mtcookson

Yup, you have it. Basically all I'm doing is essentially cutting the a/r of the turbine in half so to speak. When the valve is closed, its like running a small turbine housing and when open like running a larger turbine housing. Yeah, I noticed in some of the pictures I still had a bit of the flange in the way of the flow so I'm going to get that evened out next time I work on it. If that is what he used... that definitely seems to be overkill. At the moment I'm just using regular ol' mild steel. 1/8" thick for the valve and valve walls, 3/8" thick flanges. I was thinking of using 1/2" thick flanges but figured not only would that be slightly overkill but a total of 1.5" thickness for flanges alone would really start to make fitting it tight. If it works out pretty well, I'll probably consider using 316 or, even better yet, 321 stainless steel for the whole assembly so it would last as long as possible... but that will definitely be down the road if it does work. If I do end up doing that though, I'll redesign it a bit. I want the walls to curve and match the flanges instead of being square and modifying the flanges to match. Since I would be doing the walls like that, the valve itself will have to be curved to match the walls, which at the moment I don't really have the equipment to do too well... it would probably end up being pretty crooked. At the moment, I'm designing it almost identically to an internal wastegate. On both sides of the valve, where the shaft is sticking out, I'll have a little "arm" for a wastegate actuator to attach to, exactly like the internal gate "flapper". I'm doing both sides so that I can actually test out which side of the turbo spools best, if either is even better than the other at all. The way I designed it, I just have to flip the valve over and if there isn't enough clearance on one side then I just move the actuator to the other side. The actuator itself will just be a simple internal gate actuator however I'm going to modify it (hopefully) to accept vacuum on the other side, like most newer external gates. This way, it'll be constantly closed (quick spool) so that when I get to my set boost limit the valve will open. While I'm just cruising around the vacuum will also open the valve allowing decreased back pressure over the valve being closed. Very simple setup. I can even control it with a boost controller, which I'll likely do, to keep it closed tight for as long as possible for the quickest possible spooling, because as most know with a wastegate actuator like that it'll slowly start to open without anything to control the boost signal to it. Another beauty of this setup is I don't have to run a very high pressure spring, no matter what boost I set it at, unlike most wastegates. No matter how much pressure is going through the exhaust, it'll stay closed until the actuator opens it, unlike a wastegate. This will make controlling the spooling very easy with a boost controller. Just use, say, a 7 pound actuator and I could have it open the valve at 20 psi for instance with no chance of leakage. Down the road I'd like to try out an electronic actuator with either an rpm signal or a boost signal, boost signal likely being the more accurate for what I'm doing. Really though... all that will do is just cut down on the mess. The above mechanical method should really have equal control, or even more control with a boost controller, compared to using an electric actuator. Granted the electric actuator would likely be a little quicker to get the valve open and shut, I just don't really see it as absolutely necessary at the moment, unless my above idea doesn't work out as well I'm planning. I haven't had a chance to work on it since I originally posted about it but I should be able to get out there tomorrow night and I will definitely be able to work on it Sunday so I'll definitely have more for you guys this weekend. Sadly the Maxima won't be running by this weekend to test it out, but at the very least the valve should be done by then.

Alright... so I've had this idea of making a valve that would help a twin scroll turbine spool faster. Some of you guys might have seen it but one guy made one using a butterfly valve design and it spooled 700 rpm faster (http://www.speedshopthagard.com/projects/280Z_Turbo/index.html) but I wanted something that would flow much better than that, so I set out to make a sort of swing valve design. Mine definitely isn't near as compact as the one above but it should flow quite a bit better, which should hopefully make spooling even faster. The valve really just makes the turbine a very low cost variable area turbine. Here's the buildup process of what I have so far, let me know what you think. Here's the start of it (my work table is a bit of a mess... I need to quit working on multiple cars at once ): http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/QSV/P1020113.JPG http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/QSV/P1020114.JPG http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/QSV/P1020115.JPG http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/QSV/P1020116.JPG I almost have it finished but messed up a few things (fixable) so I'm probably going to finish it tomorrow, but here is the current: Welds are decent. I didn't want to get too close to the side so that it didn't weld the pieces together. http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/QSV/P1020155.JPG Took the welds down a bit to hopefully assist in making it flow a bit smoother (pictures a little blurry) http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/QSV/P1020156.JPG http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/QSV/P1020157.JPG Got the other side tacked on http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/QSV/P1020159.JPG http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/QSV/P1020160.JPG Here I basically matched one side of the flange to the valve assembly to try keeping flow decent and turbulence down. Its not the straightest match but should work pretty good. http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/QSV/P1020161.JPG http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/QSV/P1020165.JPG http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/QSV/P1020166.JPG I hit two corners but it shouldn't be too bad. Since I'm not really sure if this will work or not I'm not working too hard to make it absolutely perfect. http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/QSV/P1020171.JPG http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/QSV/P1020172.JPG http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/QSV/P1020174.JPG Here's what it'll basically look like: http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/QSV/P1020175.JPG http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/QSV/P1020176.JPG http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/QSV/P1020178.JPG The valve open for top end flow http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/QSV/P1020182.JPG Closed for faster spooling. I still need to add a separator at the top and bottom to keep both passages split, but this is basically what it'll look like. http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/QSV/P1020181.JPG

The Frontier s/c is a little on the small side though. As long as your aren't looking for a ton of power it would work but otherwise you would need something bigger.

ahh, ok. i didn't catch that. sorry about that.

Here on HybridZ they seperate the Nissan I6 forums by splitting it to L6 and RB (click on the "6 Cylinder Z Forums" link and you'll see). I'm sure that's just what he's talking about.

I'll keep a list of everyone interested and once I hear more on them I'll give the list to the guys who are hopefully going to make them.

Just run crazy big tires... like... dually MT's or something.

Euro cams have a slight increase in duration for a 10 hp increase in the VG30ET. I believe its slightly less N/A.

When launching you do want some squat as squat is simply the transfer of weight to the rear (this is why front wheel drive cars are terrible at launching). If your car squats pretty hard and the camber changes quite a bit you're not getting a good tire patch on the ground, its riding on the tire closer to the edge so a lot less traction. What's weird is I would think a trailer arm setup like that would make way less camber changes than an a-arm setup, but I guess they're setting the angles up differently than what I'm thinking.

Are you sure about that? I know the manual trannies are the same but the I thought there was a difference in the auto trannies... Either way though, the stock auto trannies always tend to be weak but they can be easily built up to handle power. Just have to drop some money into it at a performance tranny shop and you'll be set. A definite good upgrade would be a tranny cooler. The stock ones never seem to suffice.

That's with some wheel spin off of the line too. That was pretty good.

I know going from the VG30E and VE30DE, the VQ30DE is at least 100 lbs lighter. The VG30DETT is even heavier than the VG30E so the VQ would be a lot lighter than the VG-DE. Stock the VQ35 is an open deck block so they have to add those liners to strengthen it. Once you do that they are very strong. The VG's are closed deck blocks so you don't have to worry about that. The open deck crap is simply due to more ridiculous emissions rules.

You can't use a VG30DE flywheel as they are 8 bolt versus the VG30E(T)'s 6 bolt. The later Z31 Turbos used a 250 mm clutch/flywheel setup while the rest used a 240 mm (not sure about the trucks though). The N/A Z32 uses a 240 mm setup while the TT uses a 250 mm. On the TT bell housing, the inside of it is slightly large to accept the 250 mm clutch setup. The starter mounting surface is also slightly different for the start to engage properly. Other than that, the N/A and TT tranny are identical internally. I believe some people have just shaved a few spots on the N/A bell housing and used a spacer for the TT clutch setup, but I'm not 100% sure.

510... hell yes. I want one sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo bad.

Most of the Nissan DOHC V6's I've seen use 8 head bolts whereas the VG30E(T) has 13... that would be difficult to fix alone but then you have the oil and water galleries. The only way to get a DOHC VG is to get a DOHC VG. VG30DE, VG30DET, VG30DETT, or you can get the compact version used in the 92-94 Maxima SE called the VE30DE. Its almost literally identical to the VG30DE internally, the heads are just much more compact. I uses the same rods and similar, if not the same pistons. The crank is also a forged unit with an 8 bolt output for the flywheel. I would definitely like to see what one of those would do with some boost... there have been some Maxima guys that have boosted their VE's but the fwd tranny really limits potential. The only downside to them is they had VTC issues but I believe the issues occurred due to improper maintenance.

There's possibly one in the works right now. If all goes through it'll actually be much thinner and, I believe, made of steel due to it being thinner. It'll be setup as a sale deal, I don't believe they are going to release any cad drawings of it but it'll definitely be a nice option out there for the swaps. As for this plate the threads are tapped right into the aluminum from the looks of it. I believe that is why its so thick but that's no different than the bolts in the tranny and the engine. I don't see there be any issues with this unless someone just carelessly cross threads it. The steel plate will probably give more peace of mind for most people though. I'll let you guys know if all of that goes through.

I'm actually using that 2nd gen Maxima manifold on my 3rd gen and will likely be going with MGP's manifold down the road. It looks pretty good.

The page is under construction at the moment but here's the link: http://www.theexperience.com/recordrun.htm Here's a stock internal 10.9 second 350Z as well: http://videos.streetfire.net/search/fastest+350z/0/dd6e33e6-37f0-4906-8bc0-ba1120db7c47.htm The VQ series engines are not weak, they are actually quite incredible. They have been using a twin turbo VQ series engine in place of the RB26 in newer Skyline race cars and have been doing very well. Basically, it can be boosted and it can make some incredible power. On top of that it is very light weight and compact making it even better than the VG and RB imo.

Stock that would be true... it can be designed to handle boost like any other engine out there. The VQ35 does power the fastest Nissan in the world by the way...

Actually, I would go here for all of the VG info you could ever dream of having: http://www.redz31.com/forum

If repairing that engine take much money I would just look at getting another VG. There are so many out there in decent shape that you can pick one up in good condition for very cheap. It sounds like you're getting everything planned out pretty well though. Good luck with everything!

On the pistons, as long as there aren't any gouges in the cylinder walls it should run pretty decent. Being a temporary daily driver, it should be fine. I actually have a VG30ET that looked similar but it was in even worse shape having 90 psi compression in four cylinders and 50 psi in two. Some of the pistons were actually missing metal on the edges. It was bad. Here's a picture of one of them, on the right side. http://www.machzracing.com/pictures/vginternals6.jpg That one is actually one of the better looking ones. The engine was absolutely abused (I think major detonation and such).

Parts Dinosaur is awesome. I've bought the head gasket kit from him twice, one for my boosted Maxima and one for my turbo Z31. First time I got them for my Maxima one of the head gaskets got damaged in shipping so I emailed him and he sent me out a good head gasket right away. Definitely a good seller. I was worried about quality of the kit but the head gaskets are just like stock and they've held up just fine on my Maxima (replaced all of the upper gaskets). I haven't driven the Z much but I'm sure that one will hold up just the same.

How much did that one cost you?

In my Maxima (with a VG30ET) I've got up to 29.5 mpg on the highway with a bad intake, bad exhaust, and a terrible tune and as low as about 14 mpg in town. Its fwd though so I'm sure that makes a good bit of difference.