Danochumongs

Alumaseal works wonders from fixing a ford heatercore to a koyo radiator ive seen it all. But make sure you get the $3 little cylinder and not the liquid.

Same thing happened to me right when i was about to drive it for the first time in 3 weeks after the brakes being out and it was a huge bummer ): i got a 280z one from the junkyard and it was all metal, including the thing that broke on both of ours. Hope this helps

Where i live in the mountains, it gets about 20 degrees in the morning. Making my block fairly cold in the morning. But i usually just prime the carbs by pressing the gas pedal about 5 times and it starts in a few seconds. I know that usually floods them when the car is actually primed but it gets fuel in there for me when its dry so i'm good with that. But i also have my emergency can of starter fluid which works wonders. I ran out of gas one time because my sensor is broken and it wouldnt start for anything after it ran dry but the starter fluid juiced it right up, and saved me after i had to call a friend and run around with him until i could get to O'reillys. Hopefully you have some already, but if not it works wonders even for my jeep, that sits for 6 months to a year at a time. With no stabilizers.

Hello, my brake lights recently went out again after i had fixed them with a new ground. There is no power to the brake switch. The brake lights dont come on when i turn my headlights on. All my fuses are good, and i even replaced the hazard switch because a mystery smoke was coming from my dash cover and stopped around the same time. Although i put the appropriate fuses back in because previous owner had 30 amps in there. The bulbs are good because i had to replace them before. I have gone through about 20 pages looking through thread after thread so i felt it was appropriate to start one for my help, and the sake of others.

finally got around to switching them around and bled them and they work now. now my dilema is if you slam on it it gives to the floor. could it be my leaky perprotion valve that tore all my paint off on the frame inside engine bay. also if anyone could help me on my tail lights being out even with headlights on and my flashers work. thats the last problem for me. my fuses are good and brake switch is too and regrounded the green wire. im seeing hope now because of how helpful you've been. its very discouraging seeing it on jacks everyday when you come home.

the master cylinder was a rebuilt one from orielly's but my proportion valve is leaking from the right brake line at the base i believe. also i just checked and the bleed valve is on the bottom. thank you for pointing out that flaw. ill let you know if that cures the problem. do you think i need a new pressure differential switch though? or what do you suggest. thank you for the help, i greatly appreciate it.

I am having withdrawls from my beloved 1970 240z. My brake lights have been out and ive been trying to figure that out(not main problem) and realized my front calipers havent been working. i will add my proportioning valve is leaking slightly from right side, but the front calipers havent worked since i bought it. so i rebuilt and honed the cylinders and they work slightly. every time you press the pedal one side goes in and once that side hits the rotor, the other one gets some pressure, and so on. I had put a new 72 or 73 master cylinder and rebled the whole system after rebuilding one wheel cylinder which wasnt working well either. i'm stumped beside it being the leaky proportioning valve. the brake light went on for the leak after bleeding system first time. also now the pedal gained a little pressure again if you press it too hard you feel the pressure give and it slams to the floor. i decided to become part of the the community here to seek help and possible contribute with the small problems i have found and fixed that was not on any forum. If anyone would like to hear the ordeal of my brake , and help me, pm me.Thank you for your time.