wesmc

DCOE style SK carbs...make a "fluttering" noise on throttle opening, almost a chirp in sequence with the intake stroke. Also, could be a little smoother off idle. I am usually tunning downdrafts, first time doing sidedrafts. Car starts easily and runs very strong otherwise. Carbs sync'd well and good AFR showing on the LM1 when holding throttle steady.

In my (71 240) car I had to "clearance" the inboard side of the booster just slightly. Not much. Used a BFH.

I did, and I did it in stages. I liked the 15/16 MC but didn't feel any improvement with the booster. Changed the drums to discs last. On my street car (bone stock '71) fresh, stock, well adjusted brakes are perfect.

Lol...thanks for rubbin it in Bloz Up

I can't seem to make them work. I go to cut and past a URL and nothing happens. Am I doing it wrong?

Same issue...never could "like" a post.

Thanks guys...I had seen the drilled T/C bushes but didn't know why that was done. I should have lurked more and had that issue on my radar.

btw- my tension arms did not look bad but with my 15x10 wheels they flexed enough to wrinkle a fender. The wheel was able to shift over an inch in the wheel arch with all the old, worn out rubber stuff in there.

Thanks guys.....Energy it is. Can't wait to start pressing the new stuff together. I'll have a new (to me) CLSD, new rear discs, and new bushings. She should track like a totally different car.

They are on ebay for as low as one dollar right now.

Time for every bushing I can find to be replaced. Big kits on fleabay for under 200 bucks. Any recommendations on brands or another source?

Thanks...just ordered. Looking forward to not having to modulate so much.

I just put the huge 2+2 280z booster in my car and went out to the track, made exactly zero difference in braking, as mentioned above. IMHO the booster swap is worthless. I then put the 15/16" MC on the car because I am moving to rear disc. Even on stock calipers and pads braking was improved. I expected a big difference in pedal travel but that didn't happen. I wanted go through each step one at a time to see where the big differences were. I have a set of brackets being made up to place 280zx calipers on the rear like guys used to sell here. I like the idea of keeping the park brake (I also have a street 240 these are going on) and keeping the car "all Z." If anyone is interested pm me.

Mine is now a dedicated track car, I have a 3.9 WRX STI CLSD ready to drop in but I'm wondering if it is better to use the Subie diff or weld the open diff? I have never driven a car with a welded diff but more than one guy has said that on a track car a welded diff is preferable. So welded vs CLSD?

John- Are you still doing the stubs for these? I've been off here for a long time.

K....here's what I got. Fronts 15x10 with 5 inch backspace fit the front with no mods the rears will hit on the outside when the suspension is compressed, I went for the big fender roll just to see if I could roll it enough and the passenger side quarter panel had bondo in the lip...cracked like crazy. So I am going to flare it and let the rules Nazis have at me. Ordered the flares last week

K....I don't think I can roll anywhere near 1.5 inches into my fenders. Just a WAG but I'm thinking I could roll in half of that.

Thanks 5.0... So my tire will be 21mm thinner than yours but no shorter. I would have 3/4 inch less backspace which is 19mm. Looks like I will be almost exactly where you are on the inside. So as I read it I will not quite make it on the outside with out a flare. I have the eastwood roller but I dunno how much "roll" I can get into the Z. For our series rolling is legal, flaring is not.

Doing some searching here I think I have my answer but would love if someone can verify.... I would like to run a 23.5x10x15 on the track car (1971 240z.) There are tons of wheel options at 8 and 10 inches (I would love to run 9's but there are few options there.) From reading here the most backspace I can run is 4.5 inches on my basically stock suspension. From what others post it would SEEM to me that I would need 5 inches of backspace. I can aggressively roll the fenders but I can't flare it. Anyone have experience with this? (All of this is because I run the car under more than one sanctioning body, I am trying to be legal and competitive in both.)