bucket240z

I have a 2/71 240z with NO RUST. I will let it go for cheap. Even has 5 way adjustable suspension. PM me and we'll talk

What kind of intake did you get? The bolts included were to long? I got the Edlbrock carb conversion are the bolts included worked perfectly fine.

Did the coolant sensor come with the jtr radiator? If so then mine didn't come with one. I put that bolt there just to stop the leaking but its quite smaller than the hole so im pretty sure i didn't damage anything.

So after i saw you guys commenting my thread i decided to go work on the z. I finally found a hose to loop the heater hookups but i have run into a coolant leak. It is on the jtr radiator. Here is a pic (the plastic part that has the bolt in it) It doesnt seem to be threaded on the inside but it was hard for me to tell with the green coolant in the way. Is something supposed to go there? Has anybody ran into this? Thanks for the info guys! Kevin

What kind of hose did you use? All the ones i've tried kink really bad. Do you have any pictures? Thanks

Sorry for the thread revival but I am in the same boat with my swap right now. What did you guys do to take care of this?

I think if I use a low profile filter it *might* clear the hood. If not i'll adjust the bump stops and hope that helps. If it does not then a cowl induction hood is in the future. The intake manifold i have on there is a dual plane one which is more efficient in the low end and i plan on swapping it out for a single plane one and when i do that i will defiantly need a different hood.

I also have the "how to rebuild a GM LS-series" book and it is a GREAT book. It's filled with so much useful information and color pictures for every step of the way.

When i was doing mine i asked my uncle(mechanic) where to put it he said lower. Try that and it might solve your problem :].

Is your fuel pump mounted higher or lower than your gas tank?

Where are you in the Bay Area?

Well whenever you get around to selling them let me know and I'd be down to buy them.

What are you gonna do with those 243's you're going to have laying around?

It's a perma-cool unit that i bought off Summit. Flows 2950 cfm and was only $127.00. Here"s th4 link to it. It looks like they paint the blades blue now. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRM-19115&N=700+4294924500+115&autoview=sku

I had the same problem also. Now does the whole mount not fit between the frame rails or does one side overlap the frame rail when attached to the transmission? That's what my problem was and i was able to muscle the cross member in. Pictures would help us get a better idea of the problem.

It would be better to start a new thread for that issue.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts/718819405.html Saw this one too. If thats what it was really from thats a pretty good deal also.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/car/717668656.html I don't know the seller but its a killer deal that somebody here might want to jump on.

The mail had bee nice to me this week I am just waiting for the oil pan then I can finish getting it put together and in the car. I also got the mounts in but have no pictures.

I guess the crank snout got chewed up while taking the pulley off so he just left it and when to another engine. Luckily I found a used ls1 crank on ebay for $225 shipped.

So after weighing the options of an RB26 and an LS1 I decided to go the V8 route. What i worried about most was breaking something on an RB and i felt way more comfortable with a chevy v8 as my uncle is quite educated with them and parts are more readily available. I bought an LS1 off out a fellow member here for $450 and then i have started accumulating parts and debt since then. While I was waiting to get that engine i found another more complete one on craigslist so i decide to buy it. When i get there i see this: Lingenfelter vette sitting on 345"s 24 LS powered vehicles in all. The engine I picked up: . And finally the engine bay it is going into: I have basically everything else I need for the swap ordered. Next week is going to be Christmas!!! Any comments or suggestions would be quite helpful and much appreciated. Thanks in advance, Kevin

I changed a relay that was on the frame rail which is weird because my 71 doesn't have one. Now it clicks when i flip the switch for the lights but still nothing. I'm still stumped. Anybody have any ideas?

First of all the Z in question was built in March of 1972. So I decided to strip my interior so I could paint it with rustolem so I could sleep better at night. Before I took anything out I tested my lights, starter, exc. to make sure they worked...and they did. Fast forward to after painting. I plugged the harness with the amp gauge still hooked up back in (I pulled the harness out of the dash because i am going to use autometer gauges) and nothing. No lights or starter. Everything is plugged in except the rear tail lights. I tested everything I could think of. The lights, starter, ignition, and accessory relay all have power. I'm so down because it's finally back together and I wanted to hear it after i changed the head gasket and put a header on it. I was hoping that maybe a different or more Z experienced mind might have an idea of where to look to fix my problem or may have ran into similar ones. Thanks in advance, Kevin

I can take a look at it if you want. Just let me know.

Nothing is wrong with it. I bought it for a flat top L28 engine that i have laying around but i don't have time to finish it.