Scottie-GNZ

When you start upping the boost, you have to make the investment in having "lips" at the ends of the pipes and use T-bolt clamps. Since I did this I have not blown off a single hose running 24psi. We rushed to get the RX-7 to the track last week with no lips and plain screw clamps and gave up after 3 runs. Same goes for tires. Only thing worse than blowing away the tires on a run is doing with with the wheels not straight. Regular street radials will not cut it.

Step 2 completed! Thanks to 240Z Turbo for machining up my 5-lug adaptor which I received this evening . I was so excited to get going, in no time I had the caliper bracket mockup done and ready for the machine shop. Hopefully the machinist will understand how difficult it is to drive without my right arm . Might be easier giving up a nut Like most everything else I do on my car, this is unconventional and probably not to be duplicated The huge C4 caliper bracket interfered with the mounting tabs on the spindle, so I whacked them off and fabbed up an adaptor that will be welded to the spindle. No going back! Like everything else I make, it is mocked up out of cardboard, so no snickering (you thought that was the bracket???). The pieces of paper front and rear is to get the proper clearances before the final mockup. Hey James, thanks buddy. I will really need these when I spot you 5 car lengths and have to slam on the brakes to avoid running over your crank, trying to beat me

We will most likely be taking the RX-7 out again this Wed night. If you can, bring the car by and let me take a look at the VG30 fuel rail to see how difficult it would be to make a custom set to fit barbed or o-ringed injs. I have a feeling other VG30s could use it. I know a couple of V8 RX-7s and remember a grey or primered one at the track. Were you there that night I had the episode with the slicks?

Nicely done! Do you intend to put it on the track? What are you doing this weekend? Maybe I can get some of the regular locals to come by for a small gathering. Drop me an email.

Ascilifared, where are you located in Orlando? Drop me an email if you would like to get together. Not that familiar with the VG30DET injector system except to know it has some sort of odd side-feed setup. Have you considered building new fuel rails that would allow you to have a wider choice of injs?

Yes, I know Jesus. We use to hang at the DSM club meetings when he was into DSM and I had my AWD Eclipse. Last I heard, he is around 850+rwhp, but I have not seen or heard of him running the car at the track much anymore. The Titan car is also at 850+ and has already gone 9.0 @ 160 on DRs. I would not exactly call these street cars although Jesus probably drives his occassionally. I saw that Jesus won the Dyno contest at a Supra meet in Texas but I would bet he did not drive it there. I always define a street car as one that can be driven cross-country on an hour's notice to check/change fluids. Very few cars, short Hennessy and Lingenfelter monsters can hang with a well modified SupraTT on the top-end. At the track, that is a different story. I would not bet against myself running against one that had up to 625+rwhp but on the street I would just give him the "You Da Man" salute . Jimbo, putting one of these in a Z makes my mouth water. A 625rwhp version would put me at around 9.70 @ 140 and be ready to cruise cross-country anytime. Sadly I will have just to tweaking my yank lump.

A friend and I bought out a local Z repair shop and have a garage full of Z parts. We have not gotten around to sorting things out for sale yet but we do have a couple of brand-new seat cover kits. Everything will be sold below cost once we got things sorted out. Drop me an email and I will see what colors we have.

Rick, sweet looking car. I am in east Orlando and would love to get together and check it out.

Stock Buick ECM, an open-loop chip that has a little adjustability and an add-on datalogger.

That's correct. Someone else asked the same question. Most aftermarket injs are flow rated at 43# (3-bar) and a lot factory setups are 36#. If you told the SDS the injs flowed 680cc and your FP was set to 36#, the 680cc injs would be flowing about 620cc and the fueling would be off. Remember that all SDS fueling is dependent on an accurate base number derived from inj flow rate and cyl displacement (see matrix above). Be sure to set the FP at idle with the line off and capped to retain a smooth idle. You will see pressure drop when the line is connected and that is OK.

Good luck and glad to see you realize tuning is not a one-time thing. We make about the same HP and so should have the same fuel demand. I have mine tuned correctly now and run about 78-82% with 50#ers. Once you get that richness down at little at WOT the DC should come down below 80%. You might want to consider an EGT gauge. I used a Westach but recently switched to a Dakota Digital so I do not have to focus on it. I probably said this before, but make sure the FP is dead on to the Inj manufacturer's spec else the SDS will be off since the inj would have a different flow rate. Common mistake to see folks go to an aftermarket inj and forget to change the FP from the factory setting. I am sure you are aware but others should take note.

Let me know what you think about the Road Dyno. It looks very interesting and just the ticket to play "what if?" w/o going to a dyno or the track. Wonder how it fares with an EFI/turbo setup as there seemed to be a lot of emphasis on carbs and coils.

Congrats. Do not leave us hanging too long.

Another alternative is the Walbro GSS392, ~$150. It is the inline equivalent of the 340 in-tank unit which the GN boys use to make big HP. I also have been using the Pierburg for years.

Please, make these never-ending modifications STOP!! IRS is back together after replacing aluminum halfshafts with steel ones and replacing poly bushings in the trailing arms with stock bushings. I started to hear a light clunk on easy take-offs and when coming to a stop. Was little mystified that the Spicer u-joints were already shot. Turned out that one of the holes in the yoke (also aluminum) got out of round and the joint cap was moving around in there. Once that happens, the soft aluminum just gives in. Couple of Vette racers told me they experienced this with smallblocks that drop the hammer hard with manuals and with the massive torque of the bigblocks. I decided to go with 3" steel axles and yokes, only an aditional $140+ for the pair over narrowing and balancing a spare stocker. Chances are it would happen again. I went poly bushings wherever I could, but the ones in the trailings arms, combined with 275s with short, stiff sidewalls, were loosening up my dentures whenever I hit a square edge in the road. Just getting old, I guess. Getting? Now waiting for my esteemed CRAFTSMAN to complete the hub mod and adaptor to fit the 5-lugs and 12" brakes. Amazing puny the 3" od axle looks next to the 3.5" od stocker. They are heavier, but being only 16.5" on-center and such a narrow rotating mass, I am not concerned. I am more concerned about that 45lb converter hanging on the back of the crank

That is how I did mine when I ran a water-cooled hybrid.

Ian, sorry if I did not make myself clear to you, even though it seemed clear to others. Come on, lighten up . I said I love the GTX and want one. I even love the GLHS even though it came from a "low...", oops, economy car .

Wow, touchy are'nt we Thank you, Lone. If I recall, the 323 was at the bottom of the Mazda line with humble beginnings from the GLC. Anyone remember those? I bet we all tried to forget it. BTW, if I ever run across a GTX or an Omni GLHS, I am grabbing it. The ones I come across for sale are recognized by the owners as prized classics Not only does the VG30DETT squirt oil to the bottom of the pistons, the rods squirt oil on the lower cylinder wall.

That is an underhood shot of a BMW.

If you have to consider this, then you do not want to use that I/C, period. Scotty, glad to hear you are getting TimZ's I/C. When you install it, turn the boost way down and start over again because I guarantee if are now seeing 18# at the intake, the turbo is probably pushing 25# or more!!

BTW, I have a stock GN cannister already modified to make the rod adjustable. The stock GN spring is preloaded for 12# but I do not know if it has the same mounting bolt pattern. Would be a neat way for a turboZ to increase boost.

You have options and have come to the right place. Before you start digging into the answer, determine how fast/quick you want to go, how much do you have budgeted and make sure the budget includes brakes, suspension and wheels/tires upgrades.

Very few OEM engines have this feature. Ironically enough, Mazda had it in the "lowly" 323 GTX and when that engine was carried over to the Miata, they retained it even though it no longer had the turbo. For those building turbo engines, coating the pistons is extra insurance in the fight against detonation. Lone, excellent point about oil as more than a lubricant. That is why a 911 has a dry sump system with ~13qts and multiple oil coolers.

This might not be an issue, but be aware that what determines when the wastegate opens is the pre-load of the spring in the cannister and using the Chrysler actuator might change the amount of boost you run. Of course, if the new one has a stiffer spring and you wanted to run more boost, then VOILA . Also make sure the the rod is properly aligned and has full movement to open the puck lever all the way.

marcos, sorry, I thought we were dealing with a L28 turbo motor.