Scottie-GNZ

Parker is the brand I use because the hydraulic supplier always has it and the proper fittings readily available, but others like Aeroquip also make it. http://www.parker.com/br/fordamazon/pdf/fluid_connectors/lowpress/hosefitt/hosefitt.pdf

Found out the pics are already posted. Little hard to really tell the fit and dimensions as the RX-7 radiator is slanted and really throws you off. http://www.misred.com/pix/ Check pics 404-409

I assume some folks want to see pics of the Escort fan and if there is no particular rush, I will have some this weekend. I am just a little bummed out right now with the extended down time on my car.

The Taurus fan did not fit either, so out of desperation we got a Ford Escort fan for a 1.9L engine!! It has a 16" fan, 3 wires and is completely shrouded and we figured had to be better than the one pictured above. We tested it on the low speed, then switched to HI and were not prepared for the gale-force wind coming out of that thing. With the wimpy 16" fan, the engine ran 195-200* and if we popped the hood it would drop to 190*. With the Escort fan wire to run on high, the fan is triggered by the chip to kick in a at 173* and within 1 minute, the temp drops to 162*. Yesterday, in mid-80s sun, it never went over 175*, even in traffic and an ATM drive-thru. Cannot imagine how much better the Taurus or Cobra fan is but we certainly do not need it and this one draws less than 25 amps. Just thought I would pass on another alternative that works, is not as bulky and draws less current.

http://www.azbcsstore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=azspeed&Product_Code=ASM-1018

Apparently those folks do not edit their sales brochures. They claim this hood reduces the overall weight of the car by 40lbs I just picked up a used fiberglass hood with the 3" cowl, similar to the one that MLKMGK got. Nice unit. It weighs 21lbs and today I pulled my stock hood and it weighs 37lbs. If anyone local or in FL is interested in buying my steel hood, drop me an email. It is in very good condition with the late hood vents, BUT, it uses hood pins. I have the hood latch.

Do a search on the web for the SVO and XR4Ti forums, then post a WTB in their classifieds and stand back.

Tony, nicely done!

http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/how_to/relays/

Anthony, put a jack under the nose of the diff, then loosen but do not remove the 2 bolts that hold the rear of the A-arm. Remove the 2 bolts that hold up diff crossmemebr sandwiching the end of the A-arm you are working with. Slowly lower the jack until you can pull the A-arm from between the x-member and the frame rail. That will move the entire strut assembly enough to slip the CV in place. Once you get the 6 bolts started, reposition the arm and bolt up the crossmember, then tighten the rear bolts. As for filling the diff, forget the manual. Remove the filler plug and SLOWLY fill the diff until the lube starts trickling out, then quickly put the plug in. Clean up the area then try to remove the plug again and if lube is trying to trickle out, you are done.

Tony, welcome to our little world. This is an oft discussed and even debated topic here and on the Buick boards. It has been proven by those who have done it that the car actually runs slower with the manual box. However, this has always been from the drag racing perspective and in the big, heavy Buick. It is important to remember that this engine in stock form (I mean stock internals) is a low-revving, high-torque engine and it makes no sense pushing it pass 5300. As a result of those characteristics, Buick designed a special version of the 2004R for this application and that combo just flat works. Another reason it works so well is because of the monster torque this little jewel generates. It seems to a lot of people, this is just not fully understood. This engine at 400+hp is pushing around 500lb/ft of torque at very low RPMs. People see 3.8L 6-cyl and it does not register, yet the thought of putting a stick behind a BBC in a Z and bombing it off the line would probably scare any Z owner. The whole point of that was to say you have to approach putting a stick behind this engine the same way you would putting a stick behind any big block. No point in putting a stick behind any engine if the overall 1st gear ratio combined with the typically short tire a Z uses makes that gear usless. The thing you do not want to do is wind up this engine too quickly in the lower gears. I think my going from a 3.54 to a 3.08 proves that and I am just getting started with that combo . Now, if you build up the engine with ported heads, a cam and even bigger turbo, now you can wind it up to 6000+, BUT, you are now in the 525+RWHP range with torque approaching 600lb/ft and having to deal with another set of issues like a clutch, tranny and chassis that can withstand that. You could always turn the boost down, but then what is the point? Well, I have rambled a lot but if you are considering the stick behind this engine, you have throw out conventional NA thinking of lower gearing and close-ratio gearboxes and go for the highest overall 1st gear ratio and widest ratios you can find. In the used OEM gearbox market, you are limited and that forces you to do what I did and that is go for the highest final drive ratio you can get. Stock Nissan will be a 3.36. Get the ratios of the tranny you plan to use and use the industry formulas to calculate overall ratios to get the max mph in each gear. 1st gear is the critical one and keep in mind that with the proper suspension setup, traction and 400hp, you will be in the 0-60 in 3-sec range. With the wrong combo (one that gets you only say 30mph in 1st) you could have a useless 1st gear or you will be a busy boy . Remember when Porsche first introduced the 930 turbo? Yep, it had a wide ratio 4-spd with Lonnng gears. Same concept. Hope I did not muddy the waters or discourage you.

Couple more: http://www.bakerprecision.com/silicone.htm http://www.hosetechniques.com/

Yup, and the pistons would be cheap too

Nemeziz, look here: http://www.suspension.com/nissancars.htm Super, not sure what 1fastZ's car weighs, but he is giving up a lot off the line not being able to launch as hard he needs to.

The engine management system on the GN is more flexible and therefore has been explored by the tuners. A Vortec with TT and a standalone management system would be a killer. Buddy of mine is finisihing up a truck with a Ty engine, bigger turbo and SDS. Should make 400hp when the boost is turned up. I can take a pic if you are interested. Not that familiar with the 745i as far as modifying them is concerned. I would have said 50hp for 1.3bar is a little optimistic but since they have a dyno sheet to prove it... If it is flywheel hp then I can certainly buy into that.

Jim, that Cobra fan is definitely too big. It is for the GN-powered 2nd-gen RX-7 and because the radiator is slanted, clearance down by the crank pulley is tight. This is just a stock 3.8L for trial fit and for working out the kinks from the swap while the monster motor is getting finished up. Note no I/C, oil filter bracket, etc. Also note the exclusive use of Parker Push-Lok hose for everything. Great stuff. So far, SO GREAT! looking forward to 550-575rwhp.

Closest thing I believe would be John Scott's s-charged 4.3L. Cannot argue about the heads and displacement of the Sy/Ty and if both were kept stock they probably would be equal or even give the edge to the Sy/Ty. However, no one keeps these things stock as it is just too damn easy to squeeze power out of them . Once you start doing that, the Buick gets you more bang for the buck.

OK folks, I used the search for a Taurus fan setup instructions and got 40 hits! I will cut to the chase. Does anyone have a detailed how-to installing this puppy? Any pics of the fan itself and what vehicles is it from?

WOW! This group never ceases to amaze me.

I have "hi-perf" springs in the car that were installed in 1980 and I cannot remember any specs except to say they are stiffer than stock but not jarring. I had a matching pair in the rear but went with the JTR spring perch mod and cut-down 280ZX 2+2 springs. JTR claims about 200# but I would say they were less and worked exceptionally well. Stay away from overly stiff springs in the rear if you plan on serious drag racing.

Not that I know of. Tokico Illuminas worked just fine for me.

I have an extra combo switch (headlights/wiper/washer) if anyone can use it. It is not brand new, but little used. Bought it new couple of years ago and had a major problem with the lights. Bought another and found out the problem was the fusebox. The box has part# 25160-E8800. I know the early switch fits a variety of models but I am not sure how far it goes. Here is a pic so you can see the wires. Email me if anyone is interested.

Knock going away as RPMs go up sounds awfully familiar. Rod knock would not go away. I like Ross' idea of the engine cleaner, then starting over with fresh oil, especially if the engine sat for awhile.

I intend to run the same wheels on the front. I used to run a 15x8 with 4.5" BS with stock springs, so I need another 2" clearance. Since the stock hub cannot be drilled to 5x4.75, I will need a 4x4.5 to 5x4.75 adaptor anyway. So, I will have to go with the appropriate thickness on the adaptor with stock springs or coilovers.

Once you look pass the nasty designs you see Summit/Jegs, you discover they make some really sweet looking wheels. I like the 806, same basic design but just a little cleaner.