pat1

July 17, 2011

I don't see how so many people can't read the instructions that come with the Innovate LC-1. It says IN THE INSTRUCTIONS that you MUST ground the sensor ground wire to the same place all the other engine sensors are grounded...OR IT WILL NOT WORK. There are two grounds...one is a sensor ground, the other a power ground. Every LC-1 install that I've fixed, that didn't work (all seven of them, including mine for 8) was a grounding error. Yes, the grounding error can kill the controller. That's what happens when you suck 8 amps of heater current through the .08 amp sensor line.

I know, there was a batch of LC-1s that made it out of the factory with a bad component inside the box. Innovate took them all back, and repaired them all for free.

Anyway, I've run my LC-1 in my car every day for over a year now, with street use for the last four months. No Issues at all, once the grounding issues were taken care of.

Yes, I did read the direction and followed them to a T. I also was on the phone with innovate for over an hour and all they said and I quote " we have have problems with this unit please send it back"

anyway google innovate wideband problems.

July 17, 2011

Innovative sucks.I had one. It lasted for about 5 miles then wouldn't work anymore. I found there website and there forum and read post after post of the same problems. Stay away

I have a Zeitronix ZT-2 and it great. It works everytine, requires no calibration. Warm up takes very little time. Oh yea and it works.

July 10, 2011

buying "the best" is probably not going to make any difference in your speed whatsoever, but it will put you deeper in debt.

It does when you break the the tool and have to wait for the tool truck to show up lol. been there and done that. Or when the crappy tool breaks and causes body harm and sends you to the emergency room. I have also been there. It's just not worth saving a few bucks. Remember you get what you pay for.

July 10, 2011

I work on cars for a living and I only use snap-on tools. Matco don't seem to feel right and I don't think they are the same quality. Some of Marco tools remind me of craftsman tools. But it all depends on how much you want to spend. I have over 50k on tools and growing.

Remember crappy tools= pain ( busted knuckles) and time is money in this business.

July 6, 2011

Those Taurus fans really pull some air. I have one from a 94 Taurus that's a two speed single fan On my 1jz. I only use the low speed and it works great. Be careful those things pull some power. Might need to upgrade the alternator. I know my rb only had a 60amp alternator.

July 4, 2011

I'm getting tons of emails about if I'm still building pans, the answer is yes I am. I can make any pan you wish. I can do the pans from mild to wild. Any thing you want....

here is one for Boris I did a couple months ago. I know I haven't posted to much on this thread but I'll get back to posting on this thread.

This one will hold ~7 QTS with a trap door baffle and a round baffle around the pickup.

Here's one I built for 5thgenluder

I used a stock rb flange and built it from the flange up.

July 3, 2011

It's runnIng great and fast as hell. The torque is awesome. I swapped out the exhaust housing to the turbo from a .81 A/R to .68 a/r and turned it into a low rpm spooling monster. I'm only boosting a low 10-12 psi. I had to get a new boost controller because of the pos greddy ebc took a crap sitting in my tool box lol. I installed a Apexi NEO and leaned it out a bit. I'm still running 10.2 to 1 between 4k to redline. I need to take it to the dyno and tune it. I just bought a set of HKS cams 272 intake and 264 exhaust. As soon as they come in I'll install them and head to the dyno. My goal is 500whp but I still need to get a set of 550 injectors because the 440 will be maxed out at around 450whp

Anyways this thing is a monster. Full spool by 3600-3800 rpm. The cams will change this. The torque is amazing and it pulls like crazy and it's not even tuned.

I was going to do a rb25 or 26 but in glad that I decided on the 1jz. Plus you can get the parts anywhere. And the parts are CHEAP . Alot of the parts swap out from the 2jz and that means the high dollar parts that the high horse power supras guys use interchange. So when the supra guys change their build and sell the parts you can pick them up for almost nothing. Not like the rb's

June 30, 2011

The pyro goes in before the turbo to get the correct reading. Putting it after the turbo would be pointless and would give you a incorrect reading. All the heat is before the turbo.

I know with my diesel that after the turbo it can read as much as 300 degrees difference

June 26, 2011

Whoa quick reply! Thanks I'll have to look into it. I'm pretty sure it's nowhere near 12 inches

I'm running an hks bov venting atmospheric. The Apexi AFC NEO unit has a deceleration air feature ("Dec Air") that lets you compensate for the atmospheric bov. Part of the problem is we haven't been able to set it yet because the unit isn't reading air flow for some reason. It's still a bit of a mystery.

They had an SR with this problem before and it turned out to just be a bad MAF but I know the RB's will stall out with the atmospheric bov. Just have to mess with it some more

I did read on the supra foruns that apexi was having problems with some neos reading the MAF voltages. Call apexi I believe all it needs is a reflash. I'm using a neo on my 1JZ. I like it alot more than my old safc2.

How do you like that rb20 with the 25 turbo? I had a 25 turbo on mine for a little bit. It was fun.

June 26, 2011

I think I read around a 12 inches. I had problems with mine and it was around 7-8 inches.

Are you using the stock blow off valve? If you are not you need to recirculate back to the intake. With a non recirculating Bov when you let off the throttle the air that has been measured by the MAF blows out the Bov and then makes it run rich and will stall the engine.

June 25, 2011

How close do you have the MAF meter from the turbo? If you have it too close your going to have turbulence in the MAF that will cause problems @ Idle

June 16, 2011

Man,I hate to say this but it's trashed. Turn the motor over and inspect the cylinder walls. The head is trashed, I bet the valve guide is busted also. I would take it to a machine shop and get them to inspect the head. The piston is hard to say, I've seen worse and I was able to grind off the ridges on the impact zone. It's possible that the piston might cracked.Inspect it and go from there. Inspect the other valves because if you hit one you might of hit more.

June 15, 2011

you got some bent valves. Time to pull the head

June 11, 2011

On my rb I used the nismo it did the job but I had to put a gauge on it everytime. I know I could of added a gauge but really didn't have the room.. On my 1jz I put a aeromotive With a port for a gauge and it's bad ass. They are almost the same price. The aeromotive looks better IMO.

June 11, 2011

We definitely have much respect for Pat after doing this ourselves.

Thanks Andy

Those motor mount look like Jaguar XJ6 motor mounts 1972-87 I believe. I used them for my rb20 swap. Fit like a glove. I bought another set for my 1jzgte swap but never used them. Now the real question where are they lol