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Posts posted by jaime240z
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Right on Davy! It was nice to meet you and your family. I'm really hoping this door panel project goes well. Only "bad" part is I will need to buy new component speakers to fit the panel. Fortunately I already have a set picked out!!!
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I like your old Centerlines, but what do I know
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Jaime' date=' thanks for donating the panels and we'll meet up at my place for Thursday.
Davy[/quote']
Hay Davy, don't mention it. I'm glad I could help out. See you in a while.
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Have you tried ebay? i saw some mounts on there recently. Not sure if the seller ships intl. but it's worth a shot. Otherwise, get some part numbers and I'll look around for new parts.
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Don't move it on the rotisserrie (sp?) You may damage the mounting points if the car is rolling down the road while bolted to the rotisserrie. I think you can easily make a wooden craddle using 2x4, 4x4, and casters. I think it would be safer to move a shell while the frame rails/body is resting on a craddle and easily moved on casters. I was trying to find a picture of one but I can't at the moment. Seems like a safer alternative to me.
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TIM !! Don't sell it, just cut it already, It will bring tears to your eyes everytime you see someone else's hands all over that one-off rear end. You'll end up paying double trying to buy it back.
If not I'm buying it and I WILL put some flairs on it !!!!!!
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Looks good! Now get to rubbing!!!!
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DAVYZ, I have my oem '72 interior door panels sitting here, both L and R. I am willing to sacrafice. I'll PM you my contact info.
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The one in your picture is for earlier Zs with the integrated turn signals. You can get that style for your 280z without the holes for the lights. Or you can get the 240 style lip but it will take a little work to swap the lights and a 240 front bumper. The choice is yours.
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Well it's not the cheapest route, but you can still get NEW OEM steel fenders from your local nissan dealer. Or call courtesy and order them. Guaranteed perfect fit!
They ain't cheap though ~ $250/each
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Yeah ditto on the CF ZG flares. I got a set from MSA and I really wish I had got the fiberglass ones and painted them. I will probably end up painting my CF ZGs now.... They fit nice but not the best finish on the weave pattern. The one good thing I've heard for the CF flares is that they are a bit more frlexable or shapeable than the fiberglass ones. The CFs were real easy to fit and install, however I don't have any first hand experience with the glass ones.
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Hey Davy, since you're communicating with th guy making the panels maybe you can realy some questions...?
I'm just curious about provisions for the window crank and the interior door handle? Are these still going to be functional? I didn't notice them existing in the pic of the 510 panels? The window crank is not a big deal, but I will definitly need the handle. Thanks.
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Thanks for getting this organized, Davy.
And ditto what MatMan said for me too!
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I haven't completed my install yet but I would imagine the design of your front diff mount would have alot to do with what happened...? Do you have a pic of your front diff mount?
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long side of the bushing goes toward the rear.
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Hey Davy, is this the same guy from stricktly 510? If so I'm in for a set for a 240z. His 510 panels look really clean and it would be so sweet to have a real home for fron speakers! How soon can I order.
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Thanks Mark!!!
Z-Gad excellent work, thanks for the link !!!!
Man I love this site
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Thanks for the replies. Sounds easy enough. The hardest part will be forking out the $150 for a new panel.
For you guys who spot welded, did you drill small holes in the new panel or just spot weld at the perimiter? Thanks.
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Funny I was just out in the garage trying this very thing. I have the "newer" JTR rad mounts and a Griffin 24x19 rad. And the answer is NO! I think you could with the "older" JTR rad mount which was just the lower mount. The newer JTR mounts are more narrow. The lower mount might be usable but will need to me modified a bit. The newer top mount which mounts in the upper bolt holes will not work. The tanks on the Griffin rad are too big. I learned this the hard way. If you get the newer JTR mounts they should be used with their recommended radiator.
Making mounts for your Griffin won't be very hard at all. I really like the way JTR designed the mounts to be used with the stock mounting locations. Very smart. I will be making my own and try to use that design. Hope this helps.
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Now I know why these pieces are being reproduced for early Z cars. I removed the panel around the hatch area latch and found alot of rust under there.
Has anyone alse bought one of the repair panels from MSA or zedfindings?
Just curious how they are welded in? My old one is already removed and I plan on sandblasting the area, repairing any rust damage and using por-15.
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OMG that is hilarious!!!! The Q&A at the bottom is so funny!!!!
How did you find that anyways.....?
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Thanks for the help guys. I think I got it, and you're right it was simple once I figured it out. There is a diagram of the belt routing on my truck too, which was nice. I did goof and turned the wrong bolt on the tensioner so now I will need to fix that in the morning. Other than that it's a done deal! THANKS!
Almost lost my Z !!!
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
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I have had this same nightmare in the back of my mind. There are some options out there for us guys using "racing" brakes on our cars. I was planning on buying some nice aluminum wheel chocks or even some plain black rubber chocks on ebay. They're relatively cheap.
Here is another alternative worth thinking about:
http://www.precisionbrakescompany.com/index.html
A new HiPo caliper that can be controlled by a hand brake cable and will still work with out AZC 12.2" vented rotors. They're not cheap, but then again lawsuits and insurance rates aren't either.
I'm happy to hear no one was hurt or property damaged. This incident made me want to do something about about this. I'm calling precision brakes!
jaime