310z

The wheels look great. They fit just right. The car as a package looks great although it is missing the rear bumper.

Well you state truck tire. You do not give hints to use, only which brand. I have run BFG Long trails and I could not get them off the truck fast enough when there was anything other than sun shine. I then went to Pirelli scorpean AT. They worked great in all conditions: Snow, ice, wet, dry, offroad. Then at 22000 miles they were gone. Next Yokohama Geolander A/T+2 again great in all conditions. I ran them for 34000 miles and cupping occured and then became noisey. There was about 10000 miles left in tred depth. Next Michelins A/T the old style. Not such an agressive looking tire but worked as well as the Pirellis and Yokohamas except the Michlins road much better and were quiet. I had about 40000 miles and the tred was only half gone. I gave them away and they are still being used. The new Michelin A/T looks as if it belongs on a car so I would not buy another set. I live in snow country and never go into winter with half worn tires, So what next. I am on my second winter with a set of BFG A/T. They are great at everything. They are: quiet, ride nice, look good, work great in snow and with ledgenary off road performance how could you go wrong. They will also hang on to asphalt when required, though they will heat check at the edges. I do know that this is not what A/T tires are for but long trips on mounatin roads can be fun in anything.

I am not much of a photographer but here is a picture of the BBS wheel in natural light. The polished part of the BBS wheels is coated with Zoop Seal. The car is rolling around on a set of Enkei - 92, 15x7-0 offset. The Enkei's were polished. The centers bead blasted and all coated with Zoop Seal. Running 225-50-15 BFG G-force T/A. I was going to run the enkei's as I have had them since the late 1980 as I had just refinished them. But then I found the BBS's. I will not be getting pictures of the car on the ground with the BBS's until spring after some strut tower clearencing work is done and a L6 is under the hood.

V8INtheZ, I finally got the picture thing going. In this picture you may notice there are no nug nuts. The tire is touching the spring perch and the wheel is just sitting on the studs. Prior to rebuilding the wheels, I got a hold of BBS, USA. They did a little reasearch via searel numbers and found that the wheels had not been produced for 22 years and were never imported into the USA. The goal is old school. I think the wheels came out nice.

A little closer view of the wheel.

Well I guess it worked although I forgot some information. The 16x8-0 offset wheels weight 13.5 lbs. and are fitted with 225-50-16 Bridgstones. I put $500.00 in the cost of: repolishing the hoops, new wheel seals, new hardware, and paint, but I feel they came out nice.

16x8-0 offset BBS 3 piece magneisum mesh. Centers are designed for a Ford Festiva Europien race car. Centers are redrilled to fit 4 lug Z car. Wheels were not imported into America by BBS. I disasembled the wheels and spent 13.5 hr. bead blasting the centers. Then I sealed the magnisum with zinc chromate. Painted the centers with Wurth silver wheel paint and clear. Wurth silver is the original paint used at the BBS factory. I had the outer hoops repolished and then reassembled with all new hardware toqureing to spec. I am attempting to post a picture but I have never done that and I am not having much luck. I will see if this works

http://www.rims-n-tires.com/rt_specs.jsp This is a site I found intresting to work with for tire and wheel combos.

I do have pictures but I was wanting to wait until the car is finished to post any pictures. I am also not very good with computers and I don't know how to post photos but I will figure it out. But the early era BBS wheels with magneisum centers, completly re-done at 13.5 lb look great.

http://www.rims-n-tires.com/rt_specs.jsp This is a site I found that was intresting to work with on tire and wheel size.

I have a set of 3 piece BBS 16x8 with 0 off set running 225-50-16 Bridgstones. The front fenders are rolled and the clearence issues are on the lower valence when turning the wheel. The tires also hit the strut towers. 1/4 in. spacers and clearence work on the strut towers is required. On the rear I removed about 1/4 in. of the inner lip. The rear tire hit the strut tower also. A 1/4 in. spacer gave 1/8 in. clearence at the strut tower, I will be doing some clearence work on the rear strut tower also. I have read were a lot of people have no clearence issues with 16x8 and 225-50-16. I realize that not all tires are the same size, even if the numbers state they are the same. I am glad I did my clearence work prior to body work and paint. I have left the appearence of the wheel wells looking stock but a lot of work went into getting those wheels to fit my 1972 240z

I purchased a set about a year and a half ago may be two. There is weave seperation but not as bad as rahail240 pictires show. I did paint the inside black and it is not noticeable at all. I have not finished putting my car togather so the bumpers are not on the car and I cant talk about fit. However I was disappointed in the rigitity of the product. My only experence with carbon fiber parts had been with motor cycle parts like skid plates and heat shields. The motor cycle parts were thick and solid. The bumpers are thin and flimsy like a wet noodle. I think when mounted they will work. I kept them and will be installing them over winter.

My thoughts are simular to Grumpyvette. The cam is not the only issue. To run either of those cams and the RPM you mention, you need heads with an intake volume of 220 to 240cc. Then either of those cams will come to life.

Well I have a friend that has 3 new pair, although he is not intrested in getting rid of them. However we realize the rareity of the plexiglass part. A few friends have talked of reproducing the lens through a vacume process using originals as a mold. If this ever happens I will let you know.

I got to say I like the looks of those. Old school classic looks in a modern seat that reclines.

SirLaughsALot, You need to go out to Pettersen Motorworks, on Hwy 32 on the north west side of town. Steve's shop is behind his brothers called Pettersen Motor Sports. Steve lives early era Z car's, that is all his shop is about. You may also get a glemps of my Z that I have over $40000 in although it is not yet finished.

Well everyone has their own idea of what a sports car is. My Idea will always be a small, light, agile, two seater, like a Z. There are amazing cars available today. With massive horse power ratings in an attempt to off set the huge weight they need to move and great handling. Look at the size and weight of a modern 911, they have definatly grown. Did that size come with the fatting of America or just government regulations? As for the for door pocket rockets, they are awsome. Now I am old, but when I was young, kids did not strive to drive a four door. Although I did almost buy a WRX so I had a back seat to put my kids car seats.

As I stated before I am no expert. I used a large highly recomended speed/race shop in Reno NV about 15 yr. ago and everything that could go wrong with that engine did. They were not Z experts. They were American V-8 experts. I have spent years reasearching what I wanted in a Z and in findeing a builder that has a passion for the Z car. Such a passion that Mr. K himself would occaissional have dinner with him and more reciently Bob Sharp has called attempting to buy classic race parts. The will to want to build a Z motor without short cuts is what is needed. I have been buying parts for a couple years now and do not rember the exact difference in pistons. Although I think the amount above the top ring is greater on the truck piston. Thus allowing more room to machine the piston to adjust compression ratio. I have chosen to use Webers as I want a classic preformance restoration and to be naturally asperated. I bought the Webers 15 yr. ago and love them. There is nothing like the sound a set of tripples makes. There are some Utube examples of the sound. Type in (3100 Stroker) and a red Z does some excelleration tests. However there are better preformance options, such as injection. I am not intrested in that type of set up so I cant lend any advise.

Aziza, you read it wrong. Wilson picked it up. I said four seats not four doors. If a car has four seats it is a family car, not a sports car. There are some family cars out there with amazing preformance. I saw a post you put up a while ago with pictures of your awsome looking Z. Then you also had pictures of a friends new BMW 325. The BMW is a beatiful car that preforms well, but next to your Z. It looked like a basic every day commuter clone. Granted it was not a M-3. But even an M-3 has four seats.

Aziza, of course the gold on the BMW does not look as good as on the Z. It's on a four seat family sadan, not a sports car.

It sounds like you have done a bit of reasearch and you most likly will do more. What I have found out, is that it is best to have a expert Nissan engine builder at hand. I am not an expert. So my friend that is an expert Nissan engine builder is building mine. Of course the desired outcome needs to be considered, street/race. I can tell you what mine will have; I can't rember the block but I think it is a F-54, Vo7 crank, 240z 9 mm. rods, Nissan Hard Body Truck 89 mm. pistons #12010-86G20 that need to be machined according to compression ratio, Nissan piston rings #12033-86G00, Nissan comp head gasket #11044-91MM1, Head is an E-88 with enlarged seats and valves with port work, custom grind cam, TWM intake with tripple Webers. My understanding of this motor is to find the best machine shop possible, hopfully one that has done work on a 3100cc before. The ballance job is critical. My parts went to the machine shop 3 days ago.

The wheels look great. Fit may be an issue. May come down to the exact tire you run. With the front wheels turned the clearence at the lower valence could be an issue. With coil overs, those rears just might fit.

I have not had the rubbing issue yet. But my wheels are not on the car. I have only read that people have problems with specific tires. Although tires have the same size printed on them, they vary by brand. The Tire Rack has the best compairisons in actual tire size. You have to hunt and peck by individual tire but the information is there. The guy building my car builds 240Z for a living, and it is his passion. He states that the perfect wheel tire combo will fit with a 16x8 but it is close. Watanabe Wheels gave me the same information and recomended Dunlop or Bridgestone tires as they are typically smaller than others.

Janaka, Thanks for the reassurance on the fit. May be I won't have to put the 225-50-16 on my mini van. I just returned from the Mt. Shasta Roadster show. It was smaller than what I had heard it has been in the past, but beatiful cars in a beatiful setting with great people.

Ya I agree. I most likley I will be replacing the tires with 225-45-16 but I will trial fit the 225-50-16 first. Dum-Bass says they fit But I do I want to stay with a 24 in. dia. tire. When I can get to the shop I will do some test fitting, now that my wheels have arrived. The wheels were not in as good of condition as I would have hoped, as one of the wheels leaked air at the seam were the three pieces come togather. This is not uncommon for old three piece wheels but it was information not disclosed to me when buying. Other wise they looked great for old wheels.