Cutlass372

Thats kind of what I was thinking. Are the R200 and the R180 front mounts the same? (Except for the bigger exhaust cutout)?

I can't seem to find out what that thing is.. It doesn't look like the front mounts I have seen. I am trying to swap a R200 3.9 into my 72 240z and I was told this is what I would need, however, where does this piece go? Thanks a lot, Elliot

I need the mustache bar, Front diff mount (I have the insulator) and the rear transverse link mount.

Hey everyone, I am looking for a mustache bar for my R200 swap into my 240z. Any other parts needed for the swap interest me as well. Let me know what you have and we can go from there. Thanks, Elliot

Look on philadelphia craigslist if you are willing to travel. There are a few on there for like $50.

Still looking for a set of Tokico Illuminas, anyone have a set of 4?

Oh sorry, I thought my car was listed by my avatar. I need them for a 72 240z

Hey everyone, I am looking to buy some new/lightly used Tokico Illuminas and AZ car springs. If anyone one has some for sale, please send me a PM. The Illuminas are prefered, but let me know what you have. Thanks, Elliot

Hey everyone, I was doing some searching and didn't come up with to many definitive answers. From what I remember when I replaced my ball joints, the seats and the mounts look ok. The only thing that seemed to be messed up was the bump stop (very dry rotted and gritty). Can I reuse these and just use the bump stops I get with my new bushings? I am trying to save as much money as possible and these things aren't cheap. What do you guys think? Thanks, Elliot

The rest of the dash is fine except for the crack she put in it over the glove box. Repairing this one is definately an option if the place does a good job. Has anyone had good luck with Just Dashes? Also, having it repaired is a problem due to shipping and waiting for it to come back. I guess I will have to give them a call. How is there outcome thought? Thanks, Elliot

Forgot to add that my email is Cutlass375@yahoo.com if you wanna send any pics. Or just post them here.

Hey everyone, my Girlfriend just smashed my uncracked dashboard in my 72 240z... (SOOO pissed off!) I am looking for an uncracked dash as close to PA as possible. The dash has the hazard switch with label below the cig lighter. Send me some pics of what you have and I'll see if they match up. Thanks for any help, Elliot.

Thanks for the info guys, it's really helping me out. I think that the ECU and the harness (anything not attached directly to the engine) will be separate from the $400, do you think thats to much?

Should I get it though? $400 for the WHOLE motor? I just don't know about the other parts, but i wouldn't expect a lot for money. I will have to figure that out.

It is everything, I was just using that term to mean the whole motor, The motor and all of its accessories are included from my understanding.

Yes, everything on the motor, complete from valve cover to pan. I am assuming that everything else I want will be a little more extra (harness,ecu,etc). Is that the head that I want or don't want lol.

No not everything, $400 for the motor removed from the car. Maybe he would let me do it myself for cheaper? I'm just not sure how this place works. I am assuming the other stuff is extra?

Hey, Local to me there is an 83 280zx turbo in a junkyard with a running motor. I have been talking with the guy and he said he got it running today and had it running for 1/2 an hour. He said he would work with me on the other things I would need for the swap into my 72 240z. Does this seem like a good deal? The yard is only 10-15 mins from my house, I don't think I could find a better deal then this locally. He also said he has a 76 280z, does the gas tank from that work with the swap I need? Thanks for any help, Elliot.

Anyone know what this could be? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,Elliot

Hey everyone, I set the timing on my 72 240z at 10 degrees BTDC at around 750-800 RPMs. When I look at the cap and rotor though, there is a black mark at the extreme end of the rotor(all the way ccw) and there are marks on the cap to the extreme ccw side too. Would this mean that my timing is off? The cap is getting sorta blackened so I am assuming there is a good spark. Nothing really seems out of place except that and its lacking in low end power. It might be missing a little bit? But it seems hard to tell. Should I try and change it a little? It seems like it I retard it it runs worse. I am getting the carbs tuned on the 7th so I guess we will see how that goes too.

I know this thread is mighty old, but would any of you guys be willing to help me out with tuning and getting my car to run right? I am about and hour north of Philly in doylestown, Pa. I can meet up most anywhere.

Ok, I set the timing at 10 degrees btdc at around 750-800 rpms. Checked my plugs and the rears looked normal to on the lean side and the front 3 were black and dry (rich). I checked with multimeter on the coil and it was around 6 volts at idle, around 8v at maybe 3-4k and 12+ around 5+. I couldn't see the tac so im am just guessing from ear. The stutter still happens at like 5.5k rpms. Voltage at the battery was 14v while running. Most things seem right except the carbs being not balanced. Should I move in that direction? Ps: When I would rev high the multimeter would go blank, not say 0 but would go blank with maybe a dash. Was I just reving to fast that it couldn't keep up? Thanks, Elliot.

Oh, I also forgot to say.. I had my timing light hooked up and when I revved to the problem area the light would flicker. I guess this means I am not getting spark at the higher Rpms. How would I fix this?

So I lowered the Idle to around 900 and the car seems to run a little better. I can get it to rev to around 5.5-6k while driving then it does the sputter thing. Do you think that it could be my mixture? I attached the wires like the picture above and I think that helped a little too. The car does backfire when decelerating in gear and stinks like gas, would that make it rich or lean? I know the baseline is 2.5 turns out, is that on the adjuster where the choke pops out the bottom? What way do I adjust from the baseline to richen or lean out the mixture?

So I hooked the black and white (the one from the ballast) to coil + and it reved maybe a little higher, but still not free throught the range. The diagrams help, but they dont say what wire goes where. It just says to attach the wire from the ign switch to coil +.. Well.. is it the green/blue or white/black one? I need to see a picture of this ignitor actually installed on a 240z without the ballast. I just can't see how they go, its not descriptive enough. I can see how it was, but not how it should be.. This is so awful and confusing haha. I just want my car to run right again. Thanks for all the help so far, but this seems hopeless..