Cutlass372

How would I connect the wire that I put in place of the BR, It is two wires connected to be one wire. Should they both just go on the coil +? I'm sorry, I just don't understand that part.

Here are some pictures I just took, does this look right?

All the way to the left standing where? Looking forward from the passanger side?

So I got the part that I needed (and replaced the plugs), tried to set the timing and it still doesnt seem right. When driving I get to around 4500 rpms and the car starts to cut in and out. It goes up in rpm, but it is very choppy and makes the tac jump around some. Right now I have both of the wires that came off the Ballast wired together, the black and white (i believe) on the positive, red and black on + and -, and I believe another black on the -. Does this seem right? Maybe this is the problem? Also, where should the timing be? What mark is TDC, the one all the way to the right or to the left and what mark should I have it set on at idle. I need help trying to set this right, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Elliot

Hey everyone, I just broke the distributor mounting bracket on my 72. Does anyone have an extra one they could throw me for a few bucks? It's a stock 2.4L. Im talking about the part with the timing mark that the distributor slides into. PM Me here or send me an email at Cutlass375@yahoo.com. You can also reach me on AIM at Cutlass372 (the email is 375 and AIM is 372). Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Elliot

So I checked the timing and moved it to where it wanted to be, reved it up and the idle jumps and stays at 1500. When this happens it makes the timing off again (maybe cause the increase in RPMs? Also I broke off the distributor hold down bolt and now it need a new one.. Anyone have an extra one they would want to possibly donate for the cost of shipping (72 2.4L)? It would certainly help me out. Where should I look to fix these problems? The car reved up much better, but seemed to get stuck around 6k.

So the timing was almost fully retarded, so I advanced it a little at a time and It wanted to be fully advanced. I got it to rev to like 6k in neutral and 5.5-6k under load, but it still doesn't rev freely through its range. Where should I look now? I still have the condensors hooked up, so maybe I should take them off? What do you suggest?

Hey everyone, I just installed the Pertronix ignitor and flamethrower coil on my 72 240z. Everything was running ok before I replaced the ignitor and now it wont rev past 4k. I haven't checked the timing yet, but I dont think that would be far off as it was running ok earlier. When it hits 4 to 4.5k its like it hits a rev limiter and backfires. I disconnected the BR and put a wire in between the 2 that were coming off it (with 2 male connectors). Everything else is still connected like the condensor and stuff. Where do I look? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Elliot.

Sorry, 72 240z stock. I replaced the tranny from another 240z and everything worked fine with my old MC

Hey, I just replaced my clutch master cylinder and now the clutch fork is moving in the wrong direction.. The part number for the cylinder is correct with what It shows i need.. What would be causing this problem? Also, there is only about 1-2 inches of clutch off the floor. Its like the rod isnt long enough?? What is this!?

I mean I didn't check how it was before because they were bad, but.. the driver side wheel is pretty tight up and down, but the passanger feels like it has a little wiggle. I can see that the ball joint is not moving and it looks like just the wheel is the part that is moving back and forth. Everything is as tight as I thought it should be so I have no idea what is up. The car looks like it could use an alignment, but I don't think that would cause movement up and down..

Hey everyone, I just replaced my ball joints and tie rod ends. When I shake the passanger wheel at 12 and 6 there is still a little play, but no movement in the ball joint. Would this be wheel bearings or something? I read about the spindle being worn or the hub out of round, but I'm not quite sure. It is only minimal play, but play none the less. What should I look into? I need to get this resolved before I go in for inspection. What do you think? Thanks, Elliot

No pictures of the wheels on a car?

No one has any actual pictures?

Hey everyone, I have been looking online for pictures of a 240z with Rota Rb-r's in flat black (16x8). I know that some people on here were thinking about getting some, but I can't seem to find any pictures. Someone post up some pictures of some nice examples or other flat black wheel selections preferably on a white car. Thanks, Elliot

That is a Honda S2000 seat.

I have been using universals, but the deep sockets might be a good idea. The pipes are just very tight on the ends so i'll have to try, thanks for the idea though. I really wanna get this car on the road though and start tearing it up lol. Some day . Thanks for the responses guys, keep them coming.

I haven't had a chance to really drive it around as one of the fenders are off. The motor did tap a little before I changed to headers, but I know there are some exhaust leaks. The only problem is trying to get the headers tighter.. The bolts that the intake and Header both use are extremely hard to get onto straight and I am having some trouble getting them tight. Does anyone know a trick to tighten these down? It would help me out a whole lot. It isn't really that loud for my taste, however some of you my find it a little to loud for your taste. Any help on the header nuts would be greatly appreciated.

Here is the video as promised. Sorry you can't see **** till I turn the lights on, I had to wait till the batteries in the camera charged. It was kinda cold when I started it so thats why it sounds wierd at first. I dont think this video really does the exhaust justice but.. atleast it will give you guys some idea.

Hey everyone, I just received my MSA Twice Pipes today and thought I would post some pics. The pipes seem to be of pretty good quality, all the welds seem nice and the pipes were fairly easy to slide together. I plan to install the pipes within the next few days, but I need to find time to get to Napa to pick up my headers gaskets. My total came to $200 and included the Twice pipes and a set of intake and exhaust studs and nuts. This thing looks like its going to be pretty loud, so we will see how it goes. I will try and get some videos up once the pipes are on, I know videos may persuade some of you guys to go this route as well. It's going on a stock rebuilt L24 with twin Su carbs. Pretty much a normal stock install with 3-2 headers. I'll let you know how it goes.

Anyone know? A lot of you guys have hagerty. Do you have classic tags or no?

Do you need classic or antique tags to have collectors insurance from Hagerty or Grundy?

Ahhh! I thought I just found my perfect wheel and tire combo . I thought they made 16X8.5 wheels, but after searching they don't.. I like the wider lip, but i like the look of 16" wheels more then the 17" ones. I think they look better in the 240s wells.. Anyone wanna convince Rota to make me a 16X8.5 set? Lol. My search would finally be over.. Anyone know if a set is in the making? I will def. hold out on buying some if they are.

Sparks is that 904 white? If not what is it? Im trying to find the best white to paint my Z.