jack46

The R 180 is not strong you should creme it LONG before any driveshaft problems. I think like others the setup is out of alignment and the weld was not up to snuff. I broke a CV axle and blew a rear end out of my 260 with juice and the driveshaft was reused both times. It put the front end a foot in the air and held then finally broke the CV in a 1.44 60 foot launch. BTW that setup was done in 1987 so it has many engine with a total of 2 DS. The second was needed when I put an LT1 in it in 2003 Good luck it is worth the trouble because once they are right they are a fun ride!

I agree on turbos they are CHEAP like $500 for pair delivered. I may go Master Power T70's but these aren't falling off as you said but longevity will likely be a problem. A few at track say it looks like it is being pulled by a cable it just goes down the track with little movement. Problem is that was ~2800 launch if I bow to 3400 I carry the front and have to get out...so its a fine line I want to change from 4.11 to 3.70 but not sure if that will hurt it. Problem now is first gear lasts a LONG time like 1.5 seconds then I shift and immediately (.3 sec) into drive... and then it is hang on for the ride. There is more in the setup, I had hoped to get 5.99 but Friday nite I think I lost the opti went 6.35 at 106 and 10.5 at 95 coasting it died late in 1/8. So may be a while before I can go again. I will likely add a 2 step and clean some stuff up. It is a work in progress I live near a 1/4 mle track so want to go 9.9 to be in single digit club. I don't plan to hold in it, just hold maybe 120 after 1/8 should get me there Amazing part is the inlet air temps are low that night they were ~85 on a 55 degree nite friday was hot and emps hit 91 f so meth does help. I shoot dual M7 an M10 and ~73% of 93 lb injectors so she is starting to make some power. I am still changing tune friday was best tune and then of course it seems the opti went.... Thanks Jack

Thanks it is a fun ride The easiest way is to link pictures on LS forum http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/album.php?albumid=14954 Thnks Jack

I may have lost one in my turbo Z. I went to the track and it stsrtd HARD.I got it to run and it was not good then went really bad seems like itis running on 3 or 4 cylinders... I hate this recurring problem....

Here is a video of my LT1 Z. It has a 9" t400 and twin Ebay T 70's. I was hopin to get it to 5.99 and on second trip off trailer it went 6.11 at 114.97. So it is close and I think I will get there with tweaking the tune and getting it setup. I am footbrake and the tune isn't right yet last night I think my opti took a dump. I think I will add a 2 step when i change the opti

hahahah I suppose it does. I am anxious to finally start it over the holidays.

A friend's brother has AFR LT4 the big ones and he matches the power of stock iron with 2.02/1.6 valves on a twin turbo running the same boost. Better parts don't always make more power...They are both running ~230 and .570" lift solid cams.

It has to be clogged heck even if you have a BBody LT1 cam it would do better than that. I remember seeing that car and it was healthy just idling so I am voting for blockage on the exhaust side. Good luck PS I put down ~450RWHP with a small cam with iron heads in an 8.5:1 LT1 with 9 psi.

Here is my 75 showing some progress I hope to fire it up around Christmas

That is the worst downside and true IMO. It is a way to hook but like any cheap solution it is not the best. If you are willing to not drive in the rain, and not annoyed by the tires squalling when you do a slow turn go for it. Look at it this way I have a twin turbo drag Z with a Ford 9 full spool! What is the difference betweeen a full spool and welded center chunk? I would NOT daily drive a full spool or welded in the RAIN other than that I have and would drive it. You won't get all to agree for or against read peoples opinions and decide if you can accept the downside. Good luck

There are many good drag calculators on line given et, mph, weight etc. I suggest if you want an estimate of what performance to expect go to one of the following http://www.stealth316.com/2-calc-hp-et-mph.htm http://www.wallaceracing.com/et-hp-mph.php http://www.dsm.org/tools/calchp.htm http://robrobinette.com/et.htm Good luck with the dyno

I did a rearmount Buick Roadmaster with an LT1 used a stock cam (191/196 .421/.431) with stock iron heads and it does well. It has a T70 with .84 hot and on street tires it did 13.1 @112 with a 2.1 60. I had to feather a long way, given the car is 4400lbs that is ~400 RWHP so small cams and stock heads are quite capable. I will be running it again with ceramic coated manifolds and expect to do alot better with slicks. Stick will hurt the spool but when it hits it will be one hell of a kick in the seat. Look forward to seeing more. My Z will have twin 60-1 (knock offs for now) and I expect to run ~6 in the 1/8th but likely will need juice to get it to spool.

Are you sure you have a big enough turbo? What size is that monster? I am using two 60-1 on an LT1 build. They will peek out the hood the headers just got ceramic coated today so hoping to get progres in a couple weeks. What hp are you shooting for?

Here are the seats and other stuff. The shifter will be a B&M

Here is a few shots of the body