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Grog

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Grog last won the day on January 13 2012

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About Grog

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  1. You can run a longer wire if you increase the gauge to compensate for resistance. What is the amperage of your alternator? Eight gauge may be okay. I run 6GA with no issues.
  2. Appreciate the reply, the post helps. That is a tight fit, it must not have been easy coaxing those lines to contort around the back.
  3. For those that have installed a VA compact or mini unit, how much space is there between the back of the unit and the firewall? I'd like to consider running the a/c lines back around to the original firewall penetrations, before I throw down the cash for the system and materials. From some of the pictures I have seen, there isn't much but maybe a few inched for the heater servo valve. It might be enough to run the soft aluminum lines that way and not the stiff hoses I've been seeing. Pictures are always appreciated to get a better sense of the space.
  4. I'll take the spindle pin bushings and side marker light rubber.
  5. I'm looking for a hood safety latch if you have one.
  6. measured as the distance the slave piston pushes the clutch fork. My voices also suggest that your clutch may need replacing if you are getting the proper travel at the slave. I use a bone stock clutch and slave on my T5, but use a Wilwood 7/8 MC. I get 7/8" travel at the slave, and zero issues.
  7. What clutch/pressure plate are you using? If its stock, you should get ~7/8" of travel at the fork. I would also check the clutch pedal linkage in the cabin. If all of that is good, it just may be the throw out bearing.
  8. this worked for me too, and with the stock intermittent relay. Thanks for working out the kinks to this modification!
  9. If you don't want to smell fuel in your garage all the time, keep the evap canister. Its designed to trap fuel vapors during natural expansion, and pulls that vapor into the engine when running. I get it that they are cosmetically unpleasant but they do serve a good purpose.
  10. Post some pictures so we can see.
  11. I obviously respond way too late. Purchased the radiator new off of FleaBay, the fan through Rock Auto, and the radiator mount from one of the members here. I do have a stock radiator from a 76 Grand Prix that I had in it previously, but it won't fit in the JTR mounts; you would have to make a radiator mount for it. I only opted for the Camaro radiator just to save a little weight, but could easily switch back to the Pontiac radiator.
  12. I'll take those gauges. PM sent.
  13. I have seen a number of set ups to wire the Volvo fan relay for use with an aftermarket cooling fan. Not being a big fan of many of those wiring modifications or the prices to set up something more technical, I offer a cheap, easy and safer way to do this. And it works. I have this set up to use the low speed fan signal to a Thunderbird fan, since the climate here doesn't need more than that. You will need: One Volvo fan relay, one SPST relay, and one in line fuse (50-70A). This set up permits you to wire the Volvo fan relay (+) supply line directly to the battery via an in-line fuse (50-70A). How this works is by using the ground signal between the Volvo fan relay and the fan temperature sensor. The SPST relay is installed to energize when it senses a 12V(+) signal that you can hook up to an ignition on terminal (low amp fuse), which closes the contact between the temp sender and the fan relay. Once the engine hits a temp to close the contact in the sender, it trips the Volvo relay to power the fan. Turn off the ignition and it shuts off completely and safely. No hot wires, no toggle switches, expensive solutions or the like. If you need the high speed signal to work, just duplicate using another relay for that signal. Follow the diagram and enjoy.
  14. If you still have the lower control arms, I'll take those along with the clam shell, column ignition and key assembly and the wiper arms.
  15. That's good to know. Thanks for sharing that info!
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