Grog

I need a short section of 3" ID fuel safe hose, around 4-6" in length. I don't want to buy a 12" section, so if anyone has left-overs let me know.

If you need one of the -3an clutch slave adapters, PM me your address. I have an extra and will send you one.

Has anyone had any problems with the Energy Suspension steel inserts flaring when you torque them down? I have had this happen twice on the same rear passenger side bushing but on none of the others. It's odd, but it began to flare before it was fully torqued. The bushings all measured the same and there was no obstructions. Is flaring normal, or do I need another insert?

Got it. Thanks for the help!

Check out Ron Francis wiring. They can help build a system for you, and it is well worth the money.

Makes sense. The motor is currently set up with a heater hose nipple at the back of the head, which ran to the heater core. Would I be able to use this as the hot supply in lieu of running a hose to the front by he thermostat? I only ask because the coolant system for this car was a bit complicated in design, and looks like crap. I would like a much cleaner install if I can get close to that.

Okay, first off I searched but couldn't find an answer so here it goes. I picked up a 305 TBI engine out of a 1991 RS with the serpentine belt set up. I am converting it to a carb set-up, but I need to know how to set up the coolant lines properly. The water pump does not have a heater hose bung. I have an Edelbrock intake manifold with a water cross-over line at the back by the distributor, and there is a bung for a hose nipple. Do you route one heater hose from the front nipple by the thermostat to the heater core, and the other line at the back of the head to the other port on the heater core? The alternative is to just by a standard rotation pump and v-belt pulleys, but I really don't want to sink money into doing that when I have good parts to begin with. Thanks in advance for any help

Found one! Thanks for all of the offers.

I'm not sure if it will, but I also can't see that Datsun made one specifically for that model. Can you send some pictures?

Im in need of a stock fuel expansion tank. If you have one collecting dust, I'm interested!

PM sent

Still looking

Yep, those are the ones. PM sent.

I am looking for at least two of the 4-lug "Shelby 500" or "Western" style 5 slot mag rims in good condition. Must be 14x7. thanks.

Need a set for a 1975 280Z. Please PM me if you have a set for a fair price. thanks.

Can anyone verify if the maxima rear brackets/280zx brakes and rotors will fit under the 14" mini-mag wheels? I mocked mine up and it appears to fit, but would feel better about going forward with this swap by hearing from someone that already did it. I want to keep the stock alloy rims, so if this set up does not work then I will stick with the drums. thanks.

I am hoping we are talking about the same thing. In the post started by 78zlt1 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/46504-lt1-and-subaru-rack/, in the first set of pictures posted he indicated rotating the servo head 70 degrees to position it. Although it is not necessary to do this using the JTR mounts for a chevy, the pontiac motor swap requires this type of angle to clear the mounts. I don't know if this was just rotating the entire rack to gain that angle, or if the servo can be rotated independently. If I am way off in my thinking, let me know. Otherwise, I need to re-think this swap.

First, i did search. Its been a few years, but something I recall reading somewhere suggested that the subaru steering shaft assembly can be rotated up to 180 degrees. Unfortunately, I cannot recall where I read that - and more importantly - unsure if it is true. I remved the stock crossmember mounts for my Pontiac build and fabricated mount brackets for this swap. I can make the subaru conversion work if the headstock can be repositioned. Can someone confirm if the headstock can be repositioned, and how is this done correctly?

Bump.

I need a usable pair of gas tank straps. Preference is in servicable condition and not heavily rusted or pitted. Grateful if you can provide pictures.

All - I have spent some time debugging the motor upgrade for 1st Gen. Z cars with the 3 position switch (delay module). Please read the entire attachment in its entirety. This works in my car and the park function works. It is not a perfect solution, but if you can live without the wiper delay then follow the modification. Grog Honda wiper conversion.pdf

Good point, although I have a v8 in the car now.

looking for a fuel door, need not be perfect. PM me if you have a spare.

I am looking for a reasonable complete tank, straps and filler neck and filler cap. I sold mine thinking I was going to put in a fuel cell but came to my senses too late. Dents and some external rust are ok. I live in Waynesboro PA and would prefer something nearby to pick up and not ship. thanks.

Need one for a 1972 or a switch with no intermittent wiper function.