Cutlass372

Just tried what JSM suggested and that didn't work, the motor would only crank. Put the hot to the coil on and it started right up.. I tried connecting the spade connector and then bridging the + on the solenoid to the spade, it turned over a little but didnt continue to run (key turned to on). Gonna go trace some wires and see what else I can come up with.

Well I can just check them to see if they are working with the light tester. I was talking with my friend today about it and tried to think of what it was. The power from the batter goes directly to the solenoid, then from there goes to the fuseable link, the starter itself(the little wire from solenoid to starter), and the the black and yellow spade that goes to the coil. Correct? The fuseable link goes to the fuse box or the ignition? Once I pull the jumper from the coil to the battery the car will turn off. So I guess that means that Im not getting power to the coil which leads me to believe that the spade connector isn't working correctly. Im going to try and use my jumper and go from the coil to the spade on the solenoid to see if maybe its a faulty wire when I get home. So if im not getting power to the coil without the jumper then I would again think that its the solenoid. What are your thoughts?

I know that I have power going into the solenoid, but when I put the light tester on the other connections on the solenoid they dont light up (didnt have some to turn the key for the spade). Im in class right now, but when I get home im going to throw on my alternator and see if I can figure some more stuff out.

If there is no light on either side of the fuse link then its bad (or at the solenoid side=solenoid)? No voltage at the Spade connector then bad solenoid? Im pretty sure the fuses are ok, but I will check again just to be sure.

How would I know that it was bad? Or even replace it? Its just a connector on the end of a wire.. Im not sure that it's that, but im also not sure if it isnt.. Anyone else have some ideas? Trying to clear this up today.

^^ That was with all the wires connected. Fuse link, Black and yellow (Spade connector) and the jumper to the coil. Im pretty sure the spade connector goes to the coil though anyway? You think it might just be the solenoid? Seems like a pretty good idea to me..

Hmm, I'll have to try that tomorrow.. All of the wires are still on the coil, I just have another wire on there running to the + on the battery. Once I pull that wire from the + on the battery though, the car dies. I was just out messing with it and nothing happened without the hot on the coil. Yet, with that wire on, when I would turn the key to about midway from lock to off the starter would engage for a second and it started the car. When turned to on, the brake light on the dash would go out, and when turned to start it would bright back up a little and the starter would spin but not engage(could only get it to do that sometimes). I can only get the lights to work if I have the car running and have the key turned to start, anywhere else they do nothing. Someone help me clear up these gremlins I really wanna start to drive the car.

Hey guys, Picked up a 72 240z recently and when I hit the key I get absolutely nothing (no clicking, etc). I bought a new ignition switch and threw that in today but still, nothing and no noise. Right now I have a jumper going from the + on the battery and the + on the coil with a jumper on the solenoid that I tap on the + of the battery. With this hooked up the car starts fine. When I try the key with the coil jumper hooked up, some of the interior dash lights go on (brake light and gauges work) and I get some clicking from the key. When I turn the key to start with the jumpers, the volt meter moves and the dash lights die (battery needs to be charged). At this point im thinking its a bad solenoid. When I went to tighten one of the connections on the solenoid the front face where all of the connectors are plugged in spun with it. It was like the end of the solenoid (the black part) was detached from the case. I have power going to the solenoid, but my car does nothing... Anyone have any ideas on how to fix this?? I might just try and pick up a new solenoid when I go in to pick up my alternator tomorrow.

The car is a 72 240z. I figured out that the points were getting fried up because of the way I have it wired. I sanded the points down and it started right up. I am now trying to figure out how to make it start with the key. I have an ignition switch coming any day now so hopefully that will clear it up. The other day I was fixing my headlights and the only way I could get them to turn on was if I turned the lights on and the key to start.. I dont have my alternator hooked up, but this just seems strange to me. What would cause the lights to only go on with the key to start? The only two wires that I have disconnected are the one paddle connector from the solenoid to the harness and the connector from the starter to the harness (has a like clear/white connector). When I have those two hooked up and nothing to the coil, the car does nothing in any key position. I was told by the dealer that I purchased it from that it needed an ignition switch so i'm going to try that first, but what do you think could be causing this?

So I just hooked a spark plug to the coil and got a spark but not a very big one. I used my light tester to test the + and - on the coil and they both light up (- was dimmer). But when I put the tester into the end of the coil where it goes to the distibutor I got nothing. I also tested wires inside the distributor and they were hot too... When I tryed to start the car, still nothing just cranks away. What else should I check or how can I troubleshoot this problem?

Hey, I was messing with my car today trying to figure out my headlight issue(low beams dont work but I get power to the light connecters with the switch on) when the car stalled out and wouldn't start again... I have a wire running from the battery to the + on the coil because something is wrong with my ignition switch (or so I was told). I can smell fuel and pulled one of the plugs but dont see any spark. Its really wierd because I had the car running and it just cut out, died and wouldn't start again. The other day I had a battery box on the car with the coil wire hooked to the battery, as got out of the car I noticed the coil area smoking so I quick disconnected it. The box was on for a little while before I noticed it and it was very hot, yet started when I was ready to move it. This car is making me crazy because I just cant seem to narrow anything down and when i try, something else ends up not working... If anyone In the PA area would be willing to help me out one day straightening out my electical issues that would be awesome. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Elliot.

Anyone.. really trying to clear this stuff up.

Hey, I was messing with my car today trying to figure out my headlight issue(low beams dont work but I get power to the light connecters with the switch on) when the car stalled out and wouldn't start again... I have a wire running from the battery to the + on the coil because something is wrong with my ignition switch (or so I was told). I can smell fuel and pulled one of the plugs but dont see any spark. Its really wierd because I had the car running and it just cut out, died and wouldn't start again. The other day I had a battery box on the car with the coil wire hooked to the battery, as got out of the car I noticed the coil area smoking so I quick disconnected it. The box was on for a little while before I noticed it and it was very hot, yet started when I was ready to move it. This car is making me crazy because I just cant seem to narrow anything down and when i try, something else ends up not working... If anyone In the PA area would be willing to help me out one day straightening out my electical issues that would be awesome. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Elliot.

Looking for a bad ass suspension setup for my 240z. I'm on a pretty tight budget so im not really sure what to get. I really like the idea of coil-overs, but do you think its worth it over a spring and strut setup? I would probably run 225f/250r with the tokico illuminas if I was to go the spring and strut way. This car is going to be my new daily driver so it is going to see a lot of street driving, but I want the best handling setup that I can get away with. I plan on tracking the car when I get the time so it also needs to be competitive on the track. I also like the way that the coilovers can adjust ride height as the springs sometimes don't seem to go low enough. What would you say is the best way for me to go?

Thanks guys, do you still have your 240z Doug? I remember talking to you a while back about it but wasn't sure if a Z car was what I wanted at the time. My car is actually the same color as yours originally. I think when I get around to it though I will be painting it white. At this point I really just wanna get the car in driver condition and just have fun with it for a little while. The only things it really needs are for the brakes to be checked, An ignition switch, maybe the rust repairs (still driveable without), and for the carbs to be adjusted a little better (seems to stumble a little while idling, having really had a chance to run it out). I can't wait to get into it, but I really need to find a steady job first to get some money.

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/562590375hsIsRE Page 3-4 for pics from my house. Went to pick this car up yesterday in Garfield, NJ (about and hour and a half from me). Me and my dad loaded the car onto our car trailer with ease and made it home safe. Today I scrubbed and vaccuumed the inside of the car and took it around the block. It has a few rust issues, but nothing real crazy. The frame rails, battery area, floor, and rear area are all solid. The rockers and some of the hatch sill need some replacing though. The paint is trashed and it looks like it was painted with a paint brush. I wanna get some good suspension on the car, but i haven't decided what kind yet. Either tokico illuminas and some good lowering springs or a set of nice coilovers. I like the idea of coilovers because wheel fitment isn't really and issue where it is with the springs and struts. I wanna run something like a 17X9ish wheel. Overall I like the car, it just needs some tuning up and alittle patching. I wanna turn it into a track/daily driver car. What are you guys suggestions on going about doing this? What would make this car a killer on the street and track. As for the motor, at some point I would like to swap in a L28ET and upgrade that. What should I do first? lol.

How were the ground contols to install? Worth doing over something like the arizona Z car setup? Also How do you like the ride? Any body roll to speak of or do you wish you would have went with stiffer springs? What do you have for struts? Im going to be looking into doing some sort of suspension upgrade, but I just dont know what yet. Looking for opinions.

Well I would be doing any rust repairs with the help of my father. What kind of suspension does your car have sparky, I like the way it sits. I have found the hatch panel for $130 or I can make a patch. http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/full.asp?page=21 I found that just looking around today. For the rocker section, would that include the inner section though?? Thats more of what I need. It seems like more of the inner rocker is gone then the outer sections.

No one else?

Anyone else have some insite?

The other day I was told about this car by someone on a forum. I Went to check it out today and here it is. http://good-times.webshots.com/album/562590375hsIsRE Here are some pictures that I took from today. Talked them down to 1000 and put down a 50 dollar deposit on it. The car looks very solid other then the rockers and part of the hatch. The floors are good, battery area is good, frame rails are nice. Had a hard time getting it started and had to use some ether. The carbs need to probably be tuned and im sure a general tune up is needed as well. The car was trapped in by other cars so I couldn't try the tranny and all that. What do you guys think? Think its worth the price? The paint is trashed, but im ok with that. I pretty much just wanna get it into driving order and daily drive it. How much do you think fixing the rockers and that hatch section would cost? I would be doing all the work myself so all I would need is the price of the patch panels. Also the seats are torn, but the rest of the interior isn't that bad. Tach was bouncing all over the place so something was up with that. It needs an ignition switch too so thats on the list as well. I can't think of much more to include, but what do you guys think?

I didnt have a good chance to check for rust under the car while I was there because of snow on the ground. It seems like from driving by recently that all the visible bondo is on the drivers side as well as the flapping fender. I need to check the rest of the car for rust and bondo, but I just haven't had the chance because the guy never returns my phone calls... The passanger side looks in good shape, but im sure there is something lurking under the paint. My main concern would be the frame rails and the floors but again, haven't had the chance to check them. I suppose I will see what happens this week if he ever gets back to me...

Lol no one? Not one person can add some knowledge?

ey guys, I found a 2+2 around the corner from my house and went to check it out today. The Car is automatic so what actions would I have to take in switching that out? (2+2 uses different stuff then regular 260?). Also the front driver fender isnt attached at one of its mounting points so it wiggles alot when you pull on it. Paint is okish, some spots are chipped off and the rear quarter panel has bondo on it I believe. Interior seems mostly there and is in ok shape, could probably use a nice cleaning. The guy said he would take 300 for it which isn't a whole lot of money.. He said the car runs and drives but the carbs are an issue ( I think it has stock carbs). I would probably just swap on som SU's anyway and call it a day. This car would be my daily driver to and from school and to cruise around. You think its worth picking up or should I wait it out and look for a 2 seater. How much worse is the 2+2 at performing then the 2 seater, because im looking for a car that I could occasionally track. Overall im looking for a crazy handler that i can drive everyday and fix up along the way. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Elliot.

Started this last semester, but i was pretty much just messin around... It looks a little different now, but i dont have a scanner anymore so.. Fixed the front bumper, the rear window, and just cleaned it up alittle, I'll see if I can scan another of it more recently. Still needs more work though in the wheels and stuff. Edit: Bottom one is recent (just scanned it). Still needs lots more work, just not really a top priority.