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Grog last won the day on January 13 2012

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  1. You can run a longer wire if you increase the gauge to compensate for resistance. What is the amperage of your alternator? Eight gauge may be okay. I run 6GA with no issues.
  2. Appreciate the reply, the post helps. That is a tight fit, it must not have been easy coaxing those lines to contort around the back.
  3. For those that have installed a VA compact or mini unit, how much space is there between the back of the unit and the firewall? I'd like to consider running the a/c lines back around to the original firewall penetrations, before I throw down the cash for the system and materials. From some of the pictures I have seen, there isn't much but maybe a few inched for the heater servo valve. It might be enough to run the soft aluminum lines that way and not the stiff hoses I've been seeing. Pictures are always appreciated to get a better sense of the space.
  4. I'll take the spindle pin bushings and side marker light rubber.
  5. I'm looking for a hood safety latch if you have one.
  6. measured as the distance the slave piston pushes the clutch fork. My voices also suggest that your clutch may need replacing if you are getting the proper travel at the slave. I use a bone stock clutch and slave on my T5, but use a Wilwood 7/8 MC. I get 7/8" travel at the slave, and zero issues.
  7. What clutch/pressure plate are you using? If its stock, you should get ~7/8" of travel at the fork. I would also check the clutch pedal linkage in the cabin. If all of that is good, it just may be the throw out bearing.
  8. this worked for me too, and with the stock intermittent relay. Thanks for working out the kinks to this modification!
  9. If you don't want to smell fuel in your garage all the time, keep the evap canister. Its designed to trap fuel vapors during natural expansion, and pulls that vapor into the engine when running. I get it that they are cosmetically unpleasant but they do serve a good purpose.
  10. Post some pictures so we can see.
  11. I obviously respond way too late. Purchased the radiator new off of FleaBay, the fan through Rock Auto, and the radiator mount from one of the members here. I do have a stock radiator from a 76 Grand Prix that I had in it previously, but it won't fit in the JTR mounts; you would have to make a radiator mount for it. I only opted for the Camaro radiator just to save a little weight, but could easily switch back to the Pontiac radiator.
  12. I have seen a number of set ups to wire the Volvo fan relay for use with an aftermarket cooling fan. Not being a big fan of many of those wiring modifications or the prices to set up something more technical, I offer a cheap, easy and safer way to do this. And it works. I have this set up to use the low speed fan signal to a Thunderbird fan, since the climate here doesn't need more than that. You will need: One Volvo fan relay, one SPST relay, and one in line fuse (50-70A). This set up permits you to wire the Volvo fan relay (+) supply line directly to the battery via an in
  13. That's good to know. Thanks for sharing that info!
  14. Its from a 94-97 T-Bird. I picked this one up for less than 70.00 to my door. JTR still makes the radiator bracket but its out of aluminum now. Its possible they had suspended production at some point to switch materials.
  15. Purely FYI. I largely followed the JTR book on cooling by purchasing the Mid 80s Camaro radiator and by using the JTR radiator cradle. I have one of the older galvanized steel cradles so it may look a bit different that the newer ones made from aluminum. Be careful about getting the correct radiator; the JTR recommended radiator is more expensive that the larger one of the same vintage. I picked mine up off of fleabay for ~$110.00. The only thing about using the Camaro radiator is that its next to impossible to find the rubber isolators. I ended up using a set of urethane isolators (under $18.
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