Scottie-GNZ

Yes I did. Sorry. Turns out my front tires had flat spots even though I do not recall a panic stop that significant. Much better after some different tires but it is still not perfect. I also discovered from 240Z Turbo that my car has a 280Z rack with 240Z bushings which probably explains why my steering tightens up when I bolt down the clamps . I might still have worn inner tie rods, but I will wait until I get some 280Z bushings.

I stumbled across a complete Nissan IRS with a LSD and it appears to be a 3.90. My rough measurement is less than 60" hub-to-hub. Have not asked about price but I am sure it would be very reasonable. Anyone interested? I do not know the difference between a non-Z R200 and a R230, but I have never seen a diff like it before. The CVs look very beefy. I will take a pic and post it.

Tony, might want to consider 280Z hood vents or a 280ZXT vent located over the turbo. You might be better off letting the heat rise and vent out than trying to protect something from the heat trapped underhood.

Simon, is that the same engine as the GM SC3800? Just curious. What is it about the idea of the 5.0L V-8 that you do not like?

What required pieces do you think you would need? Just like we advise folks wanting to do a 1st-gen/L28ET swap to get a donor car, I advice folks to find a complete Buick drivetrain with harness. You have to fab engine mount brackets, a tranny crossmember (I believe the JTR would work), driveshaft, shifter, I/C and exhaust. The engine harness is completely independent. Nothing that should put fear in the eyes of a competent hybridZer, and nothing out of the ordinary. Sounds less complex than trying to develop a turbo system for a SBC. Once you get pass the initial expense of the drivetrain and install, you spend very little thereafter extracting more HP. Tim, no problem. I am here to help anyone who needs it.

She dropped off another package and wanted to play with my "Big 12-inch". No way I told her, I am the only one who plays with my big 12-inch. Click Here to see my big 12-inch.

If you can wait a few days, I know someone who might be interested in some sort of trade.

With all the references to the Buick GN, why not just do one .

I had to manhandle some Z doors last weekend and was shocked at the weight. 100lb savings sounds high, especially if we are looking at a 240Z but it would still be a big number. I am also interested but would like to retain the window crank and door latch mechanisms.

Not sure when you looked at the SDS system, but I installed SDS with the coilpacks over 3 yrs ago and they had them for a while before that.

Evan recently bought a GN, so is probably engrossed in that.

Glad to see someone finally thought it was a good enough idea to use it .

SOLD.

I have more pics but there is absolutely no way I would publish them on the board, if you get my drift. Mike, one last question. You said you had to drill to relocate the cotter pin and I can see that. The Chevy hub is about 1" shorter and the spindle extends past the end of the Datsun hub. I envision the spindle is going to stick out much more with the Chevy hub. Did you have a problem with that?

Check out the Gainesville Z Club announcement. Maybe you can go down to Gainesville and see a really nice one belonging to Rick (V8ZRACER).

In about a month I will be looking to complete the front brake upgrade and wondered if there would be any interest in buying my current setup. It is not one of the popular swaps but has served me well and it will be CHEAP. - 82-83 Calipers and caliper brackets - 84-85 vented rotors, cut down to fit the calipers - KVR carbon pads - 71 hubs complete with bearings and Nissan comp studs, 2+" long - Stainless braided lines. With a decent price there are lots of pros to this swap, but there is a con. If you do this conversion you are committed to it. The threads on the spindles must be reamed out for the bolt to pass through and thread into the ZX caliper bracket. This opposite of the stock setup. Will include all the bolts and shims I am currently using. I know this swap is not for everyone and that is why I am throwing out this bone, else it will just go in my "junk" pile. What would be considered a reasonably good buy for this setup? You can see the shims between the spindle and the caliper bracket in the 2nd pic.

Thanks Guys. The local Classic Chevy shop has them in stock. Brand new with bearings and seals, $179/pr. I am anxiously awaiting the UPS "person" to bring me another sweet package. This is going so good it is scary. Jimbo, I still have to fab up caliper bracket adaptors and plain wheel spacers so I will be in touch. Also trying to see if we can get a C4 diff into a 2nd-gen RX7 IRS for the monster GN-powered RX7 and might need you on that one too.

Awesome! We have another top-notch competitor in the community. WHAT A GROUP

Look at my post titled "Design Engineers:...". I am pursuing 12" Corvette C4 brakes for the front. MikeC just posted a pic of his Z with 62 Impala drum brake hubs. I plan to go that route or make my own adaptor. If I recall, those brakes you have are the 1LE 12" option and you do not need BAD ASS brakes. You already got them and just need to figure out how to fit them. Sorry if I get soppy here, but I am amazed at the amount of information being shared in this little community. SIMPLY AWESOME!!

THANK YOU!!! How does the caliper get mounted to the hub? Other than the spindle nut, are there any other attachment points on the hub? What brakes are those that you are using?

Here's Your Sign..... Stupid people should have to wear signs that just say, "I'm Stupid" That way you wouldn't rely on them, would you? You wouldn't ask them anything. It would be like, "Excuse me... oops never mind..... didn't see your sign." It's like before my wife and I moved. Our house was full of boxes and there was a U-Haul truck in our driveway. My neighbor comes over and says "Hey,you moving?" "Nope. We just pack our stuff up once or twice a week to see how many boxes it takes. Here's your sign." A couple of months ago I went fishing with a buddy of mine, we pulled his boat into the dock, I lifted up this big 'ol stringer of bass and this idiot on the dock goes, "Hey, y'all catch all them fish?" "Nope. Talked 'em into giving up. Here's your sign." I was watching one of those animal shows on the Discovery Channel. There was a guy inventing a shark bite suit. And there's only one way to test it. "Alright Jimmy, you got that shark suit on...it looks good... They want you to jump into this pool of sharks, and you tell us if it hurts when they bite you." "Well, all right, but hold my sign. I don't wanna lose it. Last time I had a flat tire, I pulled my truck into one of those side-of-the-road gas stations. The attendant walks out, looks at my truck, looks at me, and I SWEAR he said, "Tire go flat?" I couldn't resist. I said, "Nope. I was driving around and those other three just swelled right up on me. Here's your sign." We were trying to sell our car about a year ago. A guy came over to the house and drove the car around for about 45 minutes. We get back to the house, he gets out of the car, reaches down and grabs the exhaust pipe, then says, "Darn that's hot!" See? If he'd been wearing his sign, I could have stopped him. I learned to drive an 18-wheeler in my days of adventure. Wouldn't you know I misjudged the height of a bridge. The truck got stuck and I couldn't get it out no matter how I tried. I radioed in for help and eventually a local cop shows up to take the report. He went through his basic questioning..ok..no problem. I thought for sure he was clear of needing a sign...until he asked... "So..is your truck stuck?" I couldn't help myself ! I looked at him, looked back at the rig and then back to him and said "no I'm delivering a bridge...Here's your sign." I stayed late at work one night and a co-worker looked at me and said "Are you still here?" I replied, "No. I left about 10 minutes ago. Here's your sign." Anybody you know need a sign today? See below and lets also give that one a caption.

Jamie, excellent, excellent points, especially the one about lightweight calipers and heavy rotors. Reminds me of a discussion I was involved in a while back on spending hundreds for a carbon-fiber driveshaft to reduce rotating mass and ignoring the flywheel. There is a tendency for folks to think that the hi-po parts they put on their street cars has to match that of a race car. Granted, there are benefits, e.g., to having a 8lb race-type rotor over an OEM 12lb rotor, but for a street-driven car that sees the drag strip occassionaly or even one that spends a lot of time at the drag strip, I just do not think it is warranted. If you are autocrossing, spend time road racing, running through the canyons, or going dangerously fast on the street, there is no question you should have it. I have 82-83 ZXT calipers, 300ZX vented rotors and KVR pads and that is plenty brakes for my purpose. I do not ever find myself in a situation on the street (IOW, I do not street race) where I need more and if I wanted to brake real hard, I could make the 1st turn off at the strip even after 125+. However, I plan to upgrade my fronts to 12" to match the rears and not look "ricey" with 17s over stock-sized Z brakes . If anyone is interested, my front brakes will be replaced soon and I will part with them cheap. Yeah, I know, blatant plug .

XJS. That explains the width. Are the hubs and Dayton wheels knock-offs or are you just completely hung up on those wheels? With 3.5" flares, your fender-lip measurement is a tad wider than mine. With the right offset wheels, you would not have to cut it. If you do narrow it, you only have to do the axles and the lower arms. Be certain to maintain the angle os the shocks.

This can be very frustrating and I hope I am not telling you something you do not already know or have tried. 1st thing to do is make sure you are using the correct lever on the trans. This is critical as the various levers are designed for specific trans. It is not uncommon to use the wrong lever from the several that comes in the package. Next, and probably the problem, is the cable adjustment. This requires patience. Make sure the cable is in the correct hole on the lever. You need to disconnect the cable from the lever on the trans, put the trans in P, put the shifter in P, then adjust the cable so it slips onto the lever. Next, disconnect the cable again, put the trans in 1st, put the shifter in 1st and try to slip the cable on. If it does slip on, you need to adjust it such that it will fit both P and 1, even if it does not slip on perfectly. It helps here to also make minor adjustments to the cable body where it is connected to the bracket that is connected to the pan. It also helps to have a helper moving the shifter while you are under the car making the adjustments. The problem is not the shifter UNLESS you have the wrong detent on it. Like the lever on the trans, each trans uses a different detent. HTH

Dale, if the Jag IRS is 62" hub-to-hub, then it is 1" narrower than the C4. That sound awfully wide as I just did not envision an XK-E being that wide. You do not have to take off that much if you go with wheels that have a deep offset. I think there was mention that the Jag bolt pattern is the same as GM and I just happen to be getting ready to sell my 4 16x8 Z-28 wheels with 2 255/50-16 tires, CHEAP . Those wheels have a 6.125" BS and weigh only 17lbs!! BTW, those axles are probably not very long since the disc brakes are inboard.