310z

Well, I purcased a set of 16x8 BBS wheels after reading your info. They will come with a set of 225-50-16. They will be one inch in diamiter larger than the 225-50-15 I have. This will be close on front lower valence clearence. I did clearence work on the rear fender lips prior to body and paint. I dont think there will be much of an issue there. With stock struts, the rears will be close. I am thinking of going to a 225-45-16 so I dont change the overall tire size from the 225-50-15 that I know fit.

I am not 100% sure but 280zx turbos had external oil coolers. They had a adapter that looks like the one Old Slow posted above. That should get you pointed in the right direction for your AN fittings. The book was written prior to this part being made from Nissan.

The wheels look great. The tire size combo is perfect looking on a Z. I am in the market for wheels and you just installed the exact wheel and tire size I am considering. When the front wheels are turned is there any clearence issues near the lower valence. Also will the rear wheels tuck up in the wheelwell without clearence issues.

Have you considered using Zoop Seal. I have used it on all my polished parts and I am happy so far. It is a ceramic coating that states it is good for three years minumum. It is kind of spendy but I have read some of your posts and you have mentioned that you have nice wheels, probally worth it. You can find them on line and the lowest price I have found is at Summet.

I dont know about the two of you but when Ive rolled my bare metal restoration 240z around on the BFG-KD for the last year in the shop they corner great. I guess there are three of us waiting to see how they work.

I think I would go with the Brodix. They have a good reputation, there is only 5cc difference and you have plenty of cubic inches under those heads to keep the intake volume moving at a good speed for proper mixture. The best part is you will save $250.

Now that I know that you are talking about a boat things are different. You need smaller intake runners for the low rpm. I80 cc like I have would work great. There is a much bigger issue here because this is going in a boat. The type of cooling system to be used needs to be considered. If you are using lake water you can not use aluminum heads. Electrolisis will eat them up and cause hot spots in the chambers, pre detonation ultmatly distroying the heads. The dirtier the water you run the faster it will happen. If you are running in Lake Tahoe you would probally be ok but anywhere else and the motor will distroy it's self. So the options are cast iron or get a closed cooling system. After I built the motor in my boat using the iron eagles I found out about the closed cooling system. Then I could have used the aluminum heads. The cooling system was one of the best devices I put on my boat. The block has anti-freez in it like a car. Winterizing has become a minor chore and the motor runs a constant temp. But there is more. Cam choice is criticle in a boat. If you are running water injected headers, water can get sucked back into the cylender through the exaust valve if the cam loab center angle is to large thus hydr-locking the motor. Information about boats is hearder to come by but its out there, check some hot boat sites. The more research you do the more money you will save in the long run and enjoy the boat for a longer time. I have an old classic Century Resorter, direct drive with the 388. It is a total sleeper. It pulls a skiier out of the water better than all the new competion ski boats and has a top end of 50 mph on gps at a 5000 ft elevation. My friend that I boat with has a old classic V-drive drag boat with a blown 440 which he built. Both our boats run flawlessly. You dont want to have trouble on the water. It's hard to walk for help. I am no expert on boat motors but I have a little experence with them. Of course you know that for low end toqure nothing beats a big block.

I have run Dart Iron Eagle heads 180 cc runners on a 388 The bowl and intake were heavly reworked for a heavy boat that runs up to 5500. They work great and heve for years now. The engine builder usually used 220 cc intake runners for race engines turning 7000. I called Dart and asked them what they recomended for the purpose I needed and Dart recomended the 180 cc. Dart was right, they work great for the low rpm I use them at. But if I was building a 406 to go in a light Z car, I would go with aluminum heads to save weight and they can disapate heat better than cast iron, 220 or larger intake runner with at least 2.02 intake valves all roller please. Place a cam that will provide max hp at 5500 to 5800 rpm. Something like 280/280 on a 106 LCA. The toqure will come on a little later in the rpm range and save some rubber on your tires. There is a great easy to read book with dyno charts called How to Build Max Performance Chevy Small Blocks on a Budget by David Vizard.

Looks OK, but does not flow with the rest of the design as others have mentioned. The bottom two photo look great. The bottom one looks like it flows the best with the rest of the G-nose design.