Scottie-GNZ

Brian, sorry if I do not remember you specifically, but I remember the first visit to the track for the GN setup and talking to a lot of folks. I was still running the stock motor mounts and had no way to tie down the engine. The GN makes a lot of low end torque and the DP was actually hitting against the strut tower under power. I just wanted to see what the car would do and was easing it off the line. I have since gotten a polyurethane motor mount to fix that problem and to date have gone 11.50 @ 120+ and scaring the hell out of 10s ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

Excellent topic and posts. It is mind-boggling how someone can break a u-joint with the 6-cyl and others can race unbroken with mega-HP & torque. Like Mike, I snapped 2 when I had my L28T running less than 10# boost. I conceded a long time ago that the OEM setup will eventually break and at that point I will consider a solid rear. Those of us running tweaked GN engines are thumping out close to 500 lbs/ft torque because this engine puts out way more torque than HP (not a joke). I would, however, like to refute a couple of statements in earlier posts. Firstly, it does not take mega-bucks to setup and successfully run the IRS in drag racing or any hard racing for that matter. What I did was target the optimal combination and installed those pieces. For me that was an R-200, CVs with an adapter, and 280 stub axles. One of the problems I think people run into is trying to drag race with a road race setup that is too firm. The big swaybars, stiff springs and shocks are not what you want and in fact causes wheel hop. The resulting wheel hop can be subtle but damaging none the less especially on less than smooth roads. I went from 2.20s 60' to consistent low 1.60s with a launch that is very fluid. The combo that I eventually got to work was removing the swaybars, running a spring that was not too stiff (like 200# +) and setting the Illuminas on the softest setting. That brings me to the 2nd point about the infamous Z-car rear end squat being a disadvantage. If it is, then Derek, Kyle and I sure do not realize this because our cars run 1.40, 1.50s and 1.60s respectively. I am also certain there are some V-8s with IRS in that class on this very forum. The only thing that counts is the 60' and it does not matter you do it. I can see a mad scramble tomorrow with you guys ripping out your swaybars and digging in the garage for those soggy springs you did not put in the trash My point is, do not give up on the IRS until you have the optimal IRS setup or some regs dictate that you do. The improved fluidity on my launches was noticeable when I switched to the CVs. Remember that the stiffer the suspension the more you are prone to wheel hopping. Violent wheelspin might look cool but not only is the car not going anywhere but you are on your way to breaking something. I try not to get more than 10' of wheelspin off the line with 8# boost on a transbrake. It does not look spectacular, it is just quick. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

My advice is to not do anymore "testing" until you can determine you have the correct fuel pressure in the upper RPM range. If that is the problem, be glad you gave not already blown a head gasket or worse. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

Sorry to bring up this oft-discussed topic, but I need opinions. I want to install a fuel cell and have already cut out the spare tire well, so there is no going back. The cell must have the rear sump for drag racing, not break my wallet, and I do not care if it does not have a sender. The only ones I see that fit the bill are the poly cells. I have my eye on the Summit 12-gal unit with the foam. With its 17.5x16x10 dimensions, I could fit it with minor trimming to the existing floor. So, here are my questions: - What are the negatives with the poly units? I already have some negative feedback, but want to see if there are any others - Should the filler be under the floor and accessed by a trapdoor or can it be flush or above the floor? - Whats the opinion on venting? Is there some sort of check valve that will prevent fumes escaping when the pump is not running? Remember that the car is not my daily driver and when driven on the street, is just for fun runs or drives to the track (as much as 160 miles away). Right now I have a cavitation problem when launching hard unless I have at least 9 gals in the stock tank. $5.50/gal and I also think that contributed to me blowing a head gasket. TIA, Scottie

I agree with Morgan that most OEM I/Cs are not very efficient, but there are exceptions. We can argue all the technical points until we are blue in the face but the bottom line is that the racers know which OEMs work. You do not see powerful turbo cars using the Starion unit, but there is a 8-second Rotary here in town using an NPR. As for the NPR, I will continue to use it until I can design and make my own air-to-water or get a good buy on a used Spearco a/w unit. I expect I will be over 400hp (at the wheels) by then. This unit just flat works. As for the original question, The NPR I have has a core size of 19.3H x 16.5W x 2. It is taller than the standard NPR. Both are 28.5" at the widest point. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

Brian, is my car that odd-looking that you could not recognize it as a Z? Did we chat? ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

Myron, I posted the part number a couple of weeks ago. I know the brand is NEAPCO but do not have the part number with me on the road. Try doing a search on NEAPCO. My connection in the hotel is too slow. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

If I owe you a part #, remind me for what. Can you get the specifics for the turbo? Thats a little pricey unless it is special like a ball-bearing? Just had a chance to unpack from the Dallas trip and had to fly into Denver this morning. Quick in/out trip so I wont have time to meet anyone. Can you believe after 3 attempts to dial in, all I can get is a 9.6 connection. 9.6!! I thought they outlawed that connection speed ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

Myron, sounds like you have already made the decision to switch. However, I would say there is something else wrong like a misalignment or improper angles. I know those axles are not the strongest thing going, but your motor is not putting out anymore torque than a huffing GN. I am close to 400hp and Derek is close to 475hp and using slicks and we all have automatics. I am puzzled, but I guess it does not matter anymore. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

Pete, that was my first thought, and try as you may to clock them, bolt holes will overlap. Guys, I think you are chasing your tails. Despite high quality materials and welding, some folks have a problem with my setup just like I have a problem with the other setup that uses 14 bolts. BUT, the bottom line is that both are being used on high HP car, both work and the owners are pleased (at least I am). Ironically, a halfshaft is held together with 8 bolts and a driveshaft has welds on both ends and we ignore those. Anyone using the JTR diff flange for the driveshaft? What makes that any different from what I made? All 3 methods work, pick one. If you have a big torquer or run really sticky tires I would advise using the 280Z stub axle. Scottie ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

The passenger side is a tight fit to get on w/o undoing the strut. It can be done, but I find it easier to just unbolt the 2 bolts at the front of the control arm to give me the little clearance I need. Once in place, I did the following to test the clearance. I jacked up the outer end of the control arm to the point where there was the most compression on the CV. I then used a prybar at the diff end was able to get another .5+" compression. Of course the big test is my launch off the line with t-brake Cannot imagine anything worse except putting a wheel in a big pothole and then binding is the least of your problem ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

To anyone considering a turbo(s) on a SBC, let me add my $.02. To echo BLKMGK words, despite the incredible HP and torque increase possible, there is no additional load on the bottom-end especially if you drop the revs slightly. Turbos do not add load, they add HEAT!! If the bottom-end of a 4-bolt main 350 is good for 500hp, that does not change with a turbo. Where you need to be concerned is reducing heat, eliminating back pressure and maintaining the required A/F ratio. Remember that if you can run 1-bar (14+ lbs) boost, you effectively have 700 ci of intake charge in 350 ci of displacement. If that is not enough, it comes in compressed and is further compressed by the piston. That makes for a big bang If anyone is considering a turbo SBC, ironically, you do not want the big valve heads and hot cam. All the things that hotrodders yank out of stock engines so they can get more air like low-compression pistons, economy cam, small valve heads, you want in the turbo engine. Too big a valve and hot cams create reversion in turbo engines. The turbo does not need that kind of help to stuff the cylindrs The bottom line is, what destroys turbo engines is detonation caused by heat and lack of fuel. If you can control detonation, the HP is limited by the designed limit of the engine and your pocketbook. Sounds simple but thats the same priciple the F1 boys followed when they got 1400hp from 90cid with 75lbs of boost. Enough rambling. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

If you have to buy a new radiator, the Griffin universal 24x19 is a great buy. $188 delivered from Summit. It will require having some tabs welded so it can be bolted up in the stock holes and it does not have a petcock, but is sure cools and the aluminum looks good. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

BLKMGK, now that you have driven a GN, can you imagine that car with about 1000lbs less weight? Check with Gale Banks to see if he has any exhaust manifolds. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

Stony, my friend's name is Mark and he was in the Marines stationed in Japan. Dont know id MAZ is his nickname. BTW, Mark's Silvia is featured in the latest issue of Street Racer magazine. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

Donna, welcome. You will like it here Have not heard much about those plugs. When I ran my L28T, I experimented with plugs and felt the NGKs could not be beat for the L6. I hope these are not just another Splitfire. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

Folks, I believe you are falling into the "BIG, HEAVY V-8" trap again. Engine displacement and # of cyls is not an indicator of external dimensions. I am betting the SBC will fit just fine if you can get proper mounts fabricated. I am sure you have all seen pics of the TT in a 1st-gen Z compared to a SBC in the same chassis. Why would it be any different in a VG32? Ever looked under the hood of a late Mustang Cobra? Pull out that wide DOHC V-6 with all that plumbing and you will be surprised how much room is under that hood. Now, would I make that swap? NO! I would check with Scott (ZR8ED) on zcar.com and see if he still has that complete 95 TT drivetrain for sale. I came ever so close to making the 240Z/TT swap. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

Chris, I also plan on doing the fiberglass/lexan hatch and would appreciate any info you have, such as price, how you plan on mounting it, etc. Please email me if you do not mind. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

Pete, here is a delayed thanks for the driveshaft loop diagram. I finally moved into my new house this past weekend and I am halfway towards getting things back in order. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

Zach, here is a formula you can use to project HP based on ET, MPH and weight. Couple of things you need to know: - The resulting HP number might seem low and that is because it projects HP at the wheels not the flywheel like most crate motors. - You must be able to predict a fairly accurate MPH as that is the most important factor in computing HP. Remember, MPH is the true indicator of HP - You also need to have an accurate weight for the car, including the driver. (((MPH x MPH)/ET) * (weight with driver/1000)) / 9.1 E.g., you have a Z that weighs 2650lbs with the driver and you want to run 10.90 @ 122mph: (((122x122)/10.9)*2.65)/9.1 = 397.6hp at the wheels. If you apply the 80% rule, that is 497hp at the flywheel. Dream on. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

Interesting dilemna. The setback gives the rotary an advantage and the weight is worth about 15-20hp with better handling and braking. In stock form the rotary has more HP potential. The L28T can match it but you have to spend a lot of $$$ because Nissan choked the engine badly with the stock components. I was able to squeeze about 280hp (at the wheels) from the L28T with the stock turbo but I had to use an SDS programmable system, custom DP, 3" exhaust and bigger TB. If you bolt up a 3" exhaust to the rotary, the L28T will need all the above plus a larger turbo to match it. Now, there is something to be said for staying Nissan, but I will be the last one to argue that point ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

I am running a Buick 3.8L turbo with about 400hp at the wheels. Like Mike, I have a 6-pt cage, F&R strut braces. C-channel steel are in the works for the frame rails to reduce flexing. I am still running the stock IRS with an R-200 and CVs. With a trans-brake and 8psi boost, car launches hard and straight and feels rock solid at 120mph. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

You guys are right on the money with the importance of the driveshaft angles. Pete, I read the article a long time ago and could not remember where and thats why I told Philip to do the search. I could not come close to giving the exacting information needed there. Should have known it would be you or Terry, hehe. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

The bracket is made of 1" id square tubing with gussetting at the base for rigidity. I supposed if it was made of something stouter, it could be notched to eliminate the steering mod. The steering rod is mounted in a bearing with a plate that is bolted to the frame rail. I wish I had taken more and better pics. If I pull it next week, I will. In retrospect, there are other options. One is to do it like JTR and utilize the existing OEM mount bracket and fab a setback plate with the piece that fits in the motor mount for the big bolt. Because you have make this yourself, here is my advice for how to approach it. Bolt up the drivetrain and fit it in the car with a hoist. Put a jack under the trans and get it in an horizantal position that looks close to the final fit. Push the entire drivetrain back as far as it will go checking for clearance problems. Areas to watch out for are leaving some room in the rear-pass sideof the engine for the DP, clearance for the crossover pipe with the back side of the T/C rod on the pass side and front pulley with the crossmember (pulley should end up behind the x-member). Make sure you remove the original trans x-member humps in the tunnel. With the trans supported, lower the engine then place a floor jack under the pan with a flat piece of wood to distribute the weight. Try to have the engine level, then give some slack on the hoist to allow up/down and side movement of the floor jack. At that point you can start eyeballing fitment and mount options. This is a technique that has worked for me in the past on swaps for which there were no kits. Put the finsihing touch by using cardboard and masking tape to mock up the mount brackets. It will take a couple of shots but you should end up with a mockup that any good machine shop can fab. For the trans x-member I believe you can use the JTR unit. Your exhaust will be on the pass side when it passes the trans mount so you want the "hump" on the mount on that side. BTW, search this forum for good info on driveshaft angles. HTH and sorry if this bores others who are not interested in the 3.8L swap. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

Is anyone using a fiberglass/plexiglass hatch? What is the weight? Where did you buy it and how much? Any issues with it? Did you use the stock hinges and latch? Anyone have or know where there is one for sale? ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html