peej410

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alright because i wanted to do the S12W setup up front and i have a friend that can get me calipers pads and rotors really cheap. my rear brakes are also shot (one of the rear cylinders blew and caused my accident with my Z) so i was looking into the 240sx rear disk setup. i also need to replace all my lines and parking brake cables. my only problem is a lack of funds so im trying to do this as inexpensively as possible, what are my options?

If i do the 240sx read disk conversion now, will it interfere with a future upgrade to the r200 or r230 with CVs? Also i need to do all of my brake lines throughout the whole car. i was going to order the stainless kit from classictube.com what else will i need to do replace all the lines

Thank you all for the kind words, sorry about the links, geocities doesnt really like being linked to. Yes i did make the floors myself, i also made my own makeshift sheet metal brake using two 4 foot pieces of angle iron and three large c clamps. one welded on each end (the wont stay if they arent welded) and one positoned in the middle. The inherent downfall to the design is that the center clamp limits the distance from the edge of the sheet to the bend. anyways thanks again guys 1 down 1 to go good luck denny with the chevelle post pics if you can when that puppy is done -pete

Hey all i just finished my first floor ever on my Z and i wanted your opinions. if the links dont work, cut and paste the urls. Id like any and all constructive criticism. IE: if i did something wrong dont be afraid to say so... BTW the floors look alot worse then they are because i started stripping the anti rust goop so that i can paint them - pete http://www.geocities.com/peej410/mvc-015s.jpg http://www.geocities.com/peej410/mvc-017s.jpg

moving the battery to the back would even it up 30+ lbs

if youd like to go to the double wishbone setup id be more then happy to purchase all of the parts that you cant use even the brakes. As long as your not asking more then what they were new i was also considering this and i found a great website for parts if your interested http://www.cmwraceparts.com/ go to the online catalog, they have prices listed their prices are fantastic and if u click on the little camera of each product they have pictures up too goodluck - pete

to save the work of bending all the sheetmetal by hand and have a brand new factory transmission tunnel/floor for my car id drive to canada

that site is soooooo coool. when im done with my V8z i wanna do a porsche 944 with a v8 or rx7 v8. hehehe

FULL FLOOR PAN WITH TRANSMISSION TUNNEL OEM FROM DATSUN BRAND NEW NO RUST ON EBAY. Im going to be sick, i just started bending all my sheetmetal by hand to do my floors http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1867779045 only 17 hours left and counting take a looksee

the LS6 used to be an all aluminum 454 back in the day. i saw one once it was massive and awesome. the new ls6 is a modified vesion of the ls1 in the new z06 vette as previously stated - pete

take two stock springs cut off 1/4 of the first and last coils and thread the springs together (like two heli-coils)(or two screws) using a big mig welder or an arc welder and weld the tops and bottoms of the spring together. DOUBLE your spring rate. im just kidding though goodluck

it explains in detail the ins and outs of the Z's unibody. including stresses, weak points, strong points, its very interesting reading, i suggest everyone interested take a peak http://zccw.org/Tech/Body/08-97AnalysisEarlyZChassis.html -Pete

i have two front strut assemblies of a 71 240z if u need one or both let me know by email - Peej410@yahoo.com -pete

i think this has already been done, there are a few different ways it can be done, i would use heim joints if i were you. Heres another way to do it, but i dont agree with the design http://www.usq.edu.au/users/degroot/240z/Pages/suspension.htm the reason i dont like the design of the rear a-arm is that it wouldnt effectively adjust toe, because of where the adjustments are the a-arm would bind when you try to adjust toe. i understand that for camber this would be effective but theres no point in putting the adjustments there if u cant adjust toe too. i like your idea better. if i find a picture of it done ill send you the link - pete

thanks man i appreciate all the kind words and the help u guys give. if it wasnt for you all id be lost - pete

awesome suggestions im excited now heh, ive got all this wood that i was going to use to build a bench before i got my sawzall and mig (after that any suggestion of space for a bench went to hell)anyways i will try both those methods. im lucky that the guy that i buy my metal from is a nice guy he figured out how to get both floor pans out of one 4x8 piece in order to save me lots of money hes really cool. i got the whole sheet for 48 i think and he cut it into a bunch of pieces perfect to make whatever i want with and have plenty of extra for my floors. im heading home from the dorm soon to floor my Z wish me luck - pete

i thought id update you guys on my quest to replace floors and framerails in my Z. Last night i cut out my drivers side floor in one big piece. I cut and welded up a framerail (front to rear frametie) in place so that the body wouldnt want to stretch at all. now i need to bend the sheet metal to the shape of my floors. I have two questions. #1 whats the best way to bend the pieces of sheet metal (18ga) to the shape i need? should i measure mark and use a brake (my friends dad has one bout 3 miles from my house) or should i make a jig out of 2x4s almost like a saw horse and a mallet to bend the steal into shape? #2 when i cut the floor out i noticed that when my Z was molested by its previous owner. he only capped over the rusted parts of what were the inner rockers and thus they have rusted away. should i replace them with a tube similar to the one i used for my frame ties? should i just use sheetmetal (without the stamping/holes it might not be rigid enough) im truely baffled as to what i should do about it. if youve got any info youd like to share id appreciate it much have a good day - Pete

if you go to your local pepboys or autozone you can get sway bar endlinks for about 15 dollars they come with all new hardware including beefy new bolts and sleeves and big thick washers. they are usually no more then $15 as far as cutting yours i wouldnt recommend it. if you cant get endlinks id suggest go to your local hardware store and ask for grade 8 or 9 bolts bring everything with you (stock and aftermarket bushings) and find a bolt thats long enough to work and a steel sleeve (for between the bushings)that will work too. make sure the bolt has a long unthreaded section for the bushings to sit on. i hope this helped a little bit. im pretty bad at explaining things but if u need more help send me an email or message me on aim or yahoo at peej410 good luck -pete

vg30det is a single turbo dohc vg based motor vg30dett is a twin turbo dohc vg based motor the vg series blocks are usually refered to as one of the most bullet proof blocks ever produced by nissan. however i may be wrong. vg30's (non-turbo) can be found in everything from pathfinders to maximas ... i personally would love to see the brand new vq35 in a Z maybe if i can come up with the scratch someday thats what ill run. hope i helped a lil if im wrong let me know - pete

tomahawk its not every day that someone actually realizes that my screen name is PJ haha people usually call me pee ? but anyways, nope its a legit powder coating over. his father got it from his work. its an older model they didnt need anymore. so far i havent powder coated anything just sanded primed and painted because i know this wont be the last time im working with the suspension on the thing. next time around im going to have it all prefessionally sandblasted so that i can powder coat it but thats when i can afford to upgrade to the coilovers and crap. by then ill be good enough at metal work to make my own suspension parts. if anyone knows of a 383 or a t-5 or both with everything in between let me know. even if it needs a rebuild a 350 could work too. thanks guys - pete

wow guys thanks for the praise, all my buddies rag on me saying that im never gonna get the car done and that its a rat box. i think itll be the beefiest ratbox ill ever drive. now i just need to replace all the fuel and brake lines the front calipers with the toyota 4x4 conversion, need to find a pair of rear struts somewhere in the state then i can put the car back on the ground. put the motor and tranny back in till i get it through inspection then buy my 383 and have a field day. If anyone in new england needs Z parts i have tons. if you want custom work done let me know. i have a sand blaster and i have access to a powder coating oven big enough for a 19inch wheel and id be glad to help u guys out -pete

thank you that means alot coming from ya, its my first real car build up. my father isnt into cars at all so ive had to kinda figure everything out for myself, you guys help alot with that , i figured buying the tools (mig, air tools...) and learning how to do things would be more beneficial then having someone do it for me. I was also concerned about warping the floors, i have tendancy to over-do everything, rather then trying to restrain myself which distracts me i try and figure out a method that will benefit from a little extra. IE: although i know going with a thicker steel tubing (1/8") will just add unnecesary weight i decided to use the 1/8 anyways which cant hurt, only slow me down. anyways enough crap. i think i might get one of those hydraulic benders. -pete

the stupid link doesnt work again damn geocities. if you cutnpaste the url it should work

with your help pete i got the framerails in the engine bay http://www.geocities.com/peej410/MVC-009S.JPG thats the finished pic. its time for me to do the subframe connectors and i have a question. my floors were repaired and they werent repaired correctly, thus my floors arent flat at their lowest part. aside from cutting a 2inch wide strip down each floor to mount the subframe connectors, what are my options? also is the use of round tube plausible? i could get round tube bent to the contour of the floors and mount it underneath, let me know what you think. this is the last of the framework that i have to do. so far i welded that frame into the engine bay and ive only been welding for a few months, my boss (used to weld by trade) was very impressed with the beads i layed out. anyways any info is much appreciated - Pete