dv82xl

So, pardon my complete stupidity. On Tire Rack's web site, it says that those size tires are for a 6 inch rim. Your's are 10. So my questions are is that safe? and what about the warranty? If there is not safety or warranty issues - why 'stretch' the tire? Why not get a tire that was built for that size wheel? I'm confused.

the worst form of pride is not being able to admit mistakes my personal favorite is setting my car on fire with my first harness - relay anybody? Oh that's what a fuse is for! my momma taught me "people that don't make mistakes - don't know s**t!" I appreciate all the input if I knew it all - I'd be very bored indeed & boring too! next agenda item - wheels & tires - I need more rubber on the road lots of pics in here but many are shy on details - maybe I need to look closer

So, the answer is......already in here. As I suspected. I re read every post in here over the past couple of days. Then I dismantled the entire brake system today and went over everything piece by piece. And something showed up. Those Toyota calipers were upside down. I do not know how I ever got them to work in the past. I've had them upside down since I bought them years ago. I learned something else about the MC too. The first part of travel applies pressure to the front brakes. The back end applies pressure to the rears. The rears were never a problem - the proof of that was a very hard pedal mid way through the travel. Once I reversed the calipers and re bled the fronts - bingo. The pedal is very high now and the fronts grab nicely. I'm now conflicted with feeling happy and stupid at the same time.

The reaction disk thing - ya - I'll look for that - and I will really be miffed if that's the case - the MC and booster are both brand new. The valve I removed is, well all of them - there was a PDV & a distribution block - I removed all the brake lines - I actually took the car completely apart. I've done so many times in the past - and I've successfully put the car back on the road many times - but not this time! it's dark outside now so I can't see anything - I'll have a go at removing the master cylinder and booster - again - on Thursday - if it doesn't rain the real kicker is this - with all the talk on here about bigger disks here and brake upgrades there - I've replaced the entire drive train, built and installed my own wiring harness - I've rebuilt the entire car - even mounted my tires by hand - in my drive way - what the heck am I doing trying to sort out what seems to be a common brake system problem - with original equipment - on a car - that has no more original equipment in it? is there anyone out there that has - dare I say it - eliminated the booster and replaced the tiny MC? I mean - without anyone sending me an algebra lesson - I do not see the difference between the stock 7/8 and 15/16 bore of the 280zx MC - what I do see are MC's out there with 1.25 bores and huge fluid volumes - now that's a difference! I'm no sissy - I can handle the loss of power brakes - I don't have power steering right? I think I'm gonna go primitive and I'm just gonna buy the largest volume MC out there and bolt it in without the booster! Oh, ya I might have to fabricate something - oh my - as if that never happened! I mean - can you tell I'm frustrated? Really - I can't believe that people in here are spending multiple tens of thousands on their cars and keep the original brake system with it's goofy distribution blocks, PDV's and whimpy mc's? That just makes no sense to me. But then again....opinions vary Anyhow - I really appreciate the information here and any responses.

Ok. first pardon me if THE answer is already here and I missed it - point me to it and I'll be eternally grateful and on my way. I have a 73 240z with a 400sb just for the fun of it. However - it's on blocks - no brakes! New Brake Booster. New Master Cylinder. Stock Rear Drums with new calipers. Stock Front Disc with new Toyota 4x4 calipers. I removed the pressure differential valve brcause I have a distinct feeling it will give me a problem I don't need. I have a proportioning valve. I bench bled the master. I have pressure fed more than a gallon of brake fluid to each corner starting with the farthest. I am convinced that there is no air in the system. The front brakes do not work - at all. The rears are not a problem they lock up. I've tried adjusting the proportioning valve all the way in each direction. No front brakes. Engine on. engine off - no front brakes. I've removed the front pads and checked that all 8 calipers move. Also, the brake pedal will not go to the floor stop, only 1/2 way and then - a hard stop at mid pedal travel. I've spent days and days on this. Actually considering scrapping the car. Shouldn't the pedal go all the way to the floor? Could it be that the booster and or master are defective? Do I need a master cylinder with a bigger volume?

same thing happend to me. check the drive shaft to diff bolts and diff cross member and the half shaft bolts! then get out the red loctite! after replacing the diff cross member and cabling it!

bowtieoverdrives has everything you'll need - no computer required - they can explain it - I built & installed the 700r4 myself - got the DVD - VERY helpful - don't forget the locking converter! and when you connect the cable to the carb - set it snug but not tight! - otherwise the tranny will not shift out of first

I'm looking for plans for an Engine Test Stand - "for Dummies"

try these people http://www.advanceadapters.com/

I have the JTR kit and book. Zero problems with the kit. Book a real time saver. Installed a 400sbc & 700r4 car weighs 2520 lbs - did not know of any other kit. p.s. use thread lock on all the drive line bolts!

Dude, I have the same engine. My 240 weighs 2520 lbs. That is next to nothing. The car just flys. Unless you're really retentaive about the whole thing, you'll have plenty of HP. I've never had it on the track cause "it's overpowered". I suppose the best advice is get it on a chassis dyno once it's insatalled. But again - it's a hugh difference between a 2.4Lx 6 to a 6.6liter v8! Personally, I do not care how much hp I put out. I see peoples reactions on the street! That's enough for me. Maybe I'm just easily impressed. Drop in the 400 and ENJOY!

First day with the V8 - forgot to Loctite the drive shaft to pinion bolts! WOW - I thought the car was disintegrating! The vibrations were scary. Lucky I was going about 30mph and I stopped immediately before the drive shaft came completely off! And while I was re checking everything - I noticed I had dropped BOTH engine mount bolts - go figure! the vibrations just wiggled the suckers right out! Loctite and ARP are my friends!

mine is especially SCARY - and the chicks hate it - cause it's loud and there's no carpet and no cd player - and the seats are concrete - and the belts are restrictive - so I don't have to bring them along! I can go where I want and I don't hear "can we go now?" All I hear is the 400 sbc roaring along ! I call that my little piece of heaven!

after playing around with TONS of l6 engines I put in a 400SBC I have tons of l6 engine parts - even a 'race prepped' short block you want it?

hum...I had tripple 48 DCOE on my L24 too MUCH carb - you want em?

$6500 in the Engine + $1000 in the trans + 500 in JTR parts + 500 in nuts,bolts,wire,primer + 500 in non metric sockets & wrenches! + my two years = the ability to hold one's head high - and go REALLY fast! PRICELESS

I'd check the fuel pressure - fuel filter - also - have you considered vapor lock - and - how's the engine bay heat? good luck and you'll really enjoy the 700R4 - way better than a TH350!