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jaime240z

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Posts posted by jaime240z

  1. If I were you I would order the wheels and the flares. Once you have them in hand, you can mock them up on your car and decide how thick you will need your wheels adapters to be. This will allow you to decide where your wheels will end up in the wells/flares. I believe you can custom order wheel adapters to your specific thickness. Just my 2 cents.

  2. I was also on a mission to find a "list" of sizes and thread specs. I found it much easier to buy one of those little plastic bolt mearuing devices ( what the heck is the right name...?) Anyways, the sell them at hardware stores usually next to the nuts and bolts. The will easily measure bolt sizes and threads. And yes, I found most everything I need at ACE Hardware. Also, here is a link to some fancy stuff:

     

    http://stores.ebay.com/Restoration-Stainless

  3. Well since this thread has been revived, I guess Ill post a couple pics of the rotisserie I've been working on. I hope BradMan doesn't mind me copy his nice design. I did change the design of the base though. I will be adding HD casters and finishing the moving pieces tomorrow. And yes, I will be able to rotate the car 360 deg with this design. Another nice thing about using the platform bottle jacks is that the car itself doen't need to be sky high on jack stands in order to be mounted on the rotisserie. It's a bit more work, but I think it will be worth it in the end.

     

     

    Z_rot_2.JPG

     

     

     

    Z_rot_1.JPG

  4. Just a heads up in case you didn't notice. That thread shows 2 different diagrams. One for LHD and 1 for RHD. Just wanted to make sure you get the correct one. Be sure to show us your new fender mirrors too. I'm a big fan of them but I have always been afraid I wouldn't be able to see much from them.

  5. Hey no worries !:) I was initially planning on going with 275s in the rear. Actually I think Mike's setup looks GREAT and I was trying to get that same "look". Now I almost wish I had gone a bit wider in the rear, only to have more tire options. 275 and 285 will get the job done, but 315s would be NIIICE !!! If I would have seen how you can tuck 275s under the stock quarters earlier I would have thought about NOT flaring my car. Either way looks good IMO.

  6. When I talked to them they gave me the same numbers but that was for a STOCK suspension.

     

    Isk

     

    Ditto on that one. I agree, John at CCW was very knowlwdgable and helpfull over the phone. He took my order and had great customer service. But you want to make sure they are aware of any changes to your suspension and hubs as these items may change your specs from stock. 4.5 or 5" BS will not be enough in most modified Z with coilovers, actually I guess it will work but the wheel will be pulled out far away from the strut unnecessarily.

     

    I would suggest taking off one of your current wheel/tire combos. lay it flat on the ground with the wheel face down. If you have any spacers or adapters, remove them from the hub and place them into the wheel mounting suface, as if you were going to mount them on the car. Then measure your current backspacing by pacing a straight edge across the inner lip (not the bead) of the wheel. use another ruler or tape to measure the distance between the mounting surface on the wheel center and the straightedge on the wheel lip. This will give you your current BS and help you make a descision with what BS you will want. More BS will push the wheel in towards the strut and less BS will move the wheel out away from the strut.

  7. Congrats on the purchase! I'm sure you will be happy with the CCWs!!!

     

    On mine, I also have 17x9 front and 17x10.5 rear also. I would forget about offset and just try to figure out backspace as the 2 are related anyways and IMO BS is easier to figure out. Mine are 5.25" front BS and 5.5" rear BS. Keep in mind I am using the AZC 5 lug hubs and sectioned 240z struts. This fitment is perfect for my car. The way I figured mine out is by measuring the current BS on the wheels that where already on my car ( I also have a set of oem Ford Mustang wheels) I used these as reference. I imagine you have a set of wheels on you car now....just measure the BS on those wheels and go from there. The nice thing about the CCWs is you can have them made to order and delete the need to use spacers or adapters. Hope this helps.

  8. from your album page I belive you can simply right click on the picture, copy and paste in your new post. It's easier to open 2 browsers at the same time if you're going to cut/paste multiple pics.

     

    Nice swap BTW! Looks great :2thumbs: How much different are the LS2 mounts compared to the LS1?

  9. Well if you're going to do an LS1 swap you will have to use the JCI kit. JTR does not make LS1 mounts for the Z. JTR does sell LS1 headers and tranny mounts which will work with the JCI ls1 mounts. That answers that.

     

    As far as which year S30 to choose from. For me, this was decidied by local laws in CA. I needed something smog exempt. I would check around your state if you plan on making this car "street legal" with an engine swap. This may very well be your deciding factor too. Any year will make a good candidate for the swap as long as you have a solid car to begin with and you invest a little time and moey in proper reinforcemnt of the subframe, etc. Search around a little ....

     

    What should you expect to run into....? Rust, lots of down time, rust, unexpected costs. I see you are in AZ, you might be lucky as for as getting a rust free car, but still be sure to check out the car for any collision damage that is as easy to hide as rust can be. Take your time finding a car. The cleanerthe car is before you start the swap the nicer it can be in the end with minimal mods.

     

    And of course, welcome aboard. I'm sure you will find all the info you need here.

  10. AUX, last time I was there (I/O) it seems the guy is running things from his home, unless there was a shop somewhere else that he forgot to mention. I bet he has big items like roll bars shipped direct from the mfr. In that case I guess there is no escaping the shipping charges :confused2

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