Scottie-GNZ

I have a very nice hood with louvers but I used hood pins. If hood pins are in your plans, you can catch a steal. BTW, that is the hood you see on my car.

Ummmmh. I must be doing something "wrong" . I have been running Federal Mogul hypers and 24# boost for the past 18 mos and working my way up to 26#.

Hmmm, good looker but it has a reserve of $15K. Curious though. "it has 750hp", "runs the 1/4-mile in 10 @ 170", "has a TH350", no indication of what rear-end is in it but mentions billet alt bracket. Performance numbers do not add up, but someone will get more than they handle.

Thanks, Eddie. I have a formula that I use to calculate rwhp based on ET, MPH & weight w/driver. The formula says 443rwhp and with this engine, an estimated 500lb/ft of torque. I use a trans-brake to build boost at the line and once the car is launched I am at full boost within a couple of feet. The key to the smooth takeoff is that instant power and the suspension being setup for a quick rebound/slow compression in the front and quick compression/slow rebound in the rear. This causes the front end to quickly lift and the rear to quickly squat for instant weight transfer and with the front end dropping slower and the rear end rising slower, it keeps the tires planted longer. I get no wheelspin off the line despite launching with that much power. You need adjustable shocks, stay away from stiff springs and practice, practice . The tranny is the stock TH2004R with a 2800 stock-diameter converter, shift kit and of course the trans-brake. HTH,

BLKMGK, NHRA Sports Compact (Import) allows engine swaps but it must be of the same manufacturer. 240Z Turbo, you ready to run? I am calling you out AND spotting you .5!!!! Gobble on that.

Well Jimbo, it looks like I will not be running my car at Gainesville after all. NHRA does not allow engine swaps from another manufacturer. Any time, any place .

Similiar thing happened to the Buick GN-powered 2nd-gen RX-7 we built. On the way to Daytona this weekend, the oil pressure starting falling and eventually got to 0. PANIC! But wait, the engine is running with no noise and we can see oil spray on the rockers. Changed the oil filter (had a spare) and it filled up and got hot in no time. Grounded out the gauge and it worked fine. Later after we got to Daytona, we started the car after it cooled off and the pressure was registering OK again. Conclusion, the sending unit is acting flaky and stops working when it gets extremely hot.

In the post there was mention about selling them for $600 but he also said he was willing to make another set. My thinking was that he could make several sets for you guys based on the proper design for a SBC hybridz. Keep in mind that the set you are looking at is for a TT setup in a Buick GN. You guys would need to come to concensus on what design you want, single or TT, then it would work best if he had access to a car to mock it up. Grumpy, you listening . The simpler the better, of course. That means you would want to make all sets identical to reduce the cost since he would probably make a jig. Hmm, JTR, TT...... Single or TT both have their complexities. Double requires no x-over pipe but more complex plumbing and 2 turbos, although I imagine 2 T3s are enough to detonate a "normal" SBC . Single has less complex plumbing and 1 big turbo but needs the x-over. Ah, decisions.

Been lots of discussion about this and if you folks are serious, here is a guy who can help leap the big hurdle, turbo headers. This guy is in So FL and apparently seems willing to duplicate his turbo headers. If there is enough interest to do a group purchase, maybe making 5+ sets could get everyone a good price. Check out the post at 3:09, 5:08 & 5:35. http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=34043&referrerid=1951

Tony, if the car truly weighs 2500# loaded, you have everything to do it. 13.50 @ 105 requires about 225rwhp. Install the I/C, crank up the boost to about 12#, make the necessary AFM recalibration and you are there. As a rule of thumb, a turbo engine will flow about 1.5cfm/hp. Since you are only looking for 225rwhp (yeah, right), throw out the formulas and just focus on getting it tuned.

I also used it and the MTL did wonders for my 5-spd.

Somewhere in GA there is (I hope still) another proud Scarab owner who bought my kit and drivetrain from me in Orlando in '1981. YEA, 1981! If you recall, you drove down to Orlando to pick it up from some guy (me) who needed to sell it quick to go overseas. If that person is on the forum, please identify yourself.

Tim, is that in leiu of what we have been talking about? GREAT SCORE! Some guys have all the luck.

That is an awful lot of woofin' for a setup that has not yet made its 1st pass . I am going to do you a favor and give you an opportunity to gracefully back out of your challenge. Go ahead and just declare that your converter will not be ready in time and save yourself the embarressment. You have until this weekend to save the shame.

"Gumball Rally" when the Italian driving the Ferrari Daytona rips off the rear view mirror and says "whatsa behinda me is not important".

http://www.chiseledperformance.net/ Car recently went 5.95 @ 120 in the 1/8 which projects to a 9.35 @ 152. Transbrake broke and he used the foot brake to launch it.

Well, 2nd year in a row and I did not have my car ready for the show. This time it is 5 weeks into getting my I/C repaired!! As a gearhead, after this show I am sad to say "Ho Hum". How many more ways can one hotrod a SBC? The only thing there imaginative and worth looking at was the same thing that had me scratching me head and somewhat befuddled. I am referring to Fiero-based "Ferraris". I counted 9 different Ferrari and Lambo body styles and 1 Zimmer. Yes, a Fiero with a copy of a Zimmer body Uh? Folks, A Fiero is a Fiero is a Fiero. I have no problem with re-bodied cars when well done, and some of these were excellent! BUT, recognize it for what it is and do not put 6 "Ferrari" and prancing-horse badges on the car. Eventually you have to look inside and see the most HORRID dash ever designed. One car had to GALL to put a "Ferrari" badge on his engine lid and a plastic Ferrari engine cover his totally unmodified original 4-cyl engine, an engine not even worthy of a Fiero. Refused to take a pic of that! What really floored me were a couple that had the 550 Maranello wide-body (Oh, the sacrilige). The body was at least 15" pass the hub, so what did they do? Obviously a wide rim and tire BUT how about a backspace so deep that it required a spacer so wide you would not have believed me if I told you so. Ricers gone upscale!. Enough already. But wait, there is more. Sad to say, some of the Impala SS crowd are just grown-up ricers at heart. I saw one that had every imaginable gauge in the car, including a voltmeter and ammeter. Just cannot be too safe. Oh yeah, a vacuum/boost guage. LMAO. Back to the Fieros with a positive note. There was some sort of national convention for Fieros and there were well done hybrids. Several SBCs, Buick S-charged 3800 (boy is that a sweet swap) and the prize goes to a couple of Northstars. Check them out. Note the bottom of the pic in the 2nd one! Always appreciate a well done hybid. Yes, there were a couple of Z cars there. A nice red 250 coupe. If you are reading this, step forward and take a bow. Did not have the camera with me when I saw it. There were 2 hybrids for sale. One black with stripes and a SBC. Very nice car. Step forward, identify your self and take a bow. The other a wild wide-body with a S-charged SBF claiming 550hp but no performance stats to back it up. Very nicely done and asking $22,500 YIKES but If you are reading this, please tell us more. Note the black Z in the background.

Got a couple of free hours to spare?: http://members.tripod.com/~grannys/

I am beginning to think you and Corky plotted against me to delay my I/C fix so you could catch up Doesn't matter, you still won't catch me

Beg, borrow, steal some DRs for that race. I gaurantee 1.70s for any hybridz with DRs and if he is on street tires, he will be playing catchup. If he is on slicks

You are going to film it? Bold, very bold.

If you plan to road race it, you need it. If you plan to drag race it and go quicker than 11.99, you need it. For a street car, it is your choice.

Oh, you mean like this?

260DET is on to something. If you are hearing a rattling sound under boost, STOP RUNNING THE CAR UNDER BOOST for now. That is probably the death-rattle, DETONATION. 2nd thing I would do is buy, beg, steal or borrow a fuel pressure gauge with a line long enough that you can extend to tape the gauge to the windshield so you can see the fuel pressure under boost. You should be able to build one of those for less than $50. I am guessing you are having a fuel delivery problem causing a lean condition. Pull the plugs and see if the engine is running lean.

Ryan, ignorance? Think you are being a little hard on yourself. If by handling you mean driving hard through the "twisties", I have not had an opportunity to do that. With just normal around town driving and through the back roads where I live, it is an improvement. With a good weight reduction and the ability to adjust camber, toe, bumpsteer and the coilovers I added, it certainly will have more potential if I get serious about handling. For the average Z car, is it worth the expense and effort? NO, unless you are serious about HP, need odd/better gear selection, looking for the adjustability, have the mechanical/fabrication skill to install it and can get one cheap. I did not install it for the handling. It was a better alternative to a solid rear to satisfy my particular needs. R230s use CVs and R200 use CVs and halfshafts, depending on the car. The C4 IRS uses halfshafts with 3.5" aluminum tubes and massive u-joints. As for weight differences, I do not know what an R230 weighs, but I would guess the R230 and R200 (LSD) diffs probably weigh about the same despite the R230 being a 9". The R200 has a long pinion gear shaft making the heavy housing much longer. The C4 IRS is all aluminum except for the rotors, of course and came in a little under 80lbs lighter than the R200 IRS I pulled out. This allowed me to add over 11' of 3" channel steel over the entire length of the frame rails for rigidity w/o a weight penalty. HTH and not trying to talk anyone out of doing the C4 IRS swap. Just do not want to see anyone doing it if it is not required or just because it looks cool. It is involved!