peej410

John, Respectfully, mine is a 500+hp build with block fill. Though a dual pass radiator will likely end up in the car haha. Maybe its worth a try but i have two events upcoming and this setrab and the parts to plumb it are already here!

My engine (coolant) cooling is going to be taxed as its. Oil to water heat exchanger will put me over the edge for sure

So, Im working on mounting the oil cooler for my Z. The oil cooler is nearly as large as the opening for my radiator! So I wanted some opinions before I make all the bracketry and plumb the whole thing only to find out its a bad idea. Most aftermarket oil coolers are mounted in front of the radiator, many race setups are mounted behind (Nascar stuff seen on ebay) OE applications that I have had the privilege of working on (BMW) are mounted BELOW the radiator. Obviously based on this, you can see I am limited on space... Untitled by peej410, on Flickr So here are my questions. Should I seal the cooler to the radiator? Should I put it as close as possible? Should I leave an air space between them? Should I mount it off set to the PS side since the "hot side" of the rad is on the DS ? Does any of this even matter? Heres a few other angles, Untitled by peej410, on Flickr Untitled by peej410, on Flickr This is what I am doing to combat the cooling and aero issues. Untitled by peej410, on Flickr Untitled by peej410, on Flickr Untitled by peej410, on Flickr I think that the curve of the duct exiting may be too shallow. Any input?

I still love ya Mike.

RSI. You cant "know" until you try. Mike posted to share so we wouldn't waste our time/money the same choice. Its not data aquisition, its a dynapac dynamometer.

The area is not the only aspect of what matters. Shape usually effects flow disproportionately to area. This is one of the reasons why you cant just hog out cylinder heads and expect to make tons of power.

I swore to myself that I read it in one of the Vizard books but right now I cannot find it. Until I have some verifiable proof above and beyond internet here-say I will have to rescind my comment! If i do recall correctly though, It was preferred for the carb to siphon air radially because of the venturi inlets. When using a drop base air housing and a short filter were the only times it benefitted. Using the correctly sized air cleaner for your drop base made more power. Untitled by peej410, on Flickr This was my original setup. There was less than an inch to the aircleaner lid. pjhptqaf by peej410, on Flickr This was the dyno curve. Notice HP flatlines at 5300 or so while air fuel shows slightly leaner (this was un-tuned) Untitled by peej410, on Flickr I modified (heavily) and lowered the base and flattened the top for hood clearance. The four inch element should help a lot. Though I decided to build headers between the last dyno and future dyno runs so I cannot compare directly, but I will surely swap the 4" for the 3" I used to have to see what it does.

The filter top may help or hurt. Hard to say because you are EFI most carbs dont like the filter top because it disturbs airflow. Howd you make out at the track today?

Chris, The welds on the insides are nice and flat the primaries are 16ga so I wasnt burning through often. I also used .40 filler rod so I wouldnt need too much heat. In the puddle though, you could see contamination (which Immediately thought to back-purge) once it cooled it was obvious it was dissimilar metals you could see a mix of aluminum speckles and mild steel. I tried a lot of options aside from grinding deep into the material there wasnt anything I could do that wasnt going to take minutes per weld joint.

I have looked at it for sure. Trouble is, I dont know if it would be positive or negative results. This is a good article to read prior to messing with your exhaust systems. http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/hardcore/0505em_exh/viewall.html That and a copy of Pipemax software is all I needed to design the system. In a few weeks we will get on the dyno!

Well in my car (heavily cut up) if the two mufflers dont cut it, i plan to hog out either floor under driver and passenger respectively to allow for two more mufflers before the X pipe. The problem so far is that the mufflers that are available ruin my total tuned length goal. I need mufflers that the exhaust reacts to like it would straight tube, not an expansion chamber like most good sound attenuating mufflers offer. I really want to cut the floors anyways, but the season is nearing the half way mark and I really would like some track time!

Bleeding a clutch is deceptively difficult. Going extremely slow with the pedal helps a great deal. You can make something like this as well, http://www.bavauto.com/fland.asp?part=CBT%20TOOL&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googlebase&utm_source=CBT%20TOOL&gclid=CP33o-nr6LcCFUyk4AodbDUAhA Just make sure you only depress the pedal when the valve is open or parts will go flying and you will break your tool. Though apparently you need a larger master, either route you go, a tool like this is helpful

Fathers day update! I lost my pops a few years ago and last night had an odd energy push into the late hours of the night. This was the result http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-QlYpB2D6HQ Thanks for the nudge pops! I am trying to figure out where to put the mufflers. I may have them come out of each rear quarter like most setups but getting between the tires and the fuel cell will be difficult. I could just dump them in the center and put the mufflers under the tank but it would defeat the whole diffuser plan. Any input?

Untitled by peej410, on Flickr Admittedly this is the only update. Tig welding the aluminized header kit just plain sucks. Even grinding it clean inside and out it wont weld clean. Anyways, after coating they will be installed (hopefully this weekend)

I have a custom made driveshaft with new 1310 joints and the right adapter for the diff if you need. Its just missing the T5 yoke. Order up a T5 yoke. Measure from bellhousing to output shaft flange on current trans then measure T5. Subtract the two. Measure distance of current shaft center on center at U joints on drive shaft body, subtract length difference between transmissions from length of shaft.

There are certain tricks that worked nice. I cut slots into hose clamps through the ribs to position and reposition tubes and be able to tack weld the center through the clamps (start with wide clamps!) Make sure you are well grounded and your tungsten is sharp though. The ark likes to jump to the clamp because of its sharp edge. The other is marking tubes so they are cut square and plumb. I used a combination of painters tape. the clamps and actually found that you can slide a roll of painters tape right over 3" tube allowing you to give a nice round marking line to cut on. I hope to have it making noise by next weekend!

So, in my E36 suspension swap thread I touched upon how my motor made 370 at the wheels. Significantly lower than I was expecting. This was through ebay block hugger headers and a poorly executed (me) dual 2.5" exhaust. Then I got bored around christmas and bought a summer 1-3/4 header build kit, some V-bands and bought a copy of PipeMax software. Here are the subsequent advancements in my Z exhaust. Disappointing dyno pjhptq by peej410, on Flickr Motor. ooo shiny. 76923_10150097380041350_1847848_n by peej410, on Flickr Swageing(SP?) tubes before Header stub shafts. by peej410, on Flickr After Header stub shafts. by peej410, on Flickr Many Header stub shafts. by peej410, on Flickr DIRTY FRAME RAILS MAKE ME ANGRY Header stub shafts. by peej410, on Flickr MMMMM interfacing Untitled by peej410, on Flickr I have since welded a ground lug to the body... Untitled by peej410, on Flickr ugggles Untitled by peej410, on Flickr Megaphones? Untitled by peej410, on Flickr Untitled by peej410, on Flickr Untitled by peej410, on Flickr Untitled by peej410, on Flickr Untitled by peej410, on Flickr Untitled by peej410, on Flickr Embarrassingly enough, I mixed up the center two primaries, (which is what I get for working on it 2hrs at time) and am fixing it tonight) Untitled by peej410, on Flickr And I want to change the 3rd primary in this photo so its not as sharp. Its very hard to build them in the car but no choice really. Untitled by peej410, on Flickr Close up of the secondary collector and megaphone. Some day Ill fix the transition from the secondaries into the collector choke but for now they remain as is. Untitled by peej410, on Flickr Shot of my fugly floors Untitled by peej410, on Flickr The X pipe fits nicely right in front of the diff. its location is not yet fixed. The idea is to make the exhaust behind it parallel so I can slide the X pipe fore and aft to fine tune the position. Untitled by peej410, on Flickr Finally out of the car for modifications and final weld. Untitled by peej410, on Flickr I made the center section near parallel so that If i need extra muffles I can put two offset 3" mufflers in the middle underneath the driver and passenger. Untitled by peej410, on Flickr Money shot Untitled by peej410, on Flickr Mounting will be with these powerflex jobbers http://powerflexusa.com/exhaustmountsexhaustmountsuniversalexhaustmount-exh001.aspx Mufflers I haven't 100% decided on yet This is what you can do with a strong background in fabrication, a new sawzall, good blades, a vise and some various hand held air tools. Criticisms welcome!

I do, I am trying to avoid any more holes in the firewall, the fumes from the motor render it nearly useless at times. It is truly nauseating and I have a pretty solid stomach for smells. I received the slip joints for the secondaries, the flat sheet to make the megaphones and the reduction cones back down to three inch. It is going to take forever to finish but the hard part is done!

Untitled by peej410, on Flickr Untitled by peej410, on Flickr Untitled by peej410, on Flickr I really need to clean up the bottom of the frame rails! Years ago when I first painted the engine bay (POR hardnose SUCKS, or im just an idiot) I ran out before I did the bottom of the frame rails and I haven't bothered finishing them up! Untitled by peej410, on Flickr I really need to weld a stud to the body for the ground straps too. Details details. The passenger side header is so tight that the driver side already feels like a cake walk. It isnt my best work but Ive been trying to work on it 2 hours at a time after 12 hour days at work lately. Hopefully she will debut at LRP April 19th

I started the process of custom headers... I am still wondering what possessed me to take on something like this literally right after finishing my suspension swap, http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/105513-e36-m3-suspension-in-a-240z/?p=1036710 I looked quick but couldnt figure out who was the mod for the suspension forum. I would like to convert my thread into a build thread if possible.

I see you mentioned potentially using BMW front suspension. If you want details about adapting it, let me know. Mine is in and works great.

Thanks! It helped a lot. I am now working on the primaries. The passenger side is so tight, Between my gigantic TC buckets and a custom really low motor setup The collectors are going to end up 2inches lower than the subframe. On a side note. Should I ask to have this thread moved? It has gone beyond just suspension, Or start a new thread about headers?

So, I got bored and decided to build some headers and go full 3" dual till the back of the car. (then reuse the 2.5 Magnaflows) Untitled by peej410, on Flickr Untitled by peej410, on Flickr Header stub shafts. by peej410, on Flickr Header stub shafts. by peej410, on Flickr Header stub shafts. by peej410, on Flickr Untitled by peej410, on Flickr Untitled by peej410, on Flickr Header stub shafts. by peej410, on Flickr More photos soon!

Off Topic: Mike the little one just saw your car and said WOAH Its another Zoey! (my cars "name") She wanted me to ask what her name is. I just went and measured mine. 4.5 to the bottom of the lip with the front tires likely low on pressure. Good eyes haha.

I guess a purchase from amazon is in order!