could calculate the cylinder volume at TDC. We are talking about 1L being compressed into a thimble . I estimate the resulting c.r. to be about 27:1. Thats one massive explosive that requires "witches brew" as was said. Anyways, I am rambling, but F1 technology fascinates me. Not even todays AA/FD can match that HP per displacement. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

I would not rely on the 280ZXT pump. Remember that if you run a rising rate FPR, the actual fuel pressure will be static + 1# for each # of boost. E.g., tonight I ran 44# static (vacuum off) and 20# boost so I was was running 64# pressure at the big end. You want a REALLY good pump. I am running a Pierburg, which is a copy of the big Bosch pump. My recent timeslips indicate 458hp at the flywheel, so the pump delivers. I run -8 from the tank to the fuel rail and -6 from the rail into the original 3/8" line which I use for my return. One other thing I did which I highly recommend. The original power wire to my pump was 14-guage. I put a relay in the toolbox behind the seat (along with my proportioning valve) for the pump and used the original wire to trigger the relay and ran 10-guage to the pump through the relay. The battery might be putting 13+ but I guarantee the pump had less on the big end with that little wire. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html