ottoauto

I'm going to try to maintain the original lines for one dash. The other dash would be the same lines probably with small speaker holes or something... I'm still kind of thinking about it. any input or ideas would certainly be considered at this point. Im going to try to do a few sketches of what it might look like.

At the begining of this summer I'm going to be looking into designing a fiberglass dash mold to produce some dashes. I'm posting this to see if people would be interested in a dash ordered in your own custom color and what people would be willing to pay. A perfect original dash runs about at about $500. It would be a screw in replacement, with vent holes and the same heater and speaker mounts (you will have to use the old brackets) and one variation of the dash should have speaker holes (anyone want to suggest a speaker size). PLEASE post your highest price for a good dash designed and made by a skilled fiberglass worker, and if your interested in getting one or seeing pictures of the first one at the beginning of the summer let me know and I will take your contact name down.

i have installed a 5-speed. i've been working out certain problems (first had the wrong collar, then my pedal was too worn to work correctly with the 5-speed, and now....). My speedmoeter isn't working. the transmission had the same colored gear as my 4-speed (this seems like it has been switched) and the screw that holds it was loose (like it may have been chenged). As far as im aware i have a short ratio 5-speed out of an early 80's zx, and still have an r180 diff, but i would like to switch it out. Anyway, i put the transmission in and i have no reading on my speedo in my 1972 240z. Im wondering if i should have a different colored gear, or if i should maybe be woring about internal transmission gears?

Thanks for the advice Careless. ill try that out.

Thanks MadKaw. Ill drill it and respond with results.

I have considered both of these things... believe me. i first installed the transmission with the wrong collar and it was a pain in the ass. second, i have already removed the pedal and inspected both the pin and the pedal. the pedal hole looked elongated and worn, and the pin appeared to be just fine.

I've searched for other posts on this and haven't found anything, maybe because im the only idiot who hasn't fixed this on a z yet. I spoke to oliver at z specialties when i was having problems shifting my transmission.once my 5-speed was in. it didn't seem to completely disengage when shifting, and he pointed me towards my clutch pedal which is worn out and needs to be fixed. the hole for the pin where the clutch master rod attatches to the pedal is worn and elongated. I would like to take it to oliver and let him do it to help his business considering he pointed me right towards the problem but i have a welder and a drill press and im pretty far away from him. im wondering if this is a really rough science or if the hole must be exact. I'm willing to take pictures of it if anyone is interested but im assuming that its something everyone has delt with. Thanks

Oh, there is actually no backfireing. runs really well. there was a small vacuum leak before but it's now running REALLY well. the only problem is that the fuel isn't burning up terribly well or clean. and there is some blue smoke, i probably really just need to take my head and have it rebuilt soon. but then im going to want to put bigger valves and a cam in.... and that costs more than i have. i'll start saving......

I have done my timing. all of the stuff i have put into it was stuff i wanted to do. the only problem i've run into was that fuel isn't buring after it speeds up rapidly. trust my i don't want to put any more money than i have to into this. so far i put elect fan on, removed A/C, put an electric fuel pump on, plated the mechanical pump, put my 4 barrel, and threw a glass pack on, but i know where there is a good set of headers that i will put on once i talk to a guy about bending my exhaust. now i would like to get it running as good as i can (without pulling or rebuilding) before i start puting some money into my interior, suspension, and drivetrain. and i have cheap access to parts

The only problem im still having is that after rapid acceleration, unburnt fuel dumps out my exhaust. do i need to improve my ignition system. i have 280zx dist, new cap, rotor, wires, plugs, and will have my crane hi6 ignition in shortly. any known fix for this problem?

I got it running. runs good. feels a little held back but im going to check the gauge of my wire shortly. ill let everyone know how my crane ignition works out.

I got a rebuilt distributor through work and istalled it with a new crane ignition unit. I couldn't get it to run with the crane ignition unit so i took those out just so i could see that it would run with the distributor. the best i got was a few light fires. i played with the timing a little and it didn't fire anymore. i was using the 240z dist. plate because the dist didn't come with one and i did have to modify and kind cut out a place for the bolt. are the plates that different? any ideas? Original setup; Stock dist (73 240z), stock wiring and all, ran perfect. Drilled dist. plate ran really quite well. Aftermarket; 1980 elect. dist. crane coil (aftermarket ooooo ideas, maybe only setup for the crane ignition setup), simply elect ignition wiring. trying to make my hi6 crane ignition work. ideas

i just installed a holley 4 barrel with a arizona z intake. It's backfiring. It did the same thing with the su's. I've replaced rotor, wires, plugs, points, condensor, resistor, and played with the timing a little. I'm using a brand new holley 390cfm carb. The plugs indicate that it's running lean, but i was having the same problem with the su's so im pushed to think that this is an ignition or timing problem. I also just ordered a distributor off of a late 70's 280 with electronic ignition and i want to use this but i first want to figure out why it's backfiring. If it could be the vacuum advance then replacing the old distributor should fix this. Could any one maybe just give me a starting point. im pretty sure there aren't any vacuum leaks, but the brake vacuum lines do look a little worn.

Man, im havin the same problem. i was just kinda messing with it. It was running best with full advance but still backfireing under a load and idling bad (that might be somethin else). what ended up solving your problem?

Hey. im just wondering if anyone knows the actual hood clearence height with the 4 barrel holler. considering scoop and filter options.

Yeah. well it's not my problem anymore. a friend just got it from me for about the same price i got it for. he can deal with the problems now. I know where there is another 280zx for about 300 with a newer engine and a 5-speed i can pull and put in my 240z. and rust isn't quite as bad... im gunna go check that one out.

thanks. i appreciate it. i know the mechanics on most z cars but i haven't really done anything with the interior of em. no full restores or anything.

I just picked up a 280zx for 150 bucks. I work at NAPA and a guy i know came in and said i could have it for 150 bucks so i said sure. it's an 82 280zx 2+2 with a cracked windsheild, cracked t-tops, auto tranny and leaks and rust, mold. it needs help, but so do i. I've spent the last couple days climbing in and out of it too move it but i can't really figure out how to get the door open. locked and handles don't do anything, and i can't get the door panel off when it's closed..... any ideas? anyone run into this problem?

Ok. I have a stock 240z with a l24 engine and e88 heads. I just talked to a guy and im getting a solid running 280z engine and tranny. Im curious as to how i might be able to swap some of the engine parts to make a solid comfortably running engine that will really pull. Im planning on using the l28 block with a 4 barrel carb, msd ignition, msd electronic ignition, and a earlier head such as my e88. I''m wondering if the head would interfere with l28 flatop heads. I also know that i could use the l24 rods, but i think that is going to put my comrpession way too high for what my plans are. I'm just wondering if anyone has any insight or recommondations for me. tell me what direction to go and ill probably follow the advice.

Does anyone know wether the 240z flywheel will work just fine with a 280z clutch, and if that will yeild any benefeits, and if its worth doing when i swap my tranny out.

Well... i bought this stuff, from you. i waven't quite finished all of it, our damn weather here sucks ass. hopefully i can finish everything up soon, but i might be getting a 280z soon, so im kinda debating whether i wait for that and do an engine swap with the 5-speed, or i just finish this now. gimme that muffler if you still have it.

I would be very interested in seeing the dyno test numbers when you do that. im doing the 4bbl swap right now, just need to order my carb. im also waiting on my electronic ignition and multi spark to show up. so you say to use the 9x2 filter, i ordered a bigger one, but that is good to know, i was not quite sure about what to use.

If i put a 390cfm holley carb on my 240z, will i need a new needle and seat or anything to make it run right? what kind of adjustments are recommended. i am also curious about recommended mileage for a timing chain replacement? recommended cams for mostly street use but that will give me a little git up'n go

Fortunately i beleive the car is from that period, but i didn't know that and im glad to hear it. does this require modification to the tranny mounts? if you can't tell this is my first z and i've never done this one before.

When installing am i required to buy the ignition module separately? i work at NAPA and can get them cheap so what is a recommended module to use? system hasn't quite showed up yet but i want put it in just as soon as it shows up. enlighten me