jack46

Well anything over ~135 MPH I feel is suspect unless they have ALOT more than stock HP My point exactly most have just a guess, but post it as fact. If you read this thread you will find at least one unbelieveable feat with a 260 Z. I'm sure it FEELS like it can, but I bet it won't not with only 300 RWHP. From what many have repeatedly posted it takes ALOT of hp for a Z to reach higher MPH. TonyD for one has posted many times the physics of the feat and what hp is needed. The boasts made in this thread came no where near the required HP for the MPH they claimed. That isn't an "I think, I feel, or I believe" that is from physics. But I still believe there are many entertaining posts contained in this thread.

Even reading a few tells me too many people believe a Z can go fast. Always interesting to read top speed boasts definately worse than any fisherman

that will make a good system good luck

I suggest you consider LT1. The tuning setup is reasonable. In fact you can use a TPI distributer and make it an 'opti' and run straight fuel injection. It sounds weird but works like a champ. A wiring harness for LT1 can be had with ECM ~150 and tuner software and datalogging will be <$200 It allows more control over the setup. The same software can also program a TPI it is Tunercats Great product and guy as well

I found the exerp I posted here http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=937176 I haven't read the entire thread, but seems to be a gold mine for facts on Methanol injection. I have read many 'I thinks', but this thread seems to have some facts to back up the 'I thinks'. Since pistons' cost more than a good methanol injection system, and changing pistons is a job I hate to do, I want to add as much margin as possible. Power is good, but power with great reliability is the best!

I didn't see your reply you must have answered literally at the same time I wrote. I want larger 227 but $$ are tight now sooo What kind of HP you making? A friend had on a 350 with 230/242 (306) makes ~625 RWHP with the same stock (modified) LT1 heads that I have, but he also used ~125 NOS I will be an LT1 EFI. All we run are LT1 one is a hybrid ie old style 400 with modified timing chain cover using an opti spark with EFI intake, and a solid cam with LT1 front on it. Makes for a nice setup A couple weeks ago I knew that. It is in TN so I will see it again 8 May. Wheels as I recall are 4.5" offset, has 10.5" W x 31" tire, bolt pattern is Chevy. I am drawing a blank on other I ordered the Mosers like Dec 07 so all forgotten now. It is 33 spline full spool 4.11 is all I can remember. And the center dimension also escapes me. I know it was tight to get 4 link and a seat to fit. I had to notch the seat back to allow it to fit. I have room for more tire since the tubs are WIDE--just would take different rim to push tire in some.

Thanks for the help. My idea is to 'start' with the stock heads (in hand) and probably uograde to AFR 227. The heads are machined for larger springs and either way a friend has a machine shop so he can make it right for what I need. Yes the car will likely be on the street to get a burger or such not 'street' driven. It has all lights etc. Again thanks for all the help I expect to buy a cam soon...I am trying to get the car to track this fall and HOPING to hit <6.1 then make adjustments to turbos and heads. Simply put it cost alot to get it out of garage so I will likely have to wait for 'real setup' A related question for car is where to find a adjustable proportional valve for brakes. I think I will have stock (maybe Toyota front) and rear has S-10.

Thanks the cage is in place I did it first. I have slacked or it would be done. I will have top mount headers I bought them this week those are similiar but from a friends firebird Turbos will likely be 60-1 they will be responsive. I used one and love it soo those on there are 57 trim with 70 compressor to get to 5's I need ~650

Nevermind this is not going where I wanted. Thanks for the help I found the answer already the following is what I was trying to find and already believed is true. What is Water/Methanol Injection? Water Injection or Water Methanol Injection, is a process by which a mixture or water and Methanol are injected into the fuel/air mixture on the way to the combustion chamber. Water/Methanol Injection provides "Chemical Intercooling" inside the cylinder. By injecting water and methanol in a finely atomized spray, the water is able to evaporate under the high temps of a firing cylinder, and when the water evaporates, it takes heat with it. The methanol also has a cooling and octane boosting effect as it burns. How does water/methanol injection allow your engine to produce more power? The production of more power by a water/meth injected engine is not a by-product of the water/meth mixture alone. You must tune for it to get the most out of it. The evaporative effects of the water/meth mixture, plus the octane boost, allows you to run more advanced timing, and boost, thus increasing power. Methanol having the octane boosting effect, you can adjust your AFR's with tuning, and be able to run the same AFR as a pump gas tune with less fuel added to the fuel map of your engine managment. When the system is spraying, methanol is making up for the fuel that gets taken away during the tuning process. You end up with about same 12.5:1 or so AFR with less pump gas added, you also increase knock resistance, and due to the octane boosting effect, you can add timing and boost to make more power safely.

Yes the car does run fine at 9 psi. I tune it and get mild timing, but what I want to do is to increase my margin of safety while getting more from the boost. I presently make ~400 RWHP, but with pump gas my timing is mild. If I could run more timing that same boost point probably will yeild 425+ and be safer. This for a modest investment while avoiding the cost per gallon of 93 while adding a $1.50 gallon of window cleaner, that is what I am looking to discuss. I have run 11 psi no problem BUT I want to look into running higher AFR and more timing therefore, making more power for a given point. I guess I worded it poorly I am trying to squeeze more from the setup not asking will my setup work, I know it does. Also this is a test for my other system which will run higher boost, since it is a built engine cheaper to experiment on this setup.

96/97 is different it is OBDII 94/95 is OBDI and can be programmed cheaply

Ok here is what I have 377 LT1 4.00 x 3.75 400 Turbo TBD Stall ~3000 8.5 CR Ford 9" Moser 33 spline, full spool 4.11 31 Slicks 10.5" W I will have twin turbos probably 10 psi to debug then 14.7 I plan to on using a solid cam and suspect my range will be 228 @ 114 with .550 lift I will have Delta cut the cam but feel that is roughly where I will be. The heads are iron mild port with 2.02/1.6 and the rockers will be 1.6 The car will be for Drag and my goal is 5.99 in 1/8 which means I will need ~650 RWHP. The car is nearing completion attached are a couple pics

I am considering a progressive Methanol injection system. I understand they are 'effective' by lowering intake and combustion temperatures, increasing effective octane, which allow higher timing, and allow higher AFR's etc. The advertisements are intriguing, and the rationale seems logical, but does anyone have real world experience? I will buy a MAF calibrated unit and add a boost switch to have it progressively spray starting 10% at say 150 AFGS/sec to 100 % at 450 AFGS. The controller has the ability to alter the injection pressure based on the MAF reading, and a boost switch will simply allow me to send the MAF signal once my set point for boost is reached. I am intercooled so my inlet air temperatures are decent, boost is low (9 psi) so on the face it sounds less effective, but since it also should make it safer seems like a good route. It is an LT1 with aluminum, 9:1, with small cam Thanks Jack

I have a 75 280 put 9 inch with S-10 disc in rear, will have either Toyota or stock disc up front. I need a master cylinder and want to locate a proportional valve to even up the braking. Wondered what most do with 9" for brakes, car will be mainly drag car and expect to get good power from my twins so want good brakes. Thanks for any help Jack

Also realised the bracket is cut roughly in half and one bolt for the water pump acts as the 'pivot' point for the new bracket. The other long bolt and spacer I think bolts to the block. I will visit my car this weekend and try to get pics developed if you still need a view Hope this helps, but as aminimum you know it can be done for less than $20

I used an old style bracket. Cost ~$10 and combined with a shortpiece of pipe bracket wasmade in <30 minutes. My car is not here or I would give apic of it. Cleared my260 with ease. Requires an alternator from 87 truck I think it was. Other problem is the belt is only a 5 rib but I haven't had a problem revving it to ~6700 good luck

The oil bypass is not sufficient to 'blow off' the pressure being generated. Since they flow more volume they will build pressure quicker in the same engine. In theory the relief pressure should remain the same. BUT as in your case it is not, I have had a high volume do almost the same on 30 weight. Mine would get to ~80 when cold and be fine once warm. Well that to me says it is FINE when the system is at equilibrium so the problem is simply when cold. Two areas the bypass system and oil weight and type. I am lazy I say go to a lighter oil. also what oil filter are you using? Also post oil in there now outside temperature or engine temp at startup etc. Im sure Grump will have a detailed answer soon. I agree wait for explanation from Grumpy before driving it. Good luck

Tere are basically three main variants of LT1: The Impala, Camaro and Corvette. The Impala/Caprice/buick/Caddy were all iron headed and had ~260 RWHP. The Camaro was aluminum headed and had ~285 RWHP. Finally the Corvette had 300 RWHP higher mainly because of better intrake and exhaust. Here is a good sitre for some LT1 information LT1 rebuild LT1's are getting reasonable now and with harness and electronic overdrive make a nice transplant combination. Good luck

Yes Edge is not cheap but quality NEVER is. I just receieved mine from them. Has a 2.6 STR and looking forward to getting it in and to track next weekend.

I had a T350 in my 260 for years without a problem I had 3.45 gear which helped (BMW dif). Anyway I would check all the u joints on halfshaft, driveshaft, and all differential attachments. I had additional side braces on mine and found they moved at higher speeds. Found it by painting the area then saw places of wear. The problem will likely take time to find but it will be worth it. I now have a 4L60E which is the upgraded 700. Good luck PS If you upgrade I would recommend an LT1 and 4L60E but not necessary until this setup wears out IMO

Well sorry you had such trouble. An LT1 should go alot faster than the times you got (I had 1300 stall was supposed to give me 2500, and did 89.5 mph in 1/8 with a 224/232 cam). Look at it this way you got the worst out of the way. Is the engine an iron headed LT1? At a minimum you can reprogram the ECU to fix your shift points, add pressure to transmission to improve firmness, and a dew other minor changes will make a huge difference. Email me I might e able to help you some off line

Thanks for info. The plan is presently to go back to track and see how it does in 60's. Then determine if I need a change to larger tire--I suspect I will or hoping anyway Thanks again

EXCELLENT times IMO for any Z especially an LT1. Mine is esentially one step smaller ~846 with stock aluminum heads. From times I would guess you are ~370 RWHP. While on subject what are you using for driveshaft? I have one that is 'out of round' need to replace and want stouter u joints on rear. I just ordered a stall and expect to get ~1.6 sixties so I know I need to correct my driveshaft before next trip to track. The one from JTR seems reasonable at $55 for rear flange. Anyone know what number u joint it uses? Thanks I searched, but didn't see a precision number I could cross. Don't mean to high jack your thread. PS Edit The joint is a 369, then depending on the driveshaft you use determines if you use a 'split' u joint. Great unit u joint is quite stout.

What were your 60 foot times and ET's? Sounds sweet on launch. What cam are you running in your LT1? I have a 224/232 .508/524 @113

I plan on rolling the lip, also I have a cable that keeps the car from squatting so I might be ok. I have an LT1 with 224/232 and expect/hope to run <1.6 sec 60 foots. I SHOULD have ~340 RWHP. I have run it before, but my torque converter was way tight. I have one being built for it now, I live in south so we run 1/8 here so never went 1/4, that's why I gave 60's since that is apples to apples. Thanks for reply. I was hoping they 'fit' but don't want to go through alot of gyrations to make em fit.