peej410

I think that 70-72 and 73+ have slightly different front control arms. im not sure about this but could this be the case? i had the same problem but when i looked at the package it said 73+. anyways i just thought id add my .02

hi, id love to buy some brakes from you, id also love to run 5 lug, im building a 72 240z with a SBC for the go part. it will see the strip and probably limerock raceway here in CT other then that itll be a daily driver. what would you suggest for a first time car builder (welding in my own frame) id love to have a sick set of brakes and id love to swap to disks in the rear. thanks for your time - pete

back yard job all the way, do the work yourself and the money you save can buy you the right tools to do it. might be expensive for your first project but the next time around you wont be able to buy the knowledge you gained and youll already have the tools. im 20 i have a mig full set of air tools and pretty much everything else i need to get jobs done, and now im doing some work on the side for other people and im making decent money. its a wonderful experience and youll never forget it if you take your time - Pete

your page is what inspired me to do this whole thing myself ive never done this stuff before , i wish i had someone that could come to my house and be like here do this this and this, its the only way i learn lol i do appreciate the help though. ill have to reread it a few times heres the link again http://www.geocities.com/peej410/MVC-008s.jpg -Pete

im interested shoot me an email at peej410@aol.com

search www.car-part.com ive been contemplating swapping one into my maxima while im done with my Z i saw one for 1500 on there , good luck

well this is what im doing i bought a mig taught my self to weld really solid flat beads at a real high heat and prefabbed a front frame section out of 3x2 1/8 inch rectangular tube (overkill i know) im at the point where im joining it with the sheet metal on my Z prefab trial fit thats one of the pictures of it. i left the brackets for the subframe attached to the sheet metal for referance points for the framerails. i have a few questions, besides checking for level what measurements can i take to make sure this is straight (car was level before frame rails were removed) the frame is cut to exact lengths and square. i knew this isnt a job for novices but im more then willing to jump in over my head at any point for my car. what things have i overlooked and what points are good to measure from when doing this sort of thing. thanks for your time -Pete

thanks , i did a search and came up with those too. after calling jegs and talking to a tech with a brain this time it was explained that the semi-welded kit is basically a whole frame and is massively extensive and time consuming. instead im going to make my own framerails and design my own semi-cage. a cage for a street car is a bad idea i guess because those overhead bars can do a number on your head even with padding in an accident so those are out. thanks for your time - Pete

I need some help if anyone can... I crashed my Z a few months ago and i need to replace the front passenger framerail. along with bending back the sheetmetal and what have you, i recently bought a mig and i want to do a rollcage in my Z according to the jegs tech the 12 point semiwelded cage includes the front framerails. the jegs kit is setup to run the jegster front end but i will be desinging my own front suspension, my question is, will the jegs kit have the parts in it to fix my frame problem or do i still need to get framerails?. also what is the difference between the un welded and semiwelded jegs kit? thanks for your time - Pete

as far as securing the dash cover some big aluminum rivets might look really really cool. they are easy to replace if needed and give that race car look/simplicity

hey all i have a 72 datsun Z which i bent up a little while ago. the right hand TC rod pushed the frame rail in and then the whole assembly folded upwards so that it was almost hitting my starter. the car is stock, its going to a frame shop to be pulled. i am replacing both frame rails as soon as its back. my question is, are there any options to the 240z front suspension? i recently looked at the whole front suspension out of a 2001 ls1 camaro and i was like hmmm, i took some measurements and its not too far off. i might end up taking 4 inches out of the center subframe to bring it closer to stock specs. what i need is advice on this. i can have the whole front end with struts springs brakes and steering rack for about 750 and its mint but its taking up space in my bosses garage. what things should i think of before i get started with something like this? are there other options at all ? i tried doing a search but i didnt find anything. also does anyone know of where i can get a book on building tube frames? im getting a mig soon and i know how to weld id like to get more info. sorry bout the huge post sorry if it doesnt make sense, i really need opinions and suggestions, thanks for your time - Pete the newbie

john where did u meet your wife, i need a girl that is that into motorsports

i went to my local barnes and noble and got chassis engineering by herb adams, im reading it now. illpost if i have more questions thank u -Pete

well flares could work but then id have to run a negative offset and i dont want to give up the deep dish wheel look (one of the only aesthetic related things that i care for) the suspension on the Z looks really flimsy. i cant really afford to make my own wishbones and try and get the geometry right. id really like something a bit more sturdy in the front end of my car. if i should just stick with what ive got i guess thats fine. as far as mounting the subframe it mounts almost in the same way the datsun subframe mounts four bolts to the frame rails. do any other cars have setups similar to the datsun that i could steal the suspension from ?