pat1
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Posts posted by pat1
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If your in need of a rear sump oil pan I'll be happy to build you one. Just let me know.
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I finally made time to get this car to my tuner today and get this thing tuned. I'm running Stinger 4424 EMS. The tuner was able to get 446HP @17psi spinning the tires on the dyno. Even with my brother and I setting on the rear of the car the tire were lighting up. I'm very pleased to say the least. That's around 516hp at the flywheel. It's on a very conservative tune.
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driftmotion has them.
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No just get the motor and trans mounted to your mounts and take the measurement from the end of the tail shaft to the diff flange and tell your driveshaft shop the measurement. They do this all the time. It's not a big deal. No special tools just a tape measure.
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The measurement will be different depending on how you do your motor mounts. My measurements are 28 inches from tailshaft to diff flange. I took that measurement to the driveshaft shop and they made mine for 215.00 with a new Toyota yoke.
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Some of it will work. The red top is a little bit different.
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Come to Caffeine and Octane the first Sunday of each month. There are about 10-15 Zs that show up each month. http://www.caffeineandoctane.com/index.php/directions/
Everytime I go there is 10-15 late model Z's and maybe 1-3 datsuns. Tons of nice cars but very far away from being a Z get together.
I'm in Woodstock. If there is a Z meet let me know. I'll be there
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It will fit, I've seen it. The body of the trans isn't much different. The only difference is the bottom of the trans where the pan is on the auto.
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You covered your bases but you need to find out of you have spark. Pull one of your coil packs and either turn the motor over with the starter or pull the cas and twist it. Put a spark plug into the coil and ground it out and then watch for the spark, The ecu send a ground signal to the igniter (depending if you have a s1 or s2 rb25)> Do you have a s1 or s2? does it have a igniter? If not you have a s2. The igniter is in each of the coil packs.
you need the following to get a engine to run
fuel are you getting fuel? what's your fuel pressure? Are the plugs wet?
spark ???
compression I can't see the motor going bad sitting
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Your missing the point. The OP asked a opinion and I gave mine. We don't need to have a debate about parts. If you want to put that crap on your car go for it.
Google
A1 cardone junk or A1 cardone problems or POS A1 cardone parts and read countless problem found with these parts. I'm not the only person that doesn't like these parts.
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All I'm saying is that the quality of the product is sub par. I didn't say anything about how the part is installed. Again take it out of the box and look at it!
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Can you quantify "junk"?
It's simple go to your local parts supplier and pick up a A1 cardone part. Take it out of the box and just look at it. It's a spray painted junk yard part.
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No they are complete junk. They have been around for years but units fail all the time.
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Great work Wedge, keep it up! I can wait to see more.
I must say that's one beautiful oil pan you got there.
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That stuff in made in China, built by the lowest bidder.Like everything they sell.
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google "cxracing reviews" and read. That's all I'm going to say LOL
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Thanks Wedge, I want to see your build. Post a thread please.
Everyone else
I have all the metal to make these mounts but I've been busy with other stuff. If anybody is interested in buying a set of mounts please pm me and I'll get on it. But please be serious about buying a set. I get pretty burn't out an answering questions only to find it's wasting my time.
I don't mean to be a jerk but it starting to be a problem when I have a hundred pm's about build a pan or mounts and then I spend a lot of time answering every question and it goes no where.
I'm sorry , rant off
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Was it missing before the cams? Do you have a valve staying open? Did you put a too big of a shim in and it's causing the valve to stick open. Do a leak down test.
Are the cams timed correctly?
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I used the prc dual pass radiator with a ford Taurus fan. It cools perfect. I really like this swap. Tons of power.
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hey pat thought u said for the rb u just take the tranny mounts oiff the oem tranny then swap them to the rb and then motor mounts u drill a diffrent hole
On the rb20 using the rb20 motor mounts you can use the stock 280z trans mount. The rb25 trans is different.
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That thing is trashed and it's not a LSD. Go get your money back
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Hey Pat,
I'm looking for oil pan and pickup to fit my RB25det that i'm putting into my 260z. I'm aiming for the 300-350Hp mark. I take it you have had no problems with oil starvation with any of your pans? What pan design would you suggest for my application? If shipping to New Zealand isn't cost effective would you sell plans? I am an engineer and can fabricate well, but there is no point in re-inventing the wheel
Cheers
Greg
pm sent
Thanks
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I used the painless fuse box. You can get the at summit racing for pretty cheap.
on the square white connector you need to find these wires below
10. Yellow - Green Charge warning light alternator *******************************************alternator charge light to gauge
11. White AM1, ALT + *********************************************************************** Battery + that supplys the field
12. Black - Yellow to Alternator from engine / gauge fuse ***********************************battery + to battery
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How did you hold the carrier though?
Hold it with your hands or put it in a vise.
so you wanna swap an rb eng? here ya go
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
The wiring for the rb20 is very,very easy. It just takes a little time and knowledge to figure it out. Don't pay someone to connect 9-12 wires . I can't remember how many but I know it wasn't more than 12. Here is a writeup I did. This will get you running and driving.
http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/90784-wiring-guide-for-installing-a-rb20det-into-a-datsun-z/