ZXT_bean

Well I was able to get the car fired up on the carbs. But they are not in as good of shape as I had hoped. So I ordered a new intake/exhaust gasket, as well as kits for both carbs. I wish I had enough money at the moment to order the Z-Therapy kits and video, but thats not going to happen at the moment. Does anyone have a link or a guide to rebuiding SU's? Every page or thread I come across just says to order the Z-therapy video. And that's not an option right now. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks for all the help! Ill report back with what happens.

Honestly, the SU's have been sitting untouched for about 10 yrs. Although they move freely, pistons slide and clunk like they should, choke moves free, butterflys are smooth. also there is still oil in the dampeners. Short of blowing out the fuel passages and re-gasketing them, Im hoping they will work. The car they came from has low miles, so im praying for good throttle shaft bushings. I plan to run a separate relay for the fuel pump as well have it on a switch ( sort of a anti theft device) and so I can turn it off while working on the car and having the key forward in the on position. Im really just trying to get the car running and moving under its own power. Once that is achieved I plan to go thru the entire EFI system, clean it all up. If funds allow it come winter, It will be swapped back with MegaSquirt. I just wanted to make sure that once I remove the harness its not going to have any ill effects. EDIT: In the state of Illinois, if its older than 1996 it is no longer emission tested. So that's not a problem.

I recently picked up a 77 280Z. When I picked it up it had no fuel psi or spark. This morning I swapped the dizzy to a 80' 280ZX e-12. I now have spark. With starter fluid it starts right up. I do eventually plan to run EFI, but it will be with mega squirt over the winter. I also have a 72' 240Z as a donor car to the 77'. Now just to get it running and driving id like to swap over the SU's. But im worried that if I was to pull out the EFI harness that things wont work inside the car. Like gauges, fuel pump relay ect.. So my real question is should I pull out the harness or leave it in? I already know the SU's will bolt up to my N47 head so no worries there. I also have a 4psi pump from the 240Z that will be swapped as well. I just dont want to pull the harness and no longer have spark. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance

Thanks for all the replies! Well this weekend I plan on trying to get it running. So I will report back with the results! On a side note, HybridZ is the only Z site I trust! Everyone here has a wealth of knowledge not matched by any other site! Thanks again!

Well I recently picked up a 100% complete 72' 240Z. The last time it was known to run was 2003. I just got it home last night. I plan to use this thread to update on my progress of bringing her back to life. It needs floors and rails from sitting for so long. But before I even get into doing that. I'd like to try and get it fired up. Now I have a few questions regarding firing it up. Where should I start?i know I'm going to have to pull the fuel tank and do the resealing process. Blow out the lines, clean the carbs the best I can. Change the oil and spark plugs. Pull the dist. cap and check the points, I actually have an extra ZX electronic dist that will go in eventually. Then I guess I should give it a crank and see what happens? Any and all help is greatly appreciated!! Here are a few pics if the car.

I have the front springs and struts. what year rear brakes are you looking for? they are different between years.

what engine mounts did you use?

I have a set, Im located in Oak lawn. Will take $50 for the pair.

Well to answer some of your questions. The oil and filter that was on the car only had about 20 min of idle time on it. So I was not really worried about that. But once I tear into it again I do plan on a new filter and oil. As for oil on the cam, I have had the rocker cover off during this entire process. I have yet to see oil "sling" from the cam. Actually I have yet to see oil drip from the cam at all. But you are correct in the fact that the hard line cracked at the banjo fitting on the turbo. I really dont think it is fixable by any means, So now I have to track down a oil feed line. Im going to the store in a little bit here to find me a long brush and pick up the bits for a fresh oil change I will keep all informed. Thanks for all the helpful hints. hopefully something gives and I get oil psi soon.

I have a hand pump I use for filling my rearends and trany's. I will defiantly give that a try! As for some sort of pipe cleaner.. that is a great idea as well. I will report back tomorrow with an update! Thanks a TON!

Ive decided the only real course of action to take was to pull the head of and look for any clogs or obstructions. I plan on taking it apart after the holiday weekend. will keep any and all progress posted.

Yea, basically I just filled one side then rotated the spindle till it flowed though out. and refilled the other side. and then installed it.

Ok I should have been more clear. This car is not my daily driver. It has been an on going project. This is the last hurdle I have to over come. Its been a long and slow 3 yr build. Is it possible I didnt prime it correctly?

I really dont see that being the case. It didnt knock or tick or anything to suggest of that nature. I really hope that isnt the case.

Yea the car starts and runs fine, I took a look at it while I had the pan off just to make sure. No chipped teeth or anything. Should I maybe put the sending unit in so it can build pressure for the 1st time? What is the actual procedure for priming the pump?

not at the moment, but if there was any sort of pressure would I not be able to see oil coming from the hole where the sending unit screws into? I also have the rocker cover off and I see nothing from the cam..

Well it has been about a month since I had realized that my car had no oil psi. It was a mistake really. I had accidentally cracked the hard line going to the turbo, well I come to soon realize that there is no oil coming from the new crack. I have pulled out all the plugs, and put my starter on a switch so I can turn it over while looking for oil. I dont have a working psi gauge, so I have just taken the sending unit out. I figure that is the my best way to tell right now. So after swapping 3 different pumps I had around the garage, and then bought a new automatic turbo high flow pump. I knew something else was wrong. My only idea of where to look was the pan and pick up tube. I dropped the pan tonight only to find no gasket between the block and pickup. Ok, no big deal I figured it out. Put it all back together, re-primed the pump, and still NO oil psi. I have been though the service manuals, the only thing I can think of is maybe there is a clog somewhere? Maybe the Filter is clogged? I am out of ideas. As for things I have tried, I took my compressor and blew air through the oil pump passages, thinking maybe it might unblock something. Still nothing... Any and all help is greatly appreciated!

Id like to see more pictures of those half moon like headlight covers.. they look good.

he does have a point, if the head was some how lifted during the freeze you would see the air bubbles in the radiator while cranking it over. But thats only if you cant find ur compression tester. Id still do a compression check across the entire motor.

Dear Santa, Ill take a trophy case along with a 4 bay shop. Thank you

I am defiantly interested in hearing on how you shaved the rear and made it look so clean! nice car. love the front air damn...

Ive been racking my brain with wiring diag. Haynes manual, the FSM, and I still have some questions as to the correct wiring. I have labeled 2 pictures. Im trying to swap the 1980 280zx EFI into a 260z, Im not so much worried about the 260z wiring as that is all very well documented. Most of the wiring harness was easy to figgure out, but I dont want to botch this up and fry an ECU. There are 3 harness plugs labeled. Blue/White (thicker gauge) 12v+ Blue 12v+ Blue/Green Fuel Pump relay? Blue/Yellow I have no idea.. Yellow/Black Starter signal. Will I need to hook this up? There is the single Yellow wire by the ecu harness. Is this the 12v+ switched signal wire? I appreciate any and all feedback. Thank you

did you ever figgure this out? i have a whole 80' zx efi that id like to swap on my 260z as well. This info would be really helpful.

All is good. He got the car started. Saw it with my own two eyes. Let the modding begin Randy. Now to get my car started and running propperly.