Scottie-GNZ

This is for the near future, but nothing like planning ahead. I plan to upgrade my front brakes to match the 11.5" Vette rear brakes. Not sure what I will be doing for brakes yet, but the obvious choice would seem to be the matching C4 12" or C5 13", if I can figure out how to adapt it. I can get the C4 for a song, but if it is too complex or about the same as one of the kits, then I will go the simplest route. However, the point of this post is to figure out how to fit the 17x8.5, 5-4.75, 35mm offset wheels. It seems obvious that it is not possible to punch out that lug pattern on the stock 71 hub. A 4-4.5 to 5-4.75 is the obvious answer, but the maximum thickness has to be .75". Is that even possible considering you need space to bolt down the adaptor to the original 4 lugs? What about this hairbrain scheme? Turn down the diameter of the hub to about 4.25", right at about the bottom of the original hole for the lugs. Make a steel disc, 5.25" in diameter with a 4.25" hole in the middle and drilled for the 5-4.75 bolt pattern. The disc would then fit over the hub, centered, trued and welded front and back. The thickness of the disc would be whatever I want. Comments welcomed but go easy on me . How much clearance is gained by going from a stock spring to a 2.5" coilover? Since the strut angles away from the wheel/tire as it goes up, how much addditional clearance would be gained with the additional 1" of radius going from a 15" to 17" wheel? TIA,

These might help. below is a pic of a complete 71 IRS with an R-200 diff. The other is a pic of the T-bird IRS which you should be able to pickup from a junkyard cheap, no more $3-400 complete.

The 84 rotor refers to an 84 300ZX (not turbo), 4-bolt pattern and vented. When used with the 280ZX caliper, it has to trimmed down slightly. Not sure about using it with the Toyota caliper.

Lockjaw, if you can spring for the big brake upgrade, go for it. However, my advice is to first find out exactly what the current problem is because if it is related to the m/c, booster or prop valving, you will be an unhappy camper after your upgrade. I am going 125-126mph and have no problem stopping with 82 ZX front calipers, 84 rotors and KVR carbon pads. I do have 11.5" Vette rear brakes but I have the prop valve adjusted towards the front. Good luck and it sounds like you have a runner there.

I did not list those because I do not know of any such documented swaps and the post seemed to be focused on a turbo solution.

No need no stinkin fan! J/K Fans are hard to see in any of my pics but here is what it actually looked like. BTW, this pic was taken to show the size of the "big" NPR compared to a Z radiator. HTH.

Your choices are: Buick 3.8L, Chevy 4.3L, Nissan 3.0L SOHC, single-turbo and Nissan 3.0L DOHC, twin-turbo. Never heard of anyone doing a Ford swap and the Chevy 2.8L to me has no more potential than the L28ET. Most common of the swaps is probably the Nissan SOHC and the Buick. None of them have a kit so none are easy. The Chevy is probably the easiest because it is simply V-6 version of the SBC and the Nissan TT is probably the most difficult. For drag racing you cannot go wrong with any of them but it depends on how quick you want to go. If you are looking to get into the 10s, there are 3 Buick-powered Zs that I know of and I do not believe any of the others have hit that mark but it is more a matter of the owner than the engine. Some, like the Nissan SOHC, can have a low-entry fee then require mods to get there. Others like the Buick have a higher entry fee but require fews mods, just careful tuning. The Buick is limited to an automatic so if a stick is a requirement it is out. However, all of these engines, when breathing hard, have incredible torque with the Buick easily matching a worked big block and the auto works best for drag racing. If you are looking to get in the 11s, any of them will get the job done. If you are looking to get in the 12s, not sure a swap is necessary as the L28ET is proven and can get you there for a LOT less $$$, unless you just want the WOW factor when you pop the hood.

Most popular and easiest to find is the Ford SVO 36# (378cc) injs. This were used on the Mustang SVO and Merkur XR4T1 2.3L turbo engine. http://zdriver.com/members/scottiegnz/scotties240zt.htm

One usually needs a chassis stiffener because the Z needs it for high HP applications, but the foam should never be considered an alternative to a roll-cage. Roll-cage is more than just a chassis stiffener.

http://grannypotts.freeservers.com/Times.html

I have a 2 gauge pod for a relatively narrow pillar and there was still a 1" gap which did not look right. I ditched it and made a bracket and used the gauge cups. Does not look sexy, but I would rather have that than a pillar that was obviously botched to fit a car it was not designed for. The grinding idea was not applicable and heating and reshaping the form would have deformed the entire pod. Now, there is something Dominic can make in carbon fiber and a lot of folks could use.

Franklin, think you need to do a little more research. Compare the cost of making 600hp with an RB vs Buick V-6 vs SBC. You might be a little surprised to find there is probably little difference in cost.

Low-9s, very abitious. I assume you already know all the details on what it takes build a car to go low-9s, so it is a matter of powertrain choice. We are not talking a few $$$ here, but about 625-650RWHP if you can get the weight down to about 2,300 w/driver. I am going out on a limb and say the L28ET is out. A well prepared RBxx, VG30DETT, or a VG30DET with a lot of spray are the Nissan choices. A well prepped SBC, like NOSZ350, 1fastZ and JBSRace1 will get you there. Of the American V-6s I would go with the Buick. A well prepped 3.8 or 4.1 with a girdle gets you there or you can get a $tageII and DETUNE IT!. Any way you go you are talking big bucks but a lot of fun. Keep us posted.

Grumpy, I set up the C4 IRS in 240Z with poly bushings in the dog-bones and would like to go back to OEM bushings. The local dealer told me the bushings are not sold separate and I had to purchase new dog-bones. Can you confirm that and do you know where I might be able to buy a set of new OEM bushings? The poly bushings in the dog-bones are great on the track but on the street, "square edges" are punishing as the suspension is being pushed back instead of up and the polys have no give at all.

Do not compare the "feel" of your hybrid to that of the stock T3. It will not feel as snappy but I will guarantee the engine is making a lot more power and the car is quicker at the point that it feels laggy. When you go to the T04, that is a different story. However, since you mentioned SDS, be aware that the new SDS has a spoolup feature but it to be used for racing applications only. Same basic concept I use when launching my car. Retard the timing and lean out the fuel. If you are referring to lag in everyday street driving, then the obvious thing to do when you plan to upgrade turbos is work with the manufacturer to configure a turbo that limits lag. Do not know how much HP you will be looking for in the future, but you can go a LONG WAY with a t3/t04, quality I/C, SDS and tuning.

What turbo are you running that you need NO2 for spoolup?

Remember, not all 350s are born equal! FLAME SUIT ON If you are talking about a run-of-the-mill 350, even a 4-bbl engine, I say go with the L28ET. It will be less expensive, easier and with about 10psi, running efficiently, the L28ET in a 260Z will outperform the run-of-the-mill 350. FLAME SUIT OFF Now, if you are talking about an LT1, LS1 or modded 350, its a whole different ballgame. Will it last? An SBC or L6, properly maintained, is indestructable.

Manuel, welcome. Don't forget the moustache bars.

How to Shower How to Shower Like A Woman: 1. Take off clothing and place it in sectioned laundry hamper according to lights and darks. 2. Walk to bathroom wearing long dressing gown. If you see your husband along the way, cover up any exposed areas. 3. Look at your womanly physique in the mirror - make mental note must do more sit-ups. 4. Get in the shower. Use face cloth, arm cloth, leg cloth, long loofah, wide loofah and pumice stone. 5. Wash your hair once with Cucumber and Sage shampoo with 43 added vitamins. 6. Wash your hair again to make sure it's clean. 7. Condition your hair with Grapefruit Mint conditioner enhanced with natural avocado oil. Leave on hair for 15 minutes. 8. Wash your face with crushed apricot facial scrub for 10 minutes until red. 9. Wash entire rest of body with Ginger Nut and Jaffa Cake body wash. 10. Rinse conditioner off hair (you must make sure that it has all come off). 11. Shave armpits & legs. Consider shaving bikini area but decide to get it waxed instead. 12. Scream loudly when your husband flushes the toilet and you lose the water pressure. 13. Turn off the shower. 14. Squeegee off all wet surfaces in shower. Spray mold spots with Tilex. 15. Get out of shower. Dry with towel the size of a small country. Wrap hair in super absorbent second towel. 16. Check entire body for the remotest sign of a zit, tweeze hairs. 17. Return to bedroom wearing long dressing gown & towel on head. 18. If you see your husband along the way, cover up any exposed areas. How to Shower Like A Man: 1. Take off clothes while sitting on the edge of the bed and leave them in a pile. 2. Walk naked to the bathroom. If you see your wife along the way, shake wiener at her making the woo woo sound. 3. Look at your manly physique in the mirror & suck in your gut to see if you have pecs (no). Admire the size of your wiener in the mirror and scratch your ass. 4. Get in the shower. 5. Don't bother to look for a washcloth (you don't use one). 6. Wash your face. 7. Wash your armpits. 8. Blow your nose in your hands, then let the water just rinse it off. 9. Crack up at how loud your fart sounds in the shower. 10. Majority of time is spent washing your privates and surrounding areas. 11. Wash your butt leaving those coarse butt hairs on soap bar. 12. Shampoo your hair (do not use conditioner). 13. Make a shampoo Mohawk. 14. Peek out of shower curtain to look at yourself in the mirror again. 15. Pee in the shower. 16. Rinse off & get out of the shower. Fail to notice water on the floor because you left the curtain hanging out of the tub the whole time. 17. Partially dry off. 18. Look at yourself in the mirror, flex muscles, admire wiener size again. 19. Leave shower curtain open and wet bath mat on the floor. 20. Leave bathroom fan and light on. 21. Return to the bedroom with towel around your waist. If you pass your wife, pull off the towel, shake wiener at her, and make the woo woo sound again. 22. Throw wet towel on the bed. GUILTY AS CHARGED

Just as important or maybe even more so than tread width is compound. Put a pair of 235 DRs on a 400hp Z-car, heat them up and with the proper launch technique the car will rocket off the line, squatting heavily with no wheelspin. Replace those with a pair of gonzo 295 standard radials and with the same launch technique you could probably lay down 200' of rubber. Pretty but not effective.

You mean 16,000 rpms, don't you?

Governor, your topic has been moved to the appropriate forum.

Diannone, don't leave us hanging!

Agree with Davy. SEMS is the absolute best paint for plastic. Hard to find but worth the search.