jasper

Check valve lash. Or broken valve spring, or wiped cam lobe. Could be backfiring into intake manifold.

Get one of these, you won't be sorry. https://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-4110-UEGO-Ratio-Gauge/dp/B00N3VGPYS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491339889&sr=8-1&keywords=aem+wideband

Go to a lawn mower/professional lawn equipment sales/repair shop. They have various diameter clear fuel hose on spools for sale.

Does your electric pump look similar to this one?? If so, There is a replaceable fuel filter built in.

#28 in diagram. VERY EASY to check/clean.

FYI, if you haven't checked.. SU's have filters in the Banjo fittings at each carb. Screens if I remember correctly.

Check for fuel pressure loss. Also try driving with fuel cap loose, may be improperly vented tank.

Very simple. The Zx shift lever has different bends than your stock Z. Use the shift lever from a 74 and up 4spd. The distance below the pivot is different, but does not matter. It works. This is how we solved the exact same problem you have, after a lot of research. It is that simple.

What year and model is the Z? Is this a 4 spd, or 5spd. If the trans came from a ZX, the shift lever is your problem, and can be changed. Been there, done that.

Pics can be misleading, but it looks like the shift lever is too far forward. Wrong shift lever? installed backwards. Again..could be the angle of the pic.

Thanks for the input guys.... This is not my first Rodeo. I'm 57 years old, and have been ASE certified since the early 80's. 45+ years experience, and counting. Of course I will prime the system, and confirm oil flow. I know that engine oils have have changed DRASTICALLY in the last 35 years. 5, 10, and 15k oil change intervals are common. 300k on today's engines are common. I know it's all about the oil. I believe there is probably a better choice of oil to use, than what is currently sitting in the 35 year old oil pan. The experience I do lack, is in oil choices for an unusual situation, such as this. I'm hoping some of you guys know more than I do, and have practical experience. I'm leaning towards the Brad Penn. Is a straight 30 weight suggested? I've started to research your recommendations. I'm not done. Again, thanks for all your help.

The story: At least 5 years ago, I bought a 1981 280zx engine and 5spd transmission. Complete with all accessories , harness, computer etc. I was told the car was driven off the dealer's lot, and rear ended. He somehow bought the drivetrain. It was sitting under his work bench in Long Island, N.Y., till I bought it, for $475.00 When I saw the factory blue paint on the oil filter, I was starting to believe. When I found the egr tube still shiny, with the blue over spray, I was convinced. If you look at the pics, you can see he was telling the truth. Looks like the day it was born. Since the oil is 35 years old, as is the filter, I would think there would be a better oil choice today. The question?? What oil type/viscosity/etc. would be a good choice for start up, and break in of a "NEW" 35 year old engine? PS. The EFI was removed, and carb'd, for ease of getting this new build on the road. Will probably get it's EFI back, sometime down the road. Thanks for your input.

Essentially all new cars, are a rolling network of computers. With MATCHING (engine, trans, sensors,etc) hardware. Software updates are common, and Vin specific. Swapping components/modifications is now a difficult, if not impossible task for the DIY crowd. It is an uphill battle you are unlikely to win. Play with the old stuff, leave the new stuff alone, unless you buy engineered for the application items, have deep pockets, lots of time, etc,etc,etc........ Good Luck.

My 260Z has an agreed of roughly 20k+. Agreed is the only way to go, for future reference. If you don't get a fair offer, lawyer up. But it will cost you roughly 1/3 of settlement. Plenty of high comps out there.

Push in. Pressure difference left to right. Kinked hard line/ bad flex line/restricted line/ restricted union, contaminant, etc.......