pat1
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Posts posted by pat1
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this is for the supra 1jzgte
here is the ecu pin out
grounds
E1
E2
E01
E02
TE1
TE2
use a DVOM and check for continuity to engine block ground. Do NOT connect to battery YOU WILL smoke it.
M-REL
BATT
+B
BT
IG-sw
must be run to the correct places
BT is switched power
BATT is constant power
+B is switched power
M-REL is a switched ground from the efi relay
IG sw switched power
this where it gets alittle tricky
you need a 30 relay. I like bosch relays because you can trust them
relay pin
85 body ground
30 12v power from battery fused
86 M-REL
87 BT,+B
hooking up the starter
I used the stock datsun starter signal wire.
This is the square connector under the dash of the 1JZ. It has 15 pins. The pins have the following meaning:
1. White - Red Progressive power steering +
2. Black Heater control valve switched to ground
3. Black - Red Switched +12v from fusebox (EFI)
4. Yellow Fuel pump control relay coil
5. Black - Blue Start signal for starter (fat wire)
6. Green Signal for circuit opening relay
7. Black - Red FP signal checkbox from fuel pump relay
8. White - Green Progressive power steering -
9. Blue - Red A/C signal from A/C ECU to engine ECU
10. Black - White Starter signal for NSW (fat wire)
11. Grey IGSW signal from ignition fuse
12. Red - Blue O/D signal fro Cruise control from ECU
13. Red - Green SP2 signal from ECT for cruise control
14. Black Ignition + for ignition coils and injectors (FAT)
15. White - Blue To Fan ECU
The white connector pictured here on the right, is for the main signals to the car. The pin out is:
1. Brown AB (airbag) signal check box
2. Green - Orange ECT Power switch
3. Red - Yellow trip counter signal (white-red)
4. Black L1
5. Green - Yellow Solenoid 2 from ECT to Cruisecontrol
6. Violet Ts signal checkbox (TEMS)
7. Yellow RR- rear ABS speed sensor
8. Black RR+ rear ABS speed sensor
9. Yellow Oil level light switch
10. Light Green- Red Auto gearbox indication "2"
11. Blue Check signal cruise (Tc)
12. Orange ??
13. Grey O/D signal (not sure)
14. Red L2
15. Red - White L3
16. N.C. N.C.
17. Blue - Yellow Rear speed signal for ECT from ABS
18. Black IG- (RPM) ************************************************************************************************ TACH WIRE
19. Red - Yellow ELS signal
20. Red - Black PSEN for ABS
21. Blue - White From tripple hi-low pressure to cooling fan computer
22 Yellow - Red to grey connector pin 25
23. Blue Auto gearbox indication "L
1. N.C.
2. Brown Ground (for exh. temp etc)
3. Yellow +12 v for auto gear indication
4. Green - white Stop signal from footbrake
5. N.C.
6. N.C.
7. Yellow - Green Water temp for dashboard
8. Pink Speed signal
9. N.C.
10. Black - Blue Start signal for circuit opening relay
11. Black Tach signal for combination meter
12. N.C.
13. Green - Black exh. temp sensor CCO check box
14. Red 'P' signal auto gearbox indication
15. White 'N' signal auto gearbox indication
16. Violet 'D' signal auto gearbox
17. N.C.
18. Brown Ground for ECU etc.
19. Grey - Green Check engine light 'W' checkbox
20. Yellow - Blue Exh. temp warning light
21. Yellow - Black
22. Grey - Green Check engine light
23. Yellow - Red / Yellow - Black Oil pressure switch
24. Black - Red Back up lights + 'R' signal
25. Yellow - Red / Yellow - Blue To white rect. connector pin 22
At the fusebox, there is another connector to power the whole engine and ECU. This connector has 12 pins:
1. Black - Yellow +12 v EFI unswitched
2. Black - Orange M-REL EFI main relay
3. light green OPT, water sensor in rad
4. Blue / Blue - Red A/C speed sensor
5. Black - Red +12v EFI switched
6. Black - Red To temp sensor in rad
7. Brown ACMG from ECU to clutch
8. Light Green - Red A/C speed sensor
9. Blue A/C magnetic clutch from relay
10. Yellow - Green Charge warning light alternator *******************************************alternator charge light to gauge
11. White AM1, ALT + *********************************************************************** Battery + that supplys the field
12. Black - Yellow to Alternator from engine / gauge fuse ***********************************battery + to battery
this isn't done just a start
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Pat1 , can you talk about how you did the drive shaft , and wireing , any wiring diagrams
of how to do it ?Sure, no problem
the wiring was easier than the rb20,it had less wires. Mine started up on the first try. I like the 1jz more than the rb20 because it was a map based system. That means no airflow meter. Give me some time and I'll do a write up.
The driveshaft was easy as well. First mount the engine and trans where you want it. Measure from the trans tailshaft to the diff flange and write that measurement down. Mine was right at 25 inches. I took the stock driveshaft to the driveshaft shop and gave them the measurement. They supplied me a brandnew toyota slip yoke. They built me a shaft with new u joints and balanced for 215.00. They had it done in one day.
This was a easy swap but I work on cars for a living and do this for fun. I do all my fabing and welding.
I had a little fun with a AMG SL55 yesterday. Lets say you should of seen the look on that guys face lol.
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Hi from over the water!
I have a floorless 260Z sitting on my drive which is waiting for a 1JZ. Ive been recently reading through lots of threads but this one is by far the best. it isnt full of technical crap or fancy explinations, its just "this is what i did" pure win.
I have a few questions if you can be bothered with, ( your prob too busy out in the beast, i know i would be)also dont like clogging up other peoples threads with crap!
Why did you bother with a crossmember? I know ill need custom mounts but why the crossmember?
How much room is there above the turbo to the bonnet (hood) with your top mount mani? would any top mount work if you didnt go crazy on turbo size?
What work did you do to your JZ before putting it in? ive lined up a 1JZ from an auto soarer (either 92 or 99) both with 100k miles.
Where did you get your fuel cell from? where did you mount the surge tank?
I got loads more but cant be f***ed to type
I wish i had your welding skills.
I don't mind the questions so ask away.
I did the crossmember to make it stronger. The stock frame rails are very thin gauge steel and the motor is very heavy. I think the crossmember makes it a lot stronger.
There is a good bit of room between the motor and the bonnet (5-6 inches) I made the engine sit about 8mm to 10mm off the crossmember and the steering rack.
I used a top mpunt exhaust manifold off ebay. Thats right ebay I did clean it up a bit and add gussets and support brackets.
I did all the normal stuff when the motor was out. All the seals,water pump,tensioner and t-belt,plugs and valve cover gaskets. I did to the top mount and turbo while the engine was out. I found a deal on some HKS cams when the motor swap was completed and running. I just swapped cam with the engine was in the car.
The fuel cell is a 15 gallon RCI fuel. I built a surge tank and installed it next to the fuel cell. I used a carter 12v low pressure fuel pump to fill the surge tank and a Bosch 044 right after the surge tank.
here here's some pics
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Thanks guys.
I did a rb20 swap before this and I wanted a bit more in the torque department. I was look at the rb25 and the 26 but I wasn't happy with the torque figures on the rb25 and the 26 would cost a ton. I was going to bite the bullet and go with the 26 then I was reading up on the 1jz and the 2jz. The parts are more available and the toyota reliability is what it is.
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Cheaper isn't in anyway better. I've had the Toyota ft brakes and a couple months ago I decided to bite the bullet and get off my cheap butt and spend some money on a real set of brakes. I bought the AZC wilwoods and they are awesome. I was just going to go from the non vented ft Toyota calipers to the vented calipers and I said screw it. The stopping power is day and night from the Toyota stuff. I know,I know mabe with a different set of pads they would of been better but I got sick of dealing with the BS. It is the best 1700.00 I have spent on my 280z in 18 years. If you have the money do it you won't regret it.
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Anywhere in the US. Junkyards,forums, and craigslist. I have seen quite a few lately. You just have to search.
I just searched google "usdm 2jzgte for sale" and recieved 25,200 results
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a 205 on a 8.5 wheel would be stretched out bad. It would look like a pizza cutter lol
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No flares. I just rolled the fenders alittle. Looks beautiful. I'll post some pics in a few
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I have the same size on mine. I'm running 245/40/17
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Let's see some pics. These not a lot of s130 build threads.
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You can run a line off the intake or before the t-body. When in BOOST the entire intake system after the turbo is under boost. I have run many boost controllers and It doesnt matter before the t-body or after. But the intercooler piping after the turbo will see boost before the intake.
Now one of my boost controllers take a boost referance @ the turbo and the intake. But thats with a external wastegate.
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The knock control is off? That means that there is no other table/map for the ecu to use when knock is heard from the knock sensors, What's the point to have that built in safety. Man if it was me I would take it back and get it retuned. A nice hot day would make a bad day for you or some crappy fuel that we are getting.
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At Idle in closed loop ~14.7 and cruise in closed loop should be around ~14.0-16.0 for the best fuel ecomony with stock cams.
wot air fuel ratio should be between 11.6 - 12.3:1 If it was my motor I would be running around 11.0-11.2 at the most to deal with any problems that might occur ie amb temp,intake temp,crappy fuel and so on.
12.3 at wot is asking for trouble with advanced timing. Your on the outer limits. One hicuup and your done.
With all the money you have in that swap get it tuned by a experienced tuner. In my area it only costs 400.00-600.00 Then run the @#$% out of it with no worries.
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Here is pic of my work in progress
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I installed some JDM rx7 FD seats
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sorry I messed up
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I would pick the s2000 over the BMW any day. I bought my wife a BMW e46 a few years ago and it was a nightmare. I work on cars for a living and still it was a pain. Broken window regulator, coolant leaks. Oil leaks and all sorts off lights came on . It was a piece of crap and it didn't even have a lot of miles (71k miles)on it. It was a very good looking car . In 14 months I had over 3k in repairs and I did the labor. The last draw was when my wife came home and told me the trans was slipping and we traded it in. I lost over 7500.00 on that German piece of crap. Get a jap car and enjoy.
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stock boost? What's that? LOL
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Good luck getting any reply from MM. Go with the Arizona z cars brakes. I bought them last month and everytime I hit the brakes it puts a smile on my face.
Dave @ Arizona z answers his phone calls and replys to his emails.
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Please excuse my French I meant ShiFter boot, sorry.
Bonk
Bonk that was a good one. I must be in a weird mood but it makes me chuckle the last 4 times I read it. LOL
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Pm returned
Thanks
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Its because of no power windows isn't it...
No,it's the lack of cup holders. Lol
of how to do it ?
Its because of no power windows isn't it...
My 76 280z 1jz build thread
in Toyota L6 Forum
Posted
I can do it but it's very easy. Anybody that can read a wiring diagram and knows how to use a DVOM can wire this up.
A 2jz is going to be a bit different. The pins are going to be in a different place. Some of the supra guys use the 2jz ecu on the 1jz. The 1jz have bad capacitors. I replaced mine for about $3.00.